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Thread: 18x18 Linear Rail Tormach Build.

  1. #61
    Registered amishx64's Avatar
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    You tried it with lower accel? If you are using Mach3 did you go back and check to see that the setting actually stuck?

    What electronics setup are you using?



  2. #62
    Member nateman_doo's Avatar
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    I lowered the accel, but it didn't help. I just made the gibs as loose as possible. only tightening the center (of 3) gib screw until it made contact. Once I finish this build, I will just make the X2 build go away and upgrade it to linear rails. i cant stand dovetails anymore. I have ZERO backlash on the rails. I just tried to measure it with a 0.0005 Swiss style indicator and I can't see any backlash whatsoever.

    In keeping with the "small progress daily" theme, I made a small part for the Y axis. The tail end of the screw was free floating in space. Thought it would extend the life of the ball nut and cut down the whipping around of the screw by stabilizing the screw:





    it hangs off the tail end which will get bolted to that lower most plate. most of that plate will still be submerged in concrete. When I pour the base.



  3. #63
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    keep at it- you're making good progress. Can't wait to see the video of first chips!



  4. #64
    Member Fastest1's Avatar
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    Just read it all. Nice work. It will be interesting to see how you implement the concrete but the mold for that should be very easy to do. Plenty of additives are available for the concrete mix to do about whatever you want.



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    Default wiring

    Since you swapped the motor and it is doing the same thing, check the wiring on the driver and the PS to driver. I think I was told Voltage is torque and it has no torque, so maybe the PS wiring is at fault. Next would be to swap the driver, just swap over your connector to another axis.
    I can't wait to see this machine in operation.
    Chris



  6. #66
    Member nateman_doo's Avatar
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    Zero backlash!

    Sorry its a HORRIBLE cell phone video so the indicator (0.0005) doesn't really come into focus:
    "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qLEk8jWzAk"]Zero backlash - YouTube



  7. #67
    Member nateman_doo's Avatar
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    And first movements with a 19.2V cordless drill:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLI1lJ4QoqY]First linear movement - YouTube

    the blue bags on the right are the 10 bags of quickrete countertop mix.



  8. #68

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    Hi Nate,

    What ballscrews are you using and in what size diameter?

    www.VicRC.com


  9. #69
    Member nateman_doo's Avatar
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    I think they are somewhere in the neighborhood of 0.625. The chinese stuff on ebay. probably thinner then they should be for a build this size. There is 0.0005" of flex in the table; as in if I push directly y or x I can get the indicator to move that much. That might go away with a larger ballscrew, but in any case I still don't think thats a bad amount of table flex. Top that off with the fact that these are used linear bearings. They obviously lost their usefulness to someone so thats how they ended up on ebay. maybe 0.0005 is too much for a precision machine. I think it will do ok for me.



  10. #70
    Member nateman_doo's Avatar
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    I was tired of messing around with such tiny home switches, so I decided to make my own:

    behold the "bullet switch" (kinda looks like a 12 gauge shell to me)

    That aluminum top will be electrically isolated from the rest of the mill via the delrin, and it will touch a hanging portion of aluminum angle. All while being safely tucked under the table away from swarf. Should give very good repeatability.



  11. #71
    Member nateman_doo's Avatar
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    BTW, the X2 wires were kind of loose, but i made them all tighter. Still has no torque on the X motor. the winding wires rest around 30-40 volts, and go up to 70 volts when energized to move the motor.



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    Default Too much Voltage

    When we were having the supply voltage conversation, you mentioned the X2 motors got kind of hot. Did you do the math on the inductance X 32? Maybe the supply voltage is high and that is making your motor too hot. Maybe to the point of finally damaging it?

    It was odd that you mentioned the other motor did it as well. Don't think that would be it.

    What driver are you using? I am an aircraft mechanic by trade and this type of troubleshooting is what we do every day. Usually the components take much longer to swap out and we have miles of wiring to check.

    Chris



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    How did you get the rails straight as you installed them? Did you mill a ridge in the plates?



  14. #74
    Member nateman_doo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsamples View Post
    When we were having the supply voltage conversation, you mentioned the X2 motors got kind of hot. Did you do the math on the inductance X 32? Maybe the supply voltage is high and that is making your motor too hot. Maybe to the point of finally damaging it?

    It was odd that you mentioned the other motor did it as well. Don't think that would be it.

    What driver are you using? I am an aircraft mechanic by trade and this type of troubleshooting is what we do every day. Usually the components take much longer to swap out and we have miles of wiring to check.

    Chris
    I am using this motor:
    http://www.kelinginc.net/KL23H2100-50-4B.pdf

    I agree its weird that the other motor would do the same. The only thing left to try would be the BoB and the gecko drivers. I will be ordering new gecko drivers when they open back up in January.

    The power supply SHOULD be 50V, but I have been using the 70V for about 3 years now. Yes, the motors get hot, but with the liquid splashing them it kept them cool. I have been doing a bunch of plastic cutting lately which I didn't use coolant so they have just been functioning with the increased heat for a few weeks.

    I did order 3 new motors & a spare for the new build since the spare is doing the same thing.




    Quote Originally Posted by Fireman11 View Post
    How did you get the rails straight as you installed them? Did you mill a ridge in the plates?
    Nope. Started with a single master rail. Then bolted a steel plate to the pillow blocks and used my magnetic indicator and indicated the second one to within 0.0005 over 24"



  15. #75
    Member nateman_doo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fireman11 View Post
    How did you get the rails straight as you installed them? Did you mill a ridge in the plates?
    Funny you mentioned it I found a MUCH easier way to align the rails...



    Starting the Z axis. Align the rail to the left side of the plate (just for aesthetics - not a true edge) Then clamp the left rail & bolt it. Then stuff the 1-2-3/4-5-6 blocks in between to whatever you want your space, and clamp/tap/bolt.



  16. #76
    Member nateman_doo's Avatar
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    Made a completely new enclosure for the concrete pan this morning:

    Its now 4x4x10" tall. The concrete will NOT be that high, but I haven't quite figured out how deep I want it.

    Here is the Z gantry lit up:




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    Default Stepper Driver

    Which stepper driver are you using? Keling? It might not like the 70 volts.

    Chris



  18. #78
    Member nateman_doo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsamples View Post
    Which stepper driver are you using? Keling? It might not like the 70 volts.

    Chris
    Yea, Should be 50. At least with this build I am getting the right one. Also the power supply place is about 20 minutes away. It should be in on monday. I could just drive down there and pick up another one for this build, but what do I do with a 70V power supply?



  19. #79
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    Default 70 Volts......

    That would drive a servo......



  20. #80
    Member nateman_doo's Avatar
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    whats the difference between the steppers and the servos?



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18x18 Linear Rail Tormach Build.

18x18 Linear Rail Tormach Build.