Hey CR, this is a question that is over asked. But I have always respected your work so wanted to hear your answer. Why steppers over servos?
Final mounting of G540 & PSU:
To install wing nuts on G540 rack mount, would have meant having to empty and remove drawers. Drywall screws were easier. May install wing nuts later--OR not. Did I mention that crate strapping is wonderful stuff?
Electronics bay:
This area is well away from swarf, and located under up-tilted end of coolant basin. Coolant should never reach here. Just in case though, these electronics will have a galvanized steel umbrella-shield overhead.
The Lathe Estop switch will double-duty for both spindle and electronics.
Now to add motor mounts, steppers, index sensor, spindle relay and home switches. These components will be wired as installed.
CR.
Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-10-2010 at 09:47 AM.
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Hey CR, this is a question that is over asked. But I have always respected your work so wanted to hear your answer. Why steppers over servos?
Hi Matt! This question could be a whole new thread. (You should start one) I really don't want this thread to wander off-topic to such a controversial subject, but I'll answer you:
Just speaking for me, but:
Half the cost and complexity, (There is no SERVO G540) easy setup/installation--properly sized & Volted steppers have plenty of power/speed and do NOT lose steps. IMO, servos are not really necessary for our small non-industrial projects.
CR.
Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-10-2010 at 10:12 AM.
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Don't be too sure about swarf not getting to your electronics. Swarf gets everywhere.
You are making great progress - good on you.
There is a servo drive roughly equivalent to the G540. The Uservo breakout board with it's Uservos fitted is similar.
It has the spindle interface to a VFD, and even adds a pair of line voltage relays, whereas the G540 only has smaller DC relays.
http://www.shop.cncdrive.com/index.php?productID=157
I have brought one from CNCdrive.hu, and they were very quick to answer questions and ship. I have a set of Yasgawa 50W servos which are a good match, but haven't had a chance to set it up and test it yet.
Regards,
Mark
Thanks Mark!
That uservo board looks interesting.
I have been away for a few days. Should be back on the project tomorrow.
CR.
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Just some thoughts:
Not everyone has a mill. I'm going to try to make at least the Stage ONE conversion using only the lathe and a drill press. So the next parts I make will be the ones that have to be turned before the manual controls are disassembled. Not that it would be very hard at any part of Stage one to revert to manual control.
Before doing even THOSE parts though, my ways are crying out for a swarf cover.
CR.
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Now I can use the lathe for some manual turning, drilling and threading.
Will have to temporarily bag up, or remove, the electronics though.
CR.
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I used the mitre saw to cut some blanks. Could as easily have been a hacksaw:
They actually came out close enough in length that they could have been used as-is. But that would not be very workmanlike:
The cut edge is just a little rough:
Best to face them up and they were cut a little long to allow for this. Here are all of the standoffs. Both sides are faced, centerdrilled, chamfered and ready for drilling/tapping from each side:
The new way cover is excellent at catching swarf. Click on this video to watch:
CR.
Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-15-2010 at 06:17 PM.
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The standoffs are finished. Here's one of them with its through-bolt:
I used the mitre saw to rough cut the stepper frontplates:
CR.
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Good stuff. I like that you are taking this stepped approach to the conversion even though it gets you to your ultimate goal a bit more slowly. I think this thread will be a valuable resource for a long time.
bob
Thanks Bob! Yep, that's the idea. I hope so. Here's some more:
The stepper frontplates and mechanical drive parts (Even the long bolts) will transfer to stage 2 & 3. Alas, the standoffs will not.
Made this motor template from some scrap plastic, which had previously been used as a paint guide, but waste not want not. Just:
1) Drill a 1/4 inch hole in the center of plastic.
2) Fit motor shaft through.
3) Scribe bolt holes and outside of motor mount frame.
4) Drill and Cut:
Apply template and mark through with scribe:
This template will be used for Stage 2 also.
Ok, we're theoretically doing Stage One without a CNC mill. (Or boring head) Just the lathe and a drill press--so how do we bore the needed 1 1/8 inch hole through 1/4 inch 6061 aluminum?
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Why with a 1 1/8 inch spade bit of course. They also come in stubby size if you don't have much height, and that is actually the better buy--More rigid:
First time it cuts like butter, second time almost as easy. Third time a little harder. Towards the end of this video, I increased the speed from 500 to 1200 RPM. Gotta love a variable speed drill press. Click on this video to watch:
A spade bit always leaves a little circle. The smoke you see at the end is that little cut-out disk turning friction-heat against the wood spoil base under it.
CAUTION: DON'T TRY THIS WITH A HAND DRILL. MAKE SURE WORK IS SECURED FIRMLY IN A VISE. WEAR EYE PROTECTION!
CR.
Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-15-2010 at 06:23 PM.
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Drilled and tapped some 10-24 holes into motor mount:
Motor mounted up with standoffs. Through-bolts are 10x24x2 inch with lock washers under screw heads:
CR.
Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-16-2010 at 02:30 PM. Reason: Bolt size
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Here's the completed Stage One Z stepper mount with mounting holes drilled for 1/4-20 screws:
CR.
Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-16-2010 at 07:48 PM.
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Just got a call from UPS... Maybe mine will be in tomorrow... Will be a while before I can start to CNC it, but this is helpful information.
Congratulations Magnum! You have bought a terrific lathe. Hope it arrives all in one piece. I reckon you can use the uncrate & teardown info first:
http://crevicereamer.com/Page_86.html
CR.
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This label will have to be removed:
Someday, a One Touch Oiler pump will live here.
There are two metal screws and also adhesive. Either remove the screws or chop off their heads flush. The label is peeled off carefully and installed to left side of base. The heat treatment referenced is only the ways. The label area is not hardened and is easy to drill.
First, the mount is clamped lightly to the lathe:
The motor shaft is inserted into the connector but is not tightened down. The mount is moved around until square to the lathe base, (Use a small square underneath) and connector is concentric to the large hole--then the clamp to the base is tightened.
Make sure the connector is straight and not flexed.
Make sure the mount is not high enough to prevent removal of the tailstock.
Now a transfer punch is used to mark the hole locations:
CR.
Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-17-2010 at 09:38 AM.
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Time to drill some number 7 holes, while keeping them straight:
Here are some nice straight holes. All but one are straight through, and that one exception is about one inch deep. The hole pattern is calculated both to be in the most meat and to allow the frontplate to be used later for stage two:
My $10 HF SAE tap set has certainly earned its keep. It shows no sign yet of anything wearing out. (Ditto for the $10 Metric set) Here it is tapping some 1/4-20 holes:
Again, the idea is to be careful and keep the tap straight. Next to clean everything up with a paper towel and some rubbing alcohol--or WD-40:
CR.
Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-18-2010 at 07:39 PM. Reason: Add pics
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Let's bolt her up with some 1/4-20 x 3/4 inch socket head screws:
CR.
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Making good progress there CR.
How are you planning to do the motor cabling and connectors? On Z I have mine ugly and temporary (since 2004 .
On X I used one of those little cast aluminium electrical housings, attached with two M3 screws into the Motor end housing. Worked really well, I have simple terminal strip connecting the motor wires to the cable, which exits down a conduit. Keeps all the swarf out well.
Regards,
Mark
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