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    Registered Skyfire's Avatar
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    Hi guys. I finished the second painting now. The molds look more smooth now. I wanted to use the noral green pain, but the paint shop sent me two cans of shining green pain. So the molds look a little shining now.. but I really don't like this color. So the molds are almost ready now. I will do no more fixing works on the molds and will send to casting factory for iron parts soon. So I think it will take at least one week for samples. And I will take some picuture of casting process if possible. Thanks everyone.











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    And I stacked them together for a photo too. Does it look like a real machine now? That will be the machine frame as the drawing shows.





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    Quote Originally Posted by elvistaylor View Post
    Hi.,,Skyfire

    thank your cute reply to me.. Mainly cnc machine is used to design a wood whatever design we need.. What programming language is used in this machine..

    How its work.. Its any computer work on it..

    regards..

    Texas cnc machine shop..
    Hi, elvistaylor. You are welcome. I think we can learn more about CNC in the forums. Viewing threads will be much helpful to understand CNC.

    Regards,



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    Hi Skyfire,
    it is going to be a sand cast, so you don't need to win a beauty contest in your paint job.
    I'm more concerned about where you depart the mold plug from the top and bottom sand box. Currently, it appears to depart on the top edge, which will create quite some flashes on these edges.
    To my humble experience it is better to make the departing line in the middle of the bottom flange at a vertical surface and than taper that flange to both sides up and downwards.
    However, happy casting!

    Regards,
    Stefan



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    Skyfire good looking job your doing there, and thanks for posting your work.


    A picture of someone standing beside the parts would help to give some scale of the size of the machine.


    Being a person who has bought some of these machines I wander why adding more casting is not used? I am sure cost becomes a problem but more ridged machines would be better for many people.

    Without a finished product though its hard to judge what the machine is really made like so I may be speaking out of line here so forgive me if I am.

    Many of us that buy these machines always end up doing modifications to the machines to help make them stronger. But like I said, its hard to judge from a picture what I am looking at. I will be looking forward to seeing your finished castings.


    And again thank you for sharing your work with us. Its not to often we get to see first hand a build from start to finish.



    Thank You , Jess



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    I've been browsing by "today's posts" and noticed this thread today:

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht..._iron_box.html



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    Quote Originally Posted by stewi View Post
    Hi Skyfire,
    it is going to be a sand cast, so you don't need to win a beauty contest in your paint job.
    I'm more concerned about where you depart the mold plug from the top and bottom sand box. Currently, it appears to depart on the top edge, which will create quite some flashes on these edges.
    To my humble experience it is better to make the departing line in the middle of the bottom flange at a vertical surface and than taper that flange to both sides up and downwards.
    However, happy casting!

    Regards,
    Stefan
    Hi Stewi, yes, I really don’t have to make the molds beautiful because once it is used in real casting, It’ will be dark and many small damages by sand. I just tried to make the surface more smooth.

    Yes. I totally agree with your points on the departing line issue. It will be better to do as you said. I’m sure the castings will have some flashes after filling in iron. That’s very common in former experience. But the better molds follow your method will make the building process more complex and need much more precision work with locating pieces and holes on the both side molds. I tried to make the whole mold in one piece for easier work and save time. I think if for a formal production, We should go with more professional molds as you said. Thank you for the professional comments and good wishes~

    I’m talking to the casting factory now and think will need one week for samples.

    Regards



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    Quote Originally Posted by LUCKY13 View Post
    Skyfire good looking job your doing there, and thanks for posting your work.


    A picture of someone standing beside the parts would help to give some scale of the size of the machine.


    Being a person who has bought some of these machines I wander why adding more casting is not used? I am sure cost becomes a problem but more ridged machines would be better for many people.

    Without a finished product though its hard to judge what the machine is really made like so I may be speaking out of line here so forgive me if I am.

    Many of us that buy these machines always end up doing modifications to the machines to help make them stronger. But like I said, its hard to judge from a picture what I am looking at. I will be looking forward to seeing your finished castings.


    And again thank you for sharing your work with us. Its not to often we get to see first hand a build from start to finish.



    Thank You , Jess
    Hi LUCKY13, thank you for your comments. I think the stiffness is the most concern for many people now. I did have consider to add more ribs or make the pillar wider to get more stiffness. But then I thought the machine will be a desktop one and maybe should not too heavy and normally for small cuttings with small tools espeically using a high speed electric spindle. So I just give the pillar enough thickness and several ribs in side. But after all, this is the first prototype of this machine. I will test after finish including heavy cut with steel. If found having problem with the structure stifness, I will add more ribs on the column to make it strongger in formal production. If no problem, I will not add to keep the total weight. So just wait the last testing result.

    Thank you again. I just want to show the manufacture process to sharing the fun and get some advises from your guys.

    Regards



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    Quote Originally Posted by rocketflier View Post
    I've been browsing by "today's posts" and noticed this thread today:

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht..._iron_box.html
    Hi rocketflier, thank you for sharing other guy's works. It's a so long thread for long time and seems they have done great works there. I will read when have more time. I hope can learn from each other.

    Regards



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    Hi skyfire.
    How many times this wooden mold can be used for sand casting?

    I'm more concerned about where you depart the mold plug from the top and bottom sand box. Currently, it appears to depart on the top edge, which will create quite some flashes on these edges.
    To my humble experience it is better to make the departing line in the middle of the bottom flange at a vertical surface and than taper that flange to both sides up and downwards.
    I do not understand the sentence above, I have no back ground in sand casting. If you can explain it, it will be better for me and many thanks before!



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    Quote Originally Posted by asuratman View Post
    Hi skyfire.
    How many times this wooden mold can be used for sand casting?



    I do not understand the sentence above, I have no back ground in sand casting. If you can explain it, it will be better for me and many thanks before!
    Greensand casting
    A sandcasting primer

    A 'parting line' is where a mold is separated. From the links above, you set a part/plug/model on a table, put the flask(cope/drag top/bottom are the 2 halves of the box, the flask, holding the sand mold) on the table and fill with sand. Then flip that over, put the other 1/2 of the flask (drag) on and install the second 1/2 of the part/plug/model (if a 2 part plug is used). Then fill with sand. Split the halves and remove the plug. Install vents and the fill hole (spruce). Cleanup loose sand and install the cope on the drag. Pour.

    Flash is created at the parting line, where the cope/drag meet, because some metal will flow into that fine crack. You'd probably recognize it on almost any molded plastic part.

    While not much of a concern in the hobby world, because you just spend a little more time to clean up, ideally you'd want the flash at a point that is going to be machined anyway or hidden and out of the way.

    But I didn't completely follow what his concern was.



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    Hi Rocketflier,
    Thanks for explanations and links. That's very good readings.



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Show how to build a CNC machine from the very beginning to the end

Show how to build a CNC machine from the very beginning to the end