G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION

[Starleper1]

But I WOULD! It's NOT just a collection of 250s! The G540 CIRCUITRY, combined with the G250s, makes the G540 EQUAL to 4 G203Vs if each are running at 3.5A and 48V. At 3.5A and 48V, performance would be the same.

That's why I said if you have the proper motor to utilize the full 80V/7A it can deliver. You are right though if you must run your motors at a lower voltage, you can't beat the G540. I have one on my mill and love it.

My PM25MV though is going to get fitted with the latest from the stepper line at Gecko. G201X. I really like the new feature with being able to set everything on DIP switches internally. No need for external capacitors or current set resistors. I like that a lot.

~Scott

[Enraged]

another advantage of the G540 is that you have 2 extra controllers, so if you choose to make an automated turret or something down the road, no need to buy more stuff.

[Crevice Reamer]

My PM25MV though is going to get fitted with the latest from the stepper line at Gecko. G201X. I really like the new feature with being able to set everything on DIP switches internally. No need for external capacitors or current set resistors. I like that a lot.

~Scott

You'd BETTER like it a lot. It will cost you plenty. IMO, resistor or DIP setting are fairly inconsequential--Once done, rarely messed with again.

Me, I would use G540, K381s & K906 on the PM25. Solder the 3.48K resistors, forget about it, enjoy the easy installation. Then I would apply the $329+ savings to tooling etc.

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

another advantage of the G540 is that you have 2 extra controllers, so if you choose to make an automated turret or something down the road, no need to buy more stuff.

Yep! Good point ER.

CR.

[Starleper1]

I can tell your a big fan of the G540 Crevice.

[Crevice Reamer]

I can tell your a big fan of the G540 Crevice.

Ha! Ha! Are you saying I'm biased Scott?

Yep for sure!

Professional quality and performance at hobby prices, Plug & Play--Tremendous value--What's not to love? Kudos to Mariss for this ingenious and revolutionary product!

Today it can efficiently run up to an (S)X3, (surely a G0704 also) and almost any size router. Now if we only had a 1200 oz 3.5A 48V stepper, it could run about ANYTHING!

CR.

[Starleper1]

Ha! Ha! Are you saying I'm biased Scott?

Nooo not at all...

One thing I like about Mariss is that he's willing to help no matter what the situation is. One time I was having issues with a Keling power supply. I just happened to be on the horn with him about some G320X servo drives I was having issues with and I asked him about the power supply and he was more then willing to help me out, even though it wasn't his product. Nice guy.

~Scott

[Crevice Reamer]

Before going further, I have to correct some omissions.

1. I decided to cut a motor-adjustment slot into the apron, (Instead of cutting off the rear motor-shaft) because I don't plan to ever use the apron again after stage 2. It IS possible that I might want to use the motor again, so I didn't want to cut off the shaft. YOU might opt to do it differently.

2. No connector was installed at Z axis stepper end of motor cable. Since this is a temporary connection for me, the wires were just spliced, heat-shrunk, then tucked inside the conduit. A connector would be required for long-term use:


3. The rack was removed from the lathe base. It did not NEED to be removed until stage 2. I removed it early, while on my quest to eliminate the Z axis rattle. The rack was not the cause of the rattle.

The rack is held by both screws and roll pins. So first you drive out the roll pins, and then remove the screws:


4. I used Loctite on the brass screws that hold the Z Homes sensor to its mount:


5. I did not mention or photograph how the holes for X front plate were marked on the apron. The plate is clamped to the apron and holes transfer punched. I have reenacted that for these photos.




6. I left out a step back when doing all the lathe work before disconnecting manual control. The X pulley needs to be bored out to fit the X screw:


I can still use X manual control and Mach3 jog control for Z, to bore out this pulley. First though, I will drill a keyway slot into the pulley to fit this shaft:


CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

Let's make the X axis drive pulley. It has to fit this shaft and key:


The stock pulley has a 1/4" bore and no keyway:


Measure the shaft and key dimensions. To make the keyway, we drill a key-sized hole centered on the edge of the new shaft diameter:


Next, the bore is drilled to within a few thousandths of desired size:




And then bored to the final diameter. The pulley hub has also been turned slightly to exactly fit the X axis thrust bearing:


The new keyway fits perfectly, and here is pulley installed on X shaft:




I need to get a smaller nut for the shaft.

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

Hooked up the drill & pulleys like this:




About 40 IPM.

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

Let's install the X motor terminal strip.

First we must remove the Z manual wheel. That involves punching out a roll pin:



And gently prying the wheel from the shaft:


The terminal strip was tapped 8-32--Again with cheap HF tap set:


And attached inside the apron:


With screws through 2 holes drilled in apron:


This terminal strip will connect the X motor and X/Z home switches to cable harness. When finished, it will have a little plastic hood over it for protection.

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

Lets install the X axis motor conduit.

Everything attached to the backsplash must be adjustable during lathe leveling process, so first some slots are cut:


These slots will allow the top conduit tee to be mounted:




The cross conduit is installed:


A threaded pipe cap is drilled to fit cable protector:


Finished X axis motor conduit:


CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

Here's some more X wiring and conduit pics:






Let's prepare the x motor for mounting, by tapping the mount holes for attachment screws:




CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

APRON WIRING GUIDE (As seen from the front:

Sensor red & black terminals each will have double wires.
B+-RED---------B/-BLUE---------A+-BLACK-----A/-GREEN-------24V+-RED-------NEG-BLACK------ZHM-----------XHM
|<------------------STEP MOTOR WIRES---------------->|<------------------SENSOR WIRES-------------------->|
0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0

0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0
6---------------7---------------8---------------9--------------24V-------------NEG----------INPUT2----------INPUT3
|RED---------WHITE----------BLACK----------GREEN-----|------RED------------BLACK---------GREEN----------WHITE|
|<-------------PAIR------------>|::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::|<----PAIR----->|:::::::::::::::::|<-----PAIR---->|
:::::::::::::::::::|<-----------PAIR------------->|
TWO SHIELDED CABLES


CR.

[whitehedr]

Just the info I was looking for CR. Thanks!!!!

RWW

[Crevice Reamer]

Let's wire up the inputs to the apron terminal strip:

Here's the shielded cable:


Ready to wire it up:


The input half of the strip is now wired & wire-tie strain relief installed:


From the other side:


The completed unit:


The X stepper, Z home and X home will wire into the other half of the strip.

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

Let's mount the X home switch:




When the little button is depressed, the switch will activate:






With everything temporarily set in place, it looks like this:


The switch will be protected from coolant with a rubber shroud.

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

The $10 X home switch does not come with wiring attached. In fact, you have to order the switch, the wiring connector and the PINS for the wiring connector separately. The pins come from Digikey on a belt, like machine gun cartridges:


I'd sure like to see that being fabricated. To get a pin from the belt, you just wiggle one end loose:


And then break off the other end. The pins are equipped with one crimp for wire and another for strain relief on wire insulation. They have little barbs that lock into the connector:


Here are all the parts of the switch:


For wire, I'm using shielded motor cable with the white and drain wires cut off:


First the pins are crimped onto the wire:


And then soldered. The switch is marked for +, -, and output:


Then the pins slide into connector and lock. Finished connector:


Finished switch wiring:


This type of Hall Effect switch has the tiny magnet, and electronics, buried deep within the switch body. There is NO magnetic attraction evident on OUTSIDE of switch. This switch is apparently absolutely safe to use around ferrous metal swarf.

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

Here's the wired X home switch attached to mount:


Final X stepper wiring:


Final Z home switch wiring:


Final apron terminal strip wiring:


The terminal strip is protected by a plastic shroud:




And mounted under the apron:


The switch outputs are connect directly to G540 inputs at other end of X cable, along with +/- 24V. The shielding drain wire is heat-shrinked and connected to the negative terminal:




CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

The X motor must be protected from coolant, so I made a "milk-carton" cover:




CR.