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  1. #41
    Member gio666's Avatar
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    I Had to use internet explorer to check my emails , they didn't show up on the windows office but where stopped and mark as junk in explorer but no in office , there about 100 emails in last 2 weeks as junk



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    i will go through all the emails there right away



  3. #43
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    update on the drivers , the servos power will be adjustable from 20a to 40a



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    George

    I sent a few emails asking if you sent my machine out on Monday of this week like you emailed me. You asked if it was okay to send it as unassembled parts and I told you that would be fine. So you were going to pack up and ship my machine as parts on Monday. Please go ahead and reply here on the forum whether you did that and we'll just avoid the email problems directly.

    Thanks

    Last edited by buckeyes1997; 08-13-2010 at 01:12 PM. Reason: George found my emails


  5. #45
    Member gio666's Avatar
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    Yes I told you i would send out by Monday , that's what i planing to do ,had a little snag this week , but there 4 larger supported machines waiting for people that box them up and send them out to do it as there is no room , I send machines out in order of getting them , and i would get to your earlier because you going to set up all your self, as you got the last 24x machine on the first run of square rail machines and 17th person in line and lots of the 24x wanted them polished ,so your would be ready soon to pack , as there only one 40x machine left maybe .
    But will get your done right away because there nothing to do on the machine , they just have to put in the boxes.
    Same as the 5 people that never completely paid off their machines once they got them , 3 people i never hear from no more and 2 i will have to see , some barely paid even for the aluminum ? as i thought since they waited for me i trusted them too but not same way in return i guess, i know people have hard times and even some of the machines people pay monthly on them , but would never think of ever posting there emails or disrespect them by doing so



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    George

    I understand. All I was looking for was a response to an email about why you didnt do what you told me you were going to do. That is all I wanted. When you told me it ships monday I cancelled plans to go out of town for the weekend to work on my machine so naturally when you dont respond to emails and then I come to find out that for whatever reason you didnt ship it NOR send me a note to say that you didnt get it out.......I'm disappointed.

    I think your machines are quality work and I ultimately want the machine but its going on 3 months and we all get impatient.

    Also, I paid in full for my machine via paypal the same day I said I wanted it. I owe nothing and am waiting for something I paid for months ago.

    Matt



    UPDATE: George has emailed me and we've discussed the status. He assures me he's working as fast as he can and things will be shipping soon. For the time being I am fine with that and cant wait to get my machine. I feel a little better now.

    Last edited by buckeyes1997; 08-13-2010 at 01:15 PM.


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    Quote Originally Posted by gio666 View Post
    I send machines out in order of getting them
    First come first serve. Okay, fair enough as a policy.

    But....
    honestly George, if a promised shipping date is missed it shouldn't be the customers job to track you down for an explanation. Like Buckeyes I've paid in full and am waiting patiently. Or at least paid in full minus shipping, taxes, handling and insurance which I have no way of calculating exactly. The wait itself wasn't completely unexpected. Waiting for a parcel you think is on the road only adds frustration..

    Same as the 5 people that never completely paid off their machines once they got them , 3 people i never hear from no more and 2 i will have to see ,
    Demand payment in full before shipping. Nothing unfair about it.

    Anyone who says "It only goes together one way" has no imagination.


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  10. #50
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    polished table is scratched already, haha.


    so i got my guitar jig working nicely. i need to put in a few threaded inserts and more bolts to secure it to the machine, but it seems to have worked perfect. forgot the camera.. again. will take pics tomorrow.

    i am using these cool lee valley cam clamps that sit in a 3/4" hole. just drill a hole anywhere on the table and you got a clamp. i have 2 positioned to clamp the guitar body, and one that locks in a rough blank for surfacing. holds very well. they only sit 1/4" above the table so they dont interfere with cutting.


    so, i cut some wood on the jig. specifically i surfaced a poplar guitar body blank, and a mahogany one.

    i tested a few different speeds and came up with -

    18000rpm, 1.25" bit, 450 ipm. works, but leaves a rough surface and can chip out edges.

    18000rpm, 1.25" bit, 200ipm. works very well. was blasting through poplar at .125" depth and full cutter width.

    WEAR EYE PROTECTION! man this thing can throw wood chips.

    at certain spots in the surfacing i got a "bounce" in the tool. you can see a set of bounc marks in the surface. nothing serious, maybe .002" depth. the table was not properly secured, so i dont know yet if it was the table bouncing, or the head.

    i also cut a slot in the mdf table with a dull 1/2" cutter at 100ipm and 1/4" depth. it chattered alot and left a bad finish. i think this was partly because of the table not being secure, partly cause the tool has a 2" flute and isnt rigid, and partly because is was really dull. i didnt want to use any new tools til i knew it wasnt going to crash into something

    all in all, a very good start methinks.



  11. #51
    Member gio666's Avatar
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    NO the table top is not polished , just get shinny with scotch bright pad



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    so when i cut a big rectangle pocket in my mdf table to fit one of my pvc jig parts, i found that the jig didnt fit. the pvc part was made on my novakon, the pocket cut on the router. i measured the jig, and it was dead on size. i measured the pocket and it was. .02" undersize. .01" on each side is what i usually leave for a finish pass, so i assumed i screwed up. i widened the pocket and all was well.

    i checked the program this morning, and it wasnt wrong.

    turns out that the ball screw pitch on the machine is out by that much. instead of 10mm pitch, they are 9.84mm give or take on the X, and 9.9mm-ish on the Y.

    calibration time!

    and time for another sheet of mdf for the table, cause its not quite workable in this case. i will eventually make a pvc table top, but not until this is working 100%.

    i also found the spindle is out of tram by a very very tiny amount. its almost small enough not to care, but you can feel ridges when the 1.25" wide face mill makes passes. im not decided on how to take care of this yet. i can shim the spindle swivel plate, the spindle back plate, the z axis, or the y axis rails/gantry. ill have to do some precision measuring to find out which one will give the best result. thats going to be tricky because nothing on this machine is magnetic to stick my indicator on!



  13. #53
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    ihavenofish

    You can start by putting the indicator in the spindle, just make a bar with a pin in one end for your spindle collet & mount the indicator on the other end, & then you can check it real easy, you want a least 6"to 8" swing

    I thought that the ballscrews were C5, grade they sound like they are C7 with that number you are getting 9.84/9.9

    Mactec54


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    Quote Originally Posted by mactec54 View Post
    ihavenofish

    You can start by putting the indicator in the spindle, just make a bar with a pin in one end for your spindle collet & mount the indicator on the other end, & then you can check it real easy, you want a least 6"to 8" swing

    I thought that the ballscrews were C5, grade they sound like they are C7 with that number you are getting 9.84/9.9
    sorry, for measuring i was meaning general alignment and calibration, not tram. i have a setup to measure tram already, but it first requires the table to be level and flat

    as for the screw grade, these are C5 rolled as the claim goes.

    c5 usually specifies about .02mm deviation from the mean pitch. it doesnt however necessarily specify the deviation of the mean pitch from the labeled pitch. the rolling process isnt aparently that controlled. on higher end ground screws they will specify this deviation and for c5 it would be about 0.05mm per 300mm. what ive got is more like 1.5mm per 300mm on the x axis.

    once the actual pitch is calibrated in mach3, you should get the true performance of the screw - which should be in C5 range if theres nothing funny going on (i have no reason to believe there is so far).

    this is something that must be done with all machines, even higer end ones. i was just a bit surprised just how much deviation i have, and serves as a good warning of how important it is to calibrate first.

    also to note, mach 3 can map out a screw to compensate for its internal accuracy as well, so a "sketchy" chinese c5 screw can be brought into much better precision provided theres no backlash and its not binding. ultimately, these screws exceed the precision of the rest of the machine by a fair margin no matter what grade they read.

    i need to run off to the 24 hour home depot to get myself a better table top. im wondering if they have any 2'x4' mdf with formica on it for cheap. this will give me a more consistent surface to work on - less fuzz and tearing and no moisture absorbtion.



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    so this tables a bit of a failure. the top laminate didnt glue on level. also have an issue where the ends of the router frame are just a hair above the extrusions, so i shimmed up the table to clear it.

    tomorrow im going to see if i can have someone with a shopbot mill me out a table from 1" mdf with recessed bolt holes and a clearance on the back for the end frames, along with precisely placed holes for my threaded inserts and wedge clamps.

    you can see my router swivel plate in the picture. working well so far, but i want to re make georges backplate later on with steel threads. i have a feeling the aluminium will strip after several repositions.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails XZero  CNC-table_1-jpg   XZero  CNC-jig_1-jpg  


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    Gold Member LeeWay's Avatar
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    I'll just relay what I have found out. I initially tried MDF. Humidity is so high in south Alabama that the MDF would not last a week.
    I tried two different quality plywoods next. They did work better, but were still prone to warping out in spots.
    What I use now and have been using for a couple years is an HDPE product. It's called Seaboard by brand name I think. Starboard is similar.
    It comes in Black or White.
    This is some really fine stable material. I get it from my plastics supplier. He always has stuff like this on Ebay as well.
    I use the 3/4" and 1" thick stuff.
    It cuts like butter and drills and sands very easy.
    It is a substitute for marine grade plywood.

    To do your table correctly, you should cut it out on your machine. That is by far the easiest most reliable way to get your surface flat.
    Then you will be able to mount tooling plates and jigs that are also level with your machine. I use threaded inserts and all my jigs are cut to the same insert pattern so everything fits perfectly making setup for different plates just a matter of about a minute.

    http://stores.ebay.com/NorVa-Plastic...34Q2ec0Q2em322

    Hope this helps.

    Lee


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    Quote Originally Posted by ihavenofish View Post
    so this tables a bit of a failure. the top laminate didnt glue on level. also have an issue where the ends of the router frame are just a hair above the extrusions, so i shimmed up the table to clear it.

    tomorrow im going to see if i can have someone with a shopbot mill me out a table from 1" mdf with recessed bolt holes and a clearance on the back for the end frames, along with precisely placed holes for my threaded inserts and wedge clamps.

    you can see my router swivel plate in the picture. working well so far, but i want to re make georges backplate later on with steel threads. i have a feeling the aluminium will strip after several repositions.
    The way we tram the spindles in our shopbots is the following:
    1) Use a dial indicator / drillrod / beam jig mounted in the spindle.
    2) Rough tram the spindle to whatever table you have prior to surfacing.
    3) Surface the table. There will still be ridges.
    4) Lay a piece of sheet glass (24x24 ish) on the table
    5) Tram to the top of the glass.

    The glass normalizes all of the ridges. If you had a precision ground steel or aluminum plate that would work as well.

    Scott...



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    Quote Originally Posted by sagreen View Post
    The way we tram the spindles in our shopbots is the following:
    1) Use a dial indicator / drillrod / beam jig mounted in the spindle.
    2) Rough tram the spindle to whatever table you have prior to surfacing.
    3) Surface the table. There will still be ridges.
    4) Lay a piece of sheet glass (24x24 ish) on the table
    5) Tram to the top of the glass.

    The glass normalizes all of the ridges. If you had a precision ground steel or aluminum plate that would work as well.

    Scott...
    interesting method.

    my method is to just use an indicator to track the surface and shim it level. then tram.

    i need to start with a fairly flat table, because the machine cant run wide enough to mill its own table.

    i rodered my PVC table top. will be here wednesday. i think i will wait for that, and prepare up everything else while i wait for it.

    i need to make alternate jigs for different guitar bodies still, and a setup for necks an such. also need to calibrate the screws. lots of work.



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    Quote Originally Posted by ihavenofish View Post
    interesting method.
    i need to start with a fairly flat table, because the machine cant run wide enough to mill its own table.
    Hmmm, thats odd. Why build the table bigger than the machine can surface? If you cant surface it, you cant cut to the size of the table either...

    Scott...



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    Quote Originally Posted by sagreen View Post
    Hmmm, thats odd. Why build the table bigger than the machine can surface? If you cant surface it, you cant cut to the size of the table either...

    Scott...
    a few reasons. first and most obvious is that the machine travel is 19.25" in the Y give or take, yet you need a 21" table to properly span the machines main extrusions, and 23" to provide a little cover over the X rails.

    i also have the table 44" long, where the machine travels 28.75" in the X. this is because i have my clamps outside the cutting area.

    i *could* surface the inner portion of the table separately, but then you have a ridge all the way around which is of no use to me. i could also use a big fly cutter to surface the side edges, but it still wont reach the ends on the X.

    as luck would have it, the pvc sheet is very flat - well within the flatness of my need for guitars. so all i need to be concerned with is leveling.



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