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    Skyfire good looking job your doing there, and thanks for posting your work.


    A picture of someone standing beside the parts would help to give some scale of the size of the machine.


    Being a person who has bought some of these machines I wander why adding more casting is not used? I am sure cost becomes a problem but more ridged machines would be better for many people.

    Without a finished product though its hard to judge what the machine is really made like so I may be speaking out of line here so forgive me if I am.

    Many of us that buy these machines always end up doing modifications to the machines to help make them stronger. But like I said, its hard to judge from a picture what I am looking at. I will be looking forward to seeing your finished castings.


    And again thank you for sharing your work with us. Its not to often we get to see first hand a build from start to finish.



    Thank You , Jess



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    I've been browsing by "today's posts" and noticed this thread today:

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht..._iron_box.html



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    Quote Originally Posted by stewi View Post
    Hi Skyfire,
    it is going to be a sand cast, so you don't need to win a beauty contest in your paint job.
    I'm more concerned about where you depart the mold plug from the top and bottom sand box. Currently, it appears to depart on the top edge, which will create quite some flashes on these edges.
    To my humble experience it is better to make the departing line in the middle of the bottom flange at a vertical surface and than taper that flange to both sides up and downwards.
    However, happy casting!

    Regards,
    Stefan
    Hi Stewi, yes, I really don’t have to make the molds beautiful because once it is used in real casting, It’ will be dark and many small damages by sand. I just tried to make the surface more smooth.

    Yes. I totally agree with your points on the departing line issue. It will be better to do as you said. I’m sure the castings will have some flashes after filling in iron. That’s very common in former experience. But the better molds follow your method will make the building process more complex and need much more precision work with locating pieces and holes on the both side molds. I tried to make the whole mold in one piece for easier work and save time. I think if for a formal production, We should go with more professional molds as you said. Thank you for the professional comments and good wishes~

    I’m talking to the casting factory now and think will need one week for samples.

    Regards



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    Quote Originally Posted by LUCKY13 View Post
    Skyfire good looking job your doing there, and thanks for posting your work.


    A picture of someone standing beside the parts would help to give some scale of the size of the machine.


    Being a person who has bought some of these machines I wander why adding more casting is not used? I am sure cost becomes a problem but more ridged machines would be better for many people.

    Without a finished product though its hard to judge what the machine is really made like so I may be speaking out of line here so forgive me if I am.

    Many of us that buy these machines always end up doing modifications to the machines to help make them stronger. But like I said, its hard to judge from a picture what I am looking at. I will be looking forward to seeing your finished castings.


    And again thank you for sharing your work with us. Its not to often we get to see first hand a build from start to finish.



    Thank You , Jess
    Hi LUCKY13, thank you for your comments. I think the stiffness is the most concern for many people now. I did have consider to add more ribs or make the pillar wider to get more stiffness. But then I thought the machine will be a desktop one and maybe should not too heavy and normally for small cuttings with small tools espeically using a high speed electric spindle. So I just give the pillar enough thickness and several ribs in side. But after all, this is the first prototype of this machine. I will test after finish including heavy cut with steel. If found having problem with the structure stifness, I will add more ribs on the column to make it strongger in formal production. If no problem, I will not add to keep the total weight. So just wait the last testing result.

    Thank you again. I just want to show the manufacture process to sharing the fun and get some advises from your guys.

    Regards



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    Quote Originally Posted by rocketflier View Post
    I've been browsing by "today's posts" and noticed this thread today:

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht..._iron_box.html
    Hi rocketflier, thank you for sharing other guy's works. It's a so long thread for long time and seems they have done great works there. I will read when have more time. I hope can learn from each other.

    Regards



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    Hi skyfire.
    How many times this wooden mold can be used for sand casting?

    I'm more concerned about where you depart the mold plug from the top and bottom sand box. Currently, it appears to depart on the top edge, which will create quite some flashes on these edges.
    To my humble experience it is better to make the departing line in the middle of the bottom flange at a vertical surface and than taper that flange to both sides up and downwards.
    I do not understand the sentence above, I have no back ground in sand casting. If you can explain it, it will be better for me and many thanks before!



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    Quote Originally Posted by asuratman View Post
    Hi skyfire.
    How many times this wooden mold can be used for sand casting?



    I do not understand the sentence above, I have no back ground in sand casting. If you can explain it, it will be better for me and many thanks before!
    Greensand casting
    A sandcasting primer

    A 'parting line' is where a mold is separated. From the links above, you set a part/plug/model on a table, put the flask(cope/drag top/bottom are the 2 halves of the box, the flask, holding the sand mold) on the table and fill with sand. Then flip that over, put the other 1/2 of the flask (drag) on and install the second 1/2 of the part/plug/model (if a 2 part plug is used). Then fill with sand. Split the halves and remove the plug. Install vents and the fill hole (spruce). Cleanup loose sand and install the cope on the drag. Pour.

    Flash is created at the parting line, where the cope/drag meet, because some metal will flow into that fine crack. You'd probably recognize it on almost any molded plastic part.

    While not much of a concern in the hobby world, because you just spend a little more time to clean up, ideally you'd want the flash at a point that is going to be machined anyway or hidden and out of the way.

    But I didn't completely follow what his concern was.



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    Hi Rocketflier,
    Thanks for explanations and links. That's very good readings.



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    Hi guys. Sorry for not posted in last weekend since very busy last few days. I've visited several casting factories and saw some casting processes. I took some photos and will post here for some discussion soon. I've not decided which one I will work with yet.

    Thanks to rocketfllier for your good weblink to explain the casting issues. I took a look at the website and think very good explaination to the basic casting process. I hope my photos will give some more review of it. I will update tomorrow. too late tonight in China now.

    Regards



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    Hi, here are some photos taken in the casting factories. It's really a hard job there with many dirt and high temperature and bad air conditions.

    the workroom: dark, black sand on the ground


    workroom2: There are some cast sand box there. The molds have been removed from the sand box so they are ready for cast now.


    workroom3:


    the electric furnace: I remember some guy want to see this. This is a small one, can smelt about 800KG iron per time. This is much better than traditional stoves using coke with higher temperature and better temperature control. Normally it will make the castings have higher quality.


    Okey, this is the real filling in process. the key point of the whole production. But it's really very danger to go close to the furance at that time. So I could just took a picture from far end of the workroom. Some workers will be very close to the filling in point and the temperature there will be over 60 C degree. Really hard work there.




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    Here are some nice work there. some machine frame, pipe parts etc.they look very nice works--have no bubbles, sand holes on the surface, sharp nice edge and clear small words on surface. But, ofcourse, that's not wood molds can do. They are made of aluminium molds made by CNC. For long term and big batch production, that's the best choice now. And what kind of sand you want to use is another important point. traditional clay sand, the black sand you see in the workroom; or high end resin sand will bring different surface quality.

    I think I will have to chose the clay sand process because wood molds can handle this sand only.

    okey, photos now.







    here are two pictures of the molds there. They are the aluminium ones. look good surface and accurate shaps. so they can make nice castings.






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    And the last photos today:

    several pictures of a casting iron machine fram process:

    this one:


    firstly make the outside sand box: this will form the outer shap of the machine frame. I didn't see the outer molds, so just the finished sand box.


    And then build the sand core: this part will occupy the big room inside the frame and form the ribs, holes inside.
    the molds for the core: they are wood ones as I made.


    the formed sand block: this will be placed exactly into the sand box above and then only the wall's thickness can be filled in the melted iron.


    before placed into the sand box. the core block will be painted with some kind of coating material. It will make the casting surface more smooth and sand not easy to stick on the finished iron part.


    Okey. that's all the pictures in casting location. I can't see all over the process because short visit time. but things next is not hart to imagine: planced the sand block into the sand box, fill in the melted iron, cold down, remove the sand, and some grounding works etc.

    Thanks every one. I think next time update cast photo will be my casted parts then. but I'm afraid need to wait some days.



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    Thanks for the pictures Skyfire!

    I will be paying close attention to this build!



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    excellent thread this is! keep up the good work



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    Hi guys. sorry for not update for several day. I've been very busy recently. I've seleceted one casting factory and will sen the molds to them in 2-3days. I hope can solve the machining issues there as well. I will update pictures then.

    Thanks to The Blight and HOM3R j4y. Cheers~~



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    Hi Skyfire,
    Any update on your project? I want to know your casting results. Thanks.



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    Hi Skyfire,
    Any update on your project? I want to know your casting results. Thanks.

    Last edited by asuratman; 09-14-2011 at 02:56 AM. Reason: Moderator can delete this post since it is double post


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    He hasn't logged in since 8/18.



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    Really an intersting tread, to bad it stopped here.



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    Hi guys who read this thread before. I'm sorry for not updating my thread for over a year for many reasons of busy working. I think maybe this thread has been forgot but I just get some time because of CNY break time. So I will continue the unfinished work and make it to the end as promissed. so sorry again.

    seems some of my former pictures of the mold building has expired now. but actually I have casted the machine structure parts one year ago together with our other casting parts. so they are actually stored for very long time. so I think the casting are actually very stable now. It's a good thing for castings of machine make me some comfortable. So the heat treating progress can be skiped now. I will directly do the machining process now.



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Show how to build a CNC machine from the very beginning to the end

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