I need a tool to make Copper Tri Clamp Ferrule .... is there such a thing ?

[Goldhunter_2]

Ok first ya'll will have to excuses me because I have NO IDEA what to properly call this tool , I will try to describe it best I can.

They do sell 2" and 3" copper Tri-clamp Ferrule that can be soldiered on but believe that will get pretty expensive for the number of them I need and would like t have a new tool. (I will attach picture - happens to be welded one though) I know in small copper pipe you use a Flaring tool for gas lines that makes a beveled edge that seals against the fitting , I am wanting a tool similar but that makes a full flat ferrule on the ends of the pipe (without soldiering or extra expense) that I can use a tri-clamp to join and un-join sections. I have 3"" and 2" copper pipe .

I am not sure what to call this type tool maybe swagging,flaring,or something else, so first if anyone knows the correct name to look for this type tool would be very helpful? Second any links to the best prices on buying the tool would be awesome .

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[Goldhunter_2]

Here are a couple more pictures just for reference, you can see the 3" pipe will need ferrule's top & bottom as well as the 2" pipe so it would be much more convent to buy a tool to make them rather then buying large group of ferrule then welding on.

Does anyone have a idea what the tool name is or where to find it??

[Eldon_Joh]

I'm confused, are you trying to form the triclamp fitting from the end of a copper pipe with some kind of a tool?
I'm sure this is possible, but it will be very difficult. forming copper pipe into a flare fitting is infinitly easier than compressing the end of a .060" thick pipe and forming it into something that is like a washer, on the order of .4 inches by .15 inches.

One option might be to flare the end of the pipe at a 90 degree angle (you may have to do this in two stages, annealing the copper once or twice) , then braze it to a copper washer. then cut the oring groove in the copper washer and bevel the edge to the required angle (75 degrees?)

I would suggest instead that you cut a disk out of copper plate, bevel the edge to the 15 degrees or whatever it is, then cut the O ring grove with a ball end mill, then braze it to the copper pipe. you can make the washer pretty thick so you have sufficient surface area to make the joint.

[Goldhunter_2]

Yes looking for a tool that simple clamps on like a flaring tool but then 90's a ring (not 37 or 45) for the clamp to catch on. I don't need the o-ring groove it will have just a flat silicon gasket

[mactec54]

Goldhunter_2

If you just want to form a flange, the Tri-Clamp will not work, to use the Tri-Clamp it would have to have the correct taper & Flange thickness of the normal Tri-Clover Flange

To roll a flange on the copper tube you would anneal it, then could use something like a sheet metal Jenny, to form the flange

What is the reason to use copper tube

[Goldhunter_2]

well I was wanting to use the pipe for two reasons 1) save expense of three flanges per section 2) make a solid piece that didn't have to be attached

[mactec54]

Goldhunter_2

If you just want to join copper tubes, then just use silfos to weld/braze them together, no clamp joints needed, silfos is the correct welding rods to use for copper

What liquid is flowing through the pipe

[Goldhunter_2]

I'll use silver soldier to join everything, plus I already have couple tubes of it so saves a dollars using what I have on hand

only issue with that is the whole tower would be one piece and I couldn't disassemble for cleaning or storage, an couldn't adjust number of sections for different runs

[mactec54]

Goldhunter_2

Silfos is stronger for copper, than silver solder, & there is no flux to clean up, just put the available copper Tri flanges were needed then

[Goldhunter_2]

It will have either a 5 or 15 psi pop off , so it isn't to much pressure.

Well it sounds like I just need to bite the bullet and spend the 650-700 dollars for ferrules , thanks for the help everyone.

[Eldon_Joh]

Are you looking at buying certain solderable copper 2 inch triclamp flanges for 16$ a piece from a certain website? I couldn't find 3 inch fittings, but they had 4 inch for 30$. weren't very thick either...

I am attempting to cast a 7? inch copper disk this weekend which will be turned into a 6 inch copper triclamp cap (then more fittings brazed into it)
I don't have any means of making a cored casting though.

So if I'm successful then it will not be difficult to cast well oversized 2 and 3 inch flanges and then turn them down in a lathe.. if i'm not successful it means my crucible broke and i'll need to replace all the nichrome in my oven.

I know I have to make a 2 inch triclamp flange, about 2 inches long (so gussets can be brazed between the 2 inch flange and the 6 inch cap)
But if all you need is simple 2 and 3 inch flanges, then I might be able to make make 4 per melt. can't promise you anything though, but it would not cost me a lot of time to make them.

my friend is demanding only copper wire and pipe goes into this melt because he's a bit paranoid about his health.. if you catch my drift of what the end product is..

[Goldhunter_2]

yep I catch your drift ,your friend sounds like he needs them for the same end use. I had not thought about trying to cast some but I'd be interested to hear how you casting turn out. I am guessing your sand casting then turning on lathe , years ago I have used hardwood to make cored molds for casting lead sometimes I'd get one use sometimes a dozen but if your turning on lathe to clean up anyway mite be worth try rather then boring that 7" fitting out for ow ever many he needs

yes I know the site its the number of fitting that cost so much is why I originally asked the question they have brass or copper ferrules. The added cost of these may delay my project even if I went wit brass. There are some ferrules that press inside the pipe they work but restricts an reduces your flow ever so slightly and then there are ones that slip over the pipe with a shoulder on the inside. Some ferrules are grooved to allow plates to be clamped in then removed when disassembled for cleaning.

Your friends 7" would not need to be as tall as my 3" tower to get the same volume and quality of production , I was actual looking for 4" pipe but 3" is what I came across so I'll just have to make it a little taller tower.

[mactec54]

Goldhunter_2

This may help you if you have not seen it already, they have made some quite good flanges

Home Distiller ? View topic - Build your own Easy Flange

The other simple way is to roll the flange with a Jenny & put a brass ring the correct shape behind it, with using a Jenny you will get a perfect flange

[victorofga]

if you have a 5-10 piece then just buy those ferrules..
if you have hundreds of, then you need a tool..
clamping the pipe and pressing a tool into what makes the flange, or using a ""roller"" what basically makes same than spin metal..

for 2 -3 inches you possible cant find.. so you need a custom stuff

[Goldhunter_2]

Mactec54,
thanks for that thread it was helpful , I like the idea of the #4 ground wire one should be economical and could turn in lathe to clean up outer bevel for clamp .

I Ridgid #E-64 hammer flare tool is pretty close to what I was originally thinking of those it looks like it is still a flared surface , going to look up the specs on it that mite do the trick

[Goldhunter_2]

Victorofga,
I'd need about 20 3" and 8-9 2" so it isn't hundreds but would cost a few dollars (which add up) and if I ever wanted to do ore I have to buy again this looking for tooling

[victorofga]

then just make a clamp.. I mean if you have access to machineshop..
the clamp I thinking two flat bar, and mill out the diameter..... then simply hammer out the flange..

not fast, but you don't need nothing but a hammer..

if copper were too rigid, then heat up with a propane torch the pipe end and put in a bucket cold water.. that makes soft the copper..


otherwise you can spin copper even on a wood lathe..

[underthetire]

I've seen lots of those in stainless, never copper. I think those are a vacuum style fitting.