forgot to mention that I am building the Joe's 2006 R2
I have downloaded all the plans and the files I can find. I am having trouble determining how deep the dado's are in the gantry sides and the a carriage. can anyone help?
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forgot to mention that I am building the Joe's 2006 R2
I have read several threads that speak of flex in the gantry sides. I thought oh using 1 piece of 1/2 for the inner gantry side and 3/4 for the outer panel and putting a 1/2 dado in it, then placing a 1/2 inch square steel bar in the dado before sandwhiching the 2 pieces together. Do you think this is over kill or would it add too much weight.
A lot of people attach iron angles diagnoly on both gantry sides to get rid of the flex. That is what I am going to do.
When I built my 06, Ifor the gantry sides I used the 1/2" on the inside with 3/4" on the outside. then I cut a 1/4" pocket on the inside of the 3/4" and put in a 2"x1/4" iron flat bar. Then I bolted the Aluminum angle on the outside in the same orientation as the flat bar. I haven't noticed any flexing of the gantry sides and I have widened my gantry to about 3.5'. I use Keling ~430 oz in. steppers. Works fine for me.
Nate
Sorry I know I have alot of questions.. What is the reason that the X axis long braces are in 2 pieces instead of 1...
Does anyone possibly have a bill of material for the model 2006 that would be willing to share? I have the drawings but, since there is only one view, I'm not sure what the material thickness is. I'm thinking most of it is 3/4".
Thanks
Kilroy
Kilroy,
Attached is the Bill of Materials. There is a color-coded table that will tell you the thickness of each part and then a table with the hardware needed. Hope this helps.
- Spencer
Thanks that helps alot. Does anyone have an idea of how many and what size pieces of HDPE I will need to get my hands on.. And where the best place to get it is .
Here is a picture of the inside of the 3/4 inch piece that I used for my machine.
Nate
Get real friendly with your local commercial plastic supplier because they always have cut-offs and it does not have to be HDPE. They might have something even better for a lesser cost. I have replaced mine with linear bearings and aluminum plates so if you make me a reasonable offer it can be yours. (I have no idea if I can do this here, I did pay for the material and did spend tons of time making it so there is no gain but a even exchange)
That little iron bar you have in the picture will not do anything. You need to get a 1.5 X 1.5 angle.
Would there be any advantage to mounting the angle iron work on the edges, similar to the bearing brackets?
Of course, two grooves would have to routed into the outside gantry pieces.
If 2 1/2 inch pieces of mdf were in the original desing I figures trhat a 3/4 square steel bar between 1 1/2 inch piece and 1 3/4 inch piece would add just a little extra. Not gonna be used at real high speeds but i figured if I adding a little now it would be easier than trying after it was all glued up.
Thanks for the heads up though..
Maybe I should clarify.
I was talking about adding the angle iron to the outside of the gantry. The two thin edges of the angle iron would be in contact with the gantry sides.
I would think that this would provide the most rigidity.
They sell black coated and galvanized pipe will either one work the galvanized is about 15% more expesive and when polising are you just trying to get it smooth or polished. I got a small piece and as I sanded it smooth there are still small pits in it.
HDPE vs UHMW is one better than the other
AJ,
UHMW is "better", but harder to machine 'cause it's difficult to hold.
Check out this thread...
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9557
well actually HDPE is a harder material, if you are looking for stability. UHMW is used mostly for linear bearings such as the ones produced by 80/20 inc. because it is a slicker material.