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Thread: Show how to build a CNC machine from the very beginning to the end

  1. #13
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    Hallo Skyfire.This is fascinating.It looks like it will be a great machine.Nothing
    commercial this size currently has linear guides.Can you tell us the weight of the
    castings for head,column and base.Will you also cast the table yourself ?Please
    keep posting.Thanks, Robert.



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    Quote Originally Posted by hesham morsy View Post
    interesting build
    keep up the update pictures coming
    nice work
    Thanks, I'm planning to update some pictures today, but found my photo space is used up. I'm looking for another avaliable one now.



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    Quote Originally Posted by shedbob View Post
    Hallo Skyfire.This is fascinating.It looks like it will be a great machine.Nothing
    commercial this size currently has linear guides.Can you tell us the weight of the
    castings for head,column and base.Will you also cast the table yourself ?Please
    keep posting.Thanks, Robert.
    Hi, thanks for your comments. I think this size machine is not as commercial as bigger machines. But it's the machine I wanted to build by my hand for long time. I had some experience on bigger machines and I'm working on them now too. In this thread I want a table CNC can be put on desk and can do some small hard precision works that small routers can't do. The size is just a little bigger than SIEG X2. So maybe you want to build a higher end table CNC, it's fitful plan. Or I think maybe some place like labs, small metal workshop like jewelry etc will need such small but precision cnc machines.

    Sure, I can share the weight. Refering to PTC colculating, the weight are:
    head:12KG / 26.5lbs
    column:15KG / 33lbs
    base: 18KG / 40lbs

    I can't cast the parts by myself. It will need many other resources. I will send the molds to a casting factory for casting parts after I finish them. I think I may take some photos there to share with you guys.

    Last edited by Skyfire; 07-31-2011 at 05:48 AM.


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    I get another usable photo gallery now. These several photos were taken in the putty works. This process is necessory for fixing small damages and round corners. Sharp corners are not good for casting process. It will cause sand fall down when filling in liquid iron. What's more, it will cause stress in the corner may cause frame transform or even broken.










    Last edited by Skyfire; 07-31-2011 at 05:33 AM.


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    It is good for our thread here if you also put some picture of casting process with sand. Si it will be a complete thread that none ever done before in here.



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    Quote Originally Posted by asuratman View Post
    It is good for our thread here if you also put some picture of casting process with sand. Si it will be a complete thread that none ever done before in here.
    Thanks asuratman, I will complete the whole process here and show many pictures. I think it may take 2-3 month to finish all works. I've done some ground works today after putty dry. I think the painted mold will be finished after 2-3days.



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    okey, these are several grounded parts. look better now? It's really a dirty and boring work to ground putty off especially from the small corners. but smooth and plane surface is important for casting process. Rough molds are difficult to pull out from sand and often cause bad casting surface, even crack the sand box and make the casting failure.











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    Quote Originally Posted by Skyfire View Post
    I think it may take 2-3 month to finish all works.
    If "finish all works" means this mill is fully operational in 3 months it would be a great achievement. Building this machine is currently your main activity ?

    Anyone who says "It only goes together one way" has no imagination.


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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclestart View Post
    If "finish all works" means this mill is fully operational in 3 months it would be a great achievement. Building this machine is currently your main activity ?
    Thanks cyclestart. This building will take about half of my time during the term. I also have other more important machine project go together now. I've prepared this small project for long time, so the finishing time will mostly depend on the machining process. Thank you for your comment.



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    I'm surprised you're not building the plugs with a cnc router. Seems like that maybe your next project! With one you could, of course, mill the necessary radii & tapers for easy release from the mold. You would still have to do the final finish step for any voids in the wood (unless you went to a machinable plastic).

    Will the plugs be for production, or do you make a mold of them and use them as a 'master'?

    They look very uniform in color, I'm assuming you completely sealed them with something?

    Looking forward to the casting process, would also like to know about the sand and furnace!



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    Quote Originally Posted by rocketflier View Post
    I'm surprised you're not building the plugs with a cnc router. Seems like that maybe your next project! With one you could, of course, mill the necessary radii & tapers for easy release from the mold. You would still have to do the final finish step for any voids in the wood (unless you went to a machinable plastic).

    Will the plugs be for production, or do you make a mold of them and use them as a 'master'?

    They look very uniform in color, I'm assuming you completely sealed them with something?

    Looking forward to the casting process, would also like to know about the sand and furnace!

    Thanks rocketflier. I did the building without any router or mill. I just had to split them into wood pieces that can be build with simple tools. Then I glued them together with white latex to take shape. Of course, it will need careful planing and grounding works to fit the size. So the latex has filled the voids and that's why it looks like a whole thing.

    Yes I do have a plan to build a cnc wood router sometime. That will make the building faster and easier to set the radii and tapers. The current woods actually has tapers already, I just wire lines on the woods and planed or grounded the radii and tapers. Next I will do the necessory painting and then the molds are usable.

    I think even for production, the current wood mold will be fine. But because wood is easy to transform under hot and wet conditions in casting workroom, wood molds can only support around decades of castings. It's life also depending on wood material and frame stifness, glue stifness, paining seals etc. I don't know if I would sell many of this machine. If necessory, I will turn to aluminium molds for long term production. And you are right, wood ones are the "master".

    The color looks uniform because the surfaces have been carefully grounded and all small voids have white latex or putty to fill in. they have similiar color, so it looks like a whole white thing.

    Thank you for your comments again. I will introduce some sand and furnace items when casting.

    Regards



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    No personal offense, but:
    I fear you are going to early from drawing to a cast:
    I mostly see straight wooden plates and too few taper angles as you mentioned.
    Apparently, you tilted the plates, but the internal ribs look like straight plates.
    It will be quite difficult to implement all the internal radii with filler.
    In some areas the material is much thicker than in others, which will likely cause distortion in the cast. Consider beefing up the ribs to make them as thick as the walls.
    The weight of the head doesn’t appear to be a match for the z-motor size. Have you done calculations or tests? Keep in mind, most data you get is the holding torque of a stepper, not the dynamic load. Do you have the efficiency data of Z lead screw?
    I can’t detect any wiring of motors and limit switches in the drawing. If not implemented in the design, than you may need a hole here and there where there isn’t.
    You mentioned coolant later to be added. So you’ll need skirts and covers for your linear bearings and ball screws. If not already implemented in the design, I fear, it will either not look pretty or skirts will leak against the iron cast.
    There are no fasteners in your design, so I do assume you'll drill and tap holes later. I find this quite risky as you may oversee one or the other screw head can't be reached or needed to be counter sunk.



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Show how to build a CNC machine from the very beginning to the end

Show how to build a CNC machine from the very beginning to the end