My G0704 CNC conversion adventure

[Xnaron]

The machine really should be on e VERY solid stand or table for best performance....

I'm going to have to find a permanent spot for it I guess.

[hoss2006]

It looks pretty f in good for your first attempts if you ask me.
Have you checked the actual diameter of the endmill or the runout?
Those could account for the small difference in size from desired.
I have about 60 lbs worth of equipment and coolant inside my stand that helps but the grizzly mobile base isn't great for rigidity, it's for mobility.
Bolt the stand to the floor.
Hoss

[Xnaron]

10 ipm is perfectly fine for what you said you were running xnaron, max on the g0704 (in the 2000-2300 range) about .0025 chipload which will be fine too at running a little slower (1750) for a while.
you'll still be in a good chipload. (.0028)
Hoss

Thanks Hoss. I kept it to ~1750rpm for the pieces I cut today. This really helped keep the temperature down. I was able to keep my hand on it indefinitely after the cutting session which lasted 25min or so.

[Xnaron]

It looks pretty f in good for your first attempts if you ask me.
Have you checked the actual diameter of the endmill or the runout?
Those could account for the small difference in size from desired.
I have about 60 lbs worth of equipment and coolant inside my stand that helps but the grizzly mobile base isn't great for rigidity, it's for mobility.
Bolt the stand to the floor.
Hoss

Thanks. I need to check the runout and the tool diameter...

[Xnaron]

It looks pretty f in good for your first attempts if you ask me.
Have you checked the actual diameter of the endmill or the runout?
Those could account for the small difference in size from desired.
I have about 60 lbs worth of equipment and coolant inside my stand that helps but the grizzly mobile base isn't great for rigidity, it's for mobility.
Bolt the stand to the floor.
Hoss

I just measured the endmill...it measures 0.2525".

I measured the runout and it is about 0.0009" so lets call it 0.001". Dial indicator on bit and rotate it around the difference between max and min is about 0.001"

So to take the error on the tool width I would 0.2525-0.2500= 0.0025" Then because it is the diameter I need to divide it by 2 (0.0025/2=0.00125"). This means it cuts past the profile an extra 0.00125"

Then to factor in the runout I would 0.001"/2= 0.0005" and add it to the 0.00125" to get the total amount I am overcutting. 0.00125" + 0.0005" = 0.00175" [/B]

Now I was supposed to be cutting a circle of 1.5000" and I ended up with 1.4975". If I take 1.5000-1.4975=0.0025" ... 0.0025" cut too far past the profile.

According to runout and bit diameter I can account for 0.00225".. lets call it 0.0023"

0.0025"-0.00175" = 0.00075" This is probably a measurement or something else...pretty much trying to catch a unicorn.

I guess at the very least I should measure my tool diameter and perhaps runout and factor those into the toolpaths if I am looking for uber accuracy.

Too much math late on sunday night

[hoss2006]

I guess at the very least I should measure my tool diameter and perhaps runout and factor those into the toolpaths if I am looking for uber accuracy.

True, I'd factor in the actual tool diameter for sure in vcarve, set it's diameter to .2525, that right there is the difference between what you wanted (1.500) and what you got (1.4975).
That or use an endmill that actually is .2500.
Runout can vary from tool to tool, collet to collet but at least .0002 - .0005 is likely from the spindle itself.
You can try and comp for it but that's splitting hairs and too small for me to bother with.
If you get your part within .001 you should be ecstatic imo.
Hoss

[Whizbang]

Are you using the c10 board and keling motors. if so do you have any pictures of your electronics hooked up?

[Xnaron]

Are you using the c10 board and keling motors. if so do you have any pictures of your electronics hooked up?

I have the C35.

[Xnaron]

True, I'd factor in the actual tool diameter for sure in vcarve, set it's diameter to .2525, that right there is the difference between what you wanted (1.500) and what you got (1.4975).
That or use an endmill that actually is .2500.
Runout can vary from tool to tool, collet to collet but at least .0002 - .0005 is likely from the spindle itself.
You can try and comp for it but that's splitting hairs and too small for me to bother with.
If you get your part within .001 you should be ecstatic imo.
Hoss

Thanks Hoss. I need to pick up some bigger end mills and I'll replace this 1/4" one. I can't remember where I bought it from but it is probably cheap crap.

[Connor]

It looks pretty f in good for your first attempts if you ask me.
Have you checked the actual diameter of the endmill or the runout?
Those could account for the small difference in size from desired.
I have about 60 lbs worth of equipment and coolant inside my stand that helps but the grizzly mobile base isn't great for rigidity, it's for mobility.
Bolt the stand to the floor.
Hoss

Speaking of coolant. What do you use Hoss?

[hoss2006]

Speaking of coolant. What do you use Hoss?

Syn-Kool, still using the same jug from the X2 days.
Shop Info
Hoss

[Connor]

Syn-Kool, still using the same jug from the X2 days.
Shop Info
Hoss

I got some Premier 600 but just read it can stain Aluminum.. Not sure I want to try it now...

[Xnaron]

Syn-Kool, still using the same jug from the X2 days.
Shop Info
Hoss

Having never used coolant I looked at the link you supplied. From what I read it says you mix it with water. There must be something in the coolant that prevents rust? After finished cutting do you need to dry all the metal surfaces to prevent rust? Maybe this is a non-issue. I just don't know any better

[Xnaron]

Can't find any syn-kool locally so far but one supply company is recommending

Masterchem - trim microsol 585

MicroSol® Products - Master Chemical Corporation.

Anyone use this before? Is it comparable to Syn-Kool?

[Connor]

Having never used coolant I looked at the link you supplied. From what I read it says you mix it with water. There must be something in the coolant that prevents rust? After finished cutting do you need to dry all the metal surfaces to prevent rust? Maybe this is a non-issue. I just don't know any better

Yea, It's a little counter-intuitive. I'm more than a little nervous about having "water" around the mill I had a roof leak last year in the shop, so, I sprayed the whole machine down with WD-40 and covered it up with trash bags until the roof was fixed. I've read that some people develop rust under the vise after prolonged use ??? Also little concerned about the water evaporating out of my sump tank and filter tank. What do you use to test the solution to make sure it's were it needs to be?

[hoss2006]

Having never used coolant I looked at the link you supplied. From what I read it says you mix it with water. There must be something in the coolant that prevents rust? After finished cutting do you need to dry all the metal surfaces to prevent rust? Maybe this is a non-issue. I just don't know any better

Syn-Kool
Contains No Class 1 Ozone Depleting Chemicals
One Gallon Makes 33 Gallons
Uses Only .3 CFM Max. at 90 psi
Mix 4 ounces with each gallon of water. For heavy machining: mix 8 ounces or more per gallon.
Ecologically safe - biodegradable - contains no oils or CFC’s
MICRO-DROP™ lubricants are ideal for sawing, milling, drilling, tapping or grinding on ferrous and nonferrous metals.
Contains No Class 1 Ozone Depleting Chemicals
Formula “77” for Tougher Service Mist & Flood Cooling
• With proper maintenance, Syn-Kool has indefinite sump life - does not turn rancid
• For use on all ferrous metals
• Use for drilling and threading, broaching, sawing, grinding, turning and milling as well as CNC machining
• Nontoxic when diluted
• Excellent rust protection; soluble in hard or soft water

Hoss

[hndswthtshdws]

Is there a specific gravity test or something else that can be done to know when to add water?

[Xnaron]

Syn-Kool
[B]Contains No Class 1 Ozone Depleting
• Excellent rust protection; soluble in hard or soft water

Hoss

I missed that tidbit

[rayross11]

Xnaron, where did you buy you panel mount switches and connectors? I checked mcmaster, grainger, allied, and newark. They are either crap or too expensive.
Thanks
Ray

The next component I designed was the front panel mount for the on/off switches, pilot light, and emergency stop button. I am very happy with the way it turned out. It fits perfectly and for once I didn't need to print it many times to get it right. I can use screws in the drive bay to mount it in place. Everything lined up perfectly.

[Xnaron]

Xnaron, where did you buy you panel mount switches and connectors? I checked mcmaster, grainger, allied, and newark. They are either crap or too expensive.
Thanks
Ray

I bought mine at a local store here in town called Princess Auto. Princess Auto