OK time for some humble pie.
I was wrong.
G91 will still affect the operation after the DoOEMButton (1010) line. That line does take care of the next move but not after that.
I just went out to the shed and tested it with G91 in effect and it does screw it up.
I will now alter my code to include a G90 call at the beginning. Even though I never use G91 it is best to cover all bases.
Greg
Greg,
I eat humble pie all the time. It's become a staple.I found the solution to checking mode. Stick this at the beginning of the script, with or without the message.
MoveMode = GetOEMLED(49)
If MoveMode <> 0 Then
Code "G90"
Code "(Mode was incremental)"
End If
And to reset to mode at the end, add....
If MoveMode <> 0 Then
Code "G91"
Code "(resetting incremental mode)"
End If
Seems to work like a charm.
Thanks for the help Bob
Bob
I have rewritten my Zero Macro to cover the G90 G91 issue. This should alleviate some of the issues people were occasionally having by being in G91.
It can be found at this post, http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=257
Greg
I thought I would just put this in
I made mine so you can just hook the clips to it and wen I went into my shop
I had a idea I got a old striped torx screw driver
cut off both ends with a hack saw
chucked it up in the lathe in my 4 jaw chuck got it centered and turned the handle down to 0.750
then unscrewed the chuck stuck it threw the back and cleaned up the other end did not cost any thing and was fun and fast man that stuff turns nice
I included a picture I think this will work for me for finding
the edge still have to make the one for hight but I am working on it
next step
Been an extremly happy user fo about a year. Here is a enhancementI would like to see.
http://legacywoodworking.com/Videos/...RackPinion.cfm
Legacy has promiced the software for months but not delevered.
Erniebro, Hoss - we need you over here !
I totally agree we need something like this!
I'm sure our local geniuses will come up with something.
I've got the blue screens installed and the probe mode installed. I have the probe wire connected to my pmdx breakout board. I do not have the capacitor installed to debounce(and this may be my problem). Mach 3 has debounce settings in the general config (no idea what to set them to). If I touch the probe wire to the router but the light goes on for the probe. The buttons work for the probe (x,y and z) and if I touch the wire to the bit it is detected and stops moving. The problem I am having is that if I click on Z (or x or y) and let it go it eventually (after 1 to 5 seconds way less than 2 inches) will stop on its own. Is this a debounce problem?
update: I set the probe pin to emulated and used a key on the keyboard and the probe works as expected moving 2" before giving up. Must be a debounce problem. I don't have a .1uf cap handy...I tried a 0.22uf cap and it didn't work it kept the probe light on. I played around with the dbounce settings in the mach config screen but couldn't find a setting that worked properly.
thanks,
Brendin
Last edited by Xnaron; 04-02-2009 at 05:22 PM.
Check if you Mach is in metric? The macro I use wants to move an inch, so if I'm in metric it only moves a mm !
.Originally Posted by Xnaron
The debounce feature in Mach has no effect on the probe input. It previously did in older versions but has not for some time in newer ones. Good update IMO.
You can use a small capacitor. Trouble with a cap is that it slows down Mach seeing the signal.
Try a pullup on the input. That will very often be all it needs to clamp down on noise.
Greg
I found a 0.01uf cap and it works but if I power down the bob and power it up again, without closing mach, the probe light will flash on and off sometimes staying on for a few seconds then go off. It seems to work fine if I power up the bob first and then mach (I have a charge pump enabled) or if I power up the bob just after starting mach but not if I power down bob and power up again with mach still running. The pmdx-122 has pull up resitors built in to the inputs.
Yeah its in imperial...had that problem already
.
Not familiar with that BoB but sometimes adding just a little more is all it needs.
Greg
I can put a resistor between the input and +5v to pull it up. Any suggestions on a resistor value to try?
BoB manufacturers don't provide schematics so it is a little guess work.
If you have a decent multimeter measure the current between grnd and input pin.
I would be looking for about 4 or 5 milliamps. Start at say 10k (pin to 5v) and work down till you get that.
That is what I would do but it is not my gear. You must use your own judgement.
Greg
BoB manufacturers don't provide schematics so it is a little guess work.
If you have a decent multimeter measure the current between grnd and input pin.
I would be looking for about 4 or 5 milliamps. Start at say 10k (pin to 5v) and work down till you get that.
That is what I would do but it is not my gear. You must use your own judgement.
Greg
I emailed the manufacturer of the BOB and he got back to me really quickly. I am actually really happy with the service he has always been quick to answer my questions. I had to clarify some points for him on my last email and he should be getting back to me. He suggested perhaps a resistor but wanted more details.
Thanks
Thank you for the great tool. Worked the first time, which was shock for me. I've made several plates and just use alligator clips to attach. This will save a lot of time relocating with manual tool changing.
anyone know how to do this
yes the stationary touch plate combined with moble unit is a nice touch
the video is a must watch...
http://www.legacywoodworking.com/Vid...RackPinion.cfm
I implemented the program perfectly Ernie, thanks so much for making this available.
Last edited by pumelloman; 04-26-2009 at 02:37 AM. Reason: should probably spell your name right eh...
I'm impressed, this worked as described on the first attempt, no problems.
Been using it to set the Z height and finally got around to building the centering tool.
I had scribed the crosshairs more than a month ago on a welding helmet lens protector plate and then set it aside. Last night I decided to look in my junk bins for a short section of tubing to finish the tool.
I ended up using something that is perfect, a crimp ring for 1/2" PEX tubing, I have a whole bag of them hanging on the peg board. They are copper and less than 1" tall. Soldered a wire on the outside. Then I measured the outside diameter with a caliper and marked 1/2 that distance from the center of the crosshairs (on each radial), placed the ring and hot glued around the outside to hold it in place.
(Now I wonder if I could have scribed the crosshairs AFTER gluing the ring to the plate and using the probe to place a mark on the plate after finding the center and then lowering the Z. A square then used to scribe with the mark as the crossing point.)
It works great!!!
Also tried it to touch the rim for setting the height, the tool is .3898 tall, and that is going to work just fine.
I'm using a HobbyCnc Pro board and have not needed capacitors in any of the inputs for limit/homing switches or this probe.
This board has performed very well and was built Jan 1st.
Fatboy
Hello
Very nice tools indeed.
I have a question about the centering tool construction : what method did you use to have the crosshair in the middle of the copper pipe ?
I see one above in Fatboy post. Other methods ?
Thank you .
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