Enco Table Top CNC Retrofit - Page 3


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Thread: Enco Table Top CNC Retrofit

  1. #25
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    Torsten,

    The y-axis nut was purchased from HomeshopCNC and it was a Nook brand. He advertised them as pre-loaded so I suspect you are correct in that they must have been setup with oversized balls.

    When I was ready to purchase the x-axis, he no longer carried the nook ball nuts so I ordered from Reid Supply thinking I was going to get the same thing but I was wrong. I'm learning as I go so I've made a few mistakes and I'm starting to realize I should have gone with the double nut setup possibly?!

    Do you know where to purchase oversized balls and how to load them properly?

    Best Regards.

    Carl



  2. #26
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    Don't know if this is going to work but I did want to thank everyone that has responded to my questions for the feedback. It was invaluable and helped to either keep me on track or get me back on track. Thank you!

    Well, the electronics are done and I'm going to go over this several times before firing it up but I believe I need to start learning how to go from TurbCAD to the final G code output. Not sure how this all works but I can now focus a little attention on this and see how I can test this new setup.

    Best Regards.

    Carl

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Enco Table Top CNC Retrofit-final-jpg  


  3. #27
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    Finally got these steppers to sing. I ran into some trouble setting up Mach3 on my Dell XPS system. Just couldn't get the steppers to run smoothly. They sounded like rock crushers. I suspected grounding problems and interference from all the posts I read so I went through a series of checks and test. I even wired up a new cable for the steppers to bypass all wires to ensure it wasn't interference but nothing worked. I finally noticed if I was playing with the mouse when the steppers were running they kind of kicked in and tried to run smooth. Made me realize it was probably the Dell XPS.

    I finally doug out my old Dell Latitude 8100 and still had problems. After some thought and config changes to the 8100, I was able to get the steppers to run smooth. Never did get the Motor Setup to work in Mach3 but when I went direct to the MDI and entered the commands they ran smooth.

    I even did some circles and they were spot on. I was amazed. I got a little cocky and tried 20, 30, 40, and 50 IPM and it was great. I went back the next day and tried 60 IPM and noticed it did loose some steps but I will never be running anywere near those speeds so this is great.

    I also just recieved my z-axis stepper as I decided to go with a Nema 23 instead of the 34 I had already bought so I will be trying to config a setup to fit inside the head behind the quill like some of the other folks did here.

    Best Regards.

    Carl



  4. #28
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    Well, after receiving the new stepper for the Z axis I decided to punt and just setup the Z axis using the micro feed for the sake of time. If things go well, I'll spent time setting up the Z axis using a ball screw inside the head but for now I just wanted to get to the original project which I've lost track of.

    A few pictures if anyone is interested.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Enco Table Top CNC Retrofit-z-bracket-jpg   Enco Table Top CNC Retrofit-z-bracket-2-jpg   Enco Table Top CNC Retrofit-z-mount-jpg  


  5. #29
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    Now that I've got all the axis working, I needed to setup the limit/home switches. Mach 3 sure is nice in this regard. I only wanted one switch per axis for both the limit and home functionality and this works great.

    The Z axis setup may be a little odd but it met the requirements and seems to work.

    Yes, more pictures.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Enco Table Top CNC Retrofit-x-limithome-jpg   Enco Table Top CNC Retrofit-y-limithome-jpg   Enco Table Top CNC Retrofit-z-limithome-jpg  


  6. #30
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    Now for the purpose of this 2 year detour. With any luck, I'll be able to cross out my clock gears. I was able to draw one of the timing gears in TurboCNC and then with TurboCAM setup the pocket milling operation.

    I can't read G code very well yet but it's pretty impresive what it generated.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Enco Table Top CNC Retrofit-gear-crossing-1-bmp  


  7. #31
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    Made some test chips today. The Z-Axis will run fine for most of the program and towards the end it will randomly bind. Sounds like it's binding anyway but it doesn't always do it.

    I've been slowing down all drives in the motor tuning setup to see if it corrects itself. I've also put my computer in single user mode and disabled Norton and other unecessary applications. I will try and get a scope on this thing to see what's going on if it persists.

    Here's the test block that shows what the gear crossing out will look like.

    Best Regards.

    Carl

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Enco Table Top CNC Retrofit-gear-crossing-test-jpg  


  8. #32
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    Hi Carl,

    I'm doing the same exact thing. I'm working on the leadscrews right now (far behind from where you are!) I'm adapting some ball screws to the X and Y axis and tomorrow I should have them built. I tested the Z axis and found a couple of details that mess the precision. First, on the left side of the Z-axis control shaft (by the spring) there is some amount of play that translates into the axis jumping. I bored the carrier and added a bronze bushing there, fairly tight. On the other side of the shaft, it is not really centric, meaning that the gear that the handle moves is not centered on the shaft, thus giving some oportunity to bind. I think this is a hard situation to solve, unless you change all the parts in that area (which I'm not doing!)

    Again, great work, I wish I was as far as you on your machine.


    Rafa



  9. #33
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    Rafa,

    I never even bothered to see how bad the Z-Axis may be in regard to slop on that shaft. I may need to do some tests on mine to see what type of play I have. Hopefully I will get to doing the ball screw setup before I need to do this though. Good luck with your project.

    I thought I had my setup all dialed in and finally went from cutting test blocks to one of my gears and found out the hard way I have some problems. For some reason when I run just the x or just the y axis it returns to zero fine. However, when I run the x and y together I'm always off and more importantly it's progressive. If I run from x0y0 to x1y1 five times back and forth in either G90 or G91 mode, it will be off by a factor of 5*x where x depends on the total distance moved.

    In the picture below, it was off by about 0.032 form concentric but the program itself seemed to run fine?!

    I have no idea what's going on so if anyone out there has experienced this or has ideas how to track this down it would be greatly appreciated.

    Best Regards.

    Carl

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Enco Table Top CNC Retrofit-gear-crossing-reduced-jpg  


  10. #34
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    In my experience, when that has happened to me, it's because my steps per inch are off. Or backlash is present. But I'd lean towards SPI being off.

    I setup a dial indicator and make movements, then adjust accordingly. Just my two cents.



  11. #35
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    I guess it's possible but when doing simple moves with just the x axis or just the y axis, it was right on. I setup a 6" dial indiactor and verified this during the original setup. When I was doing combined xy moves, I setup an edge finder used for centering over a hole and that's how I determined the error only occured during combined moves. It was odd though because I did many circle tests and they were perfect using a pen drawing on a piece of paper.

    I was able to set Mach3 in Sherline Mode, based on suggestions from the Mach3 forum, and it seems to have cured the problem. My preliminary tests were very promising and I will do more comprehensive tests later this week.

    Best Regards.

    Carl



  12. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmnewcomer View Post
    Been doing some work on the box and it's become more of a puzzle than I expected trying to lay this out efficiently. Anyway, I'm pretty commited at this point as shown by the pictures below.

    One thing that I haven't been able to find is the recommended resistor power rating (i.e., 1/2 watt, 1 watt, other) for the Geko drive current set? I'm using a 270K resistor since my steppers will need 6A but not sure about the power rating demand.

    Best Regards.

    Carl

    Hey! prolly been addressed but nook has 3 variations of the ballscrews- spr, xpr, and sgt. the spr is the cheapest, and .004", the xpr is .001", and the sgt is ground .0005".

    regards



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