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Thread: Concrete VMC

  1. #37
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    Default Re: Concrete VMC

    Very nice. Can’t wait to see more.


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  2. #38
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    Default Re: Concrete VMC

    I am struggling a bit how to make the connection between the column and the base. I will cast in steel plates so i can bolt the column down to the base. the surfaces of those plates will be machined after the casting but that will never be 100% right so i need to be able to tram the column.
    what i am thinking about is put some big gub screws on each corner so i can adjust the gap between the plates to level it out. and after hat eject the gape between with some epoxy. when going for this option i think i don't need to machine those plates at all after casting.

    Those plates right now are 220x300mm each so they are really big.
    i think i have to mill in an grove and put in a big rubber open o ring around the edge. and then inject the epoxy on one side until it is completely filed.

    How do you guys think of this method?

    stef





  3. #39
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    Default Re: Concrete VMC

    I don't see why that wouldn't work.

    Do you plan on post-tensioning the column? It won't see huge loads, but the repetitive nature of what loads it does see could conceivably cause the column to crack. (I'm just thinking out loud here, with no numbers to back me up, and I'm certainly not criticizing your excellent build.)

    "All I'm trying to find out is the fellow's name on first base" -- Lou Costello


  4. #40
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    Default Re: Concrete VMC

    It seems reasonable to me also. But I've never done it.

    My preference would be to use a big steel beam(s) structure, then fill that with epoxy granite or concrete when you're done.

    An alternative method would be to use stainless steel shim tape for fitting adjustments. I have some of the stuff and I love it. Then you could put some mold release on one side and when you reassemble, the force of gravity would squish out any extra epoxy.

    But like I said, what you are proposing sounds reasonable, and could would allow for a more precise adjustment than the alternative I suggested.



  5. #41
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    Default Re: Concrete VMC

    Forger the o-ring. It is common in industry and also building to thread holes into the top matching plate, and use screws to get the gantry aligned and then inject an epoxy grout into the gap. Just seal the edges with silicon before injecting.
    Mark

    Regards,
    Mark


  6. #42
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    Default Re: Concrete VMC

    I recall someone doing something like this, possibly in the huge thread. They cast tubes in so they could inject the epoxy from above. Wax 1 surface, square with the set screws and inject. I don't recall if he drilled for alignment pins after. That is if you ever plan to pull them apart, saves time for reassembly.



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    Default Re: Concrete VMC

    Here is a nice video showing using epoxy grout for aligning the column to the base.



    He has a few other videos on building a concrete VMC.

    Best
    Jacob



  8. #44
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    Default Re: Concrete VMC

    Quote Originally Posted by stef110 View Post
    I am struggling a bit how to make the connection between the column and the base. I will cast in steel plates so i can bolt the column down to the base. the surfaces of those plates will be machined after the casting but that will never be 100% right so i need to be able to tram the column.
    what i am thinking about is put some big gub screws on each corner so i can adjust the gap between the plates to level it out. and after hat eject the gape between with some epoxy. when going for this option i think i don't need to machine those plates at all after casting.

    Those plates right now are 220x300mm each so they are really big.
    i think i have to mill in an grove and put in a big rubber open o ring around the edge. and then inject the epoxy on one side until it is completely filed.

    How do you guys think of this method?

    stef
    I think it's a good method. One thing that you could do is machine a shallow pocket in the plates to accept a filling of epoxy or maybe even a filling of squeezed in silicone glue to give some damping and some extra holding power. This way you might be able to take it apart if you ever needed to.
    The areas of the plates around the bolts would be as flat as possible and then you would align the column using shim stock to get it dialed in and tightly bolted. Then fill the pocket with epoxy or some kind of adhesive damping material. Or this might not be necessary if there are enough bolts and the surface area under the bolt areas is sufficient for the stiffness required.



  9. #45
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    Default Re: Concrete VMC

    Any news to the mill?



  10. #46
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    Default

    Very nice. Can you please share the 3D drawing . Thanks
    My email :hoangthangbk51@gmail.com
    Thanks



  11. #47
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    Default Re: Concrete VMC

    A very good start and now ?

    Any kind of news of the built ? Heard nothing new for a long time



  12. #48
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    Default Re: Concrete VMC

    Hey guys its been an long while since my last post, In the mean time nothing happens on the mill because of other things that needed to be done.
    Last week i visited a guy how was selling a diy concrete mill, after seeing his amazing build i started to look at my own designs again and i would like to restart this project.

    I want to try to reduce some of the costs of this build now, by skipping the flat milling of the steel blocks that will be in the casting. I want to try to use self leveling epoxy now to get my rails flat.
    Since the collum will be adjustable before final mounting those steel plates don't need to be machined after casting.

    I redraw-ed my base design, and would like to show you for some input from you guys. If i look to some different designs that are out on the internet. I see different ways on the steel mounting blocks.
    Some machines have the steel blocks on top of the concrete and some have the blocks half in the concrete. Will there be any difference? I now drawed a lot of m16 bolts in the blocks to fuse them with the concrete. I want to tap blind holes in the steel and tighly screw the bolts in and then spot weld them so they won't get lose. Will this be enough or is more the better?

    I have to ask this question also with the concrete factory but would it be wise to put some steel rebar in the concrete and connect all the steel blocks together with this rebar?

    Dimension of the base are now 1080x650x200mm (LxWxH)
    The steel frame under the base is now drawed with 100x100x5 steel tubes. Im thinking i will also poor those with concrete when its done.

    stef









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