Reply with QuoteDid you find out what motors are on there?
Al.
15' long 8' wide Ex-Boeing CNC *REBUILD*
PICTURES & specs will be uploaded tonight!
Purchased last Tuesday, want it up and running by the end of summer.
Main intent purpose, Cutting aluminum sheet (.063").
I will need everyones guidance and 2 cents on this rebuild! Should make for a awesome summer project!
-Thanks
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Did you find out what motors are on there?
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
Diy did you stop on your other project?
The other project is 99% done engineering wise in solidworks. Just needed to make spacers that harness the ballnuts to the table to transfer motion, which takes 2 seconds. This deal was to good to pass up, so my funds and time are now 100% on this.
Have not taken the servo plates off yet, just finished cleaning the entire machine, gutting the old wires and vacuum hoses, and cleaning, cleaning, cleaning lol. Oh and it took me a few days because i citric acid bathed 14 individual linear rails. They turned out PERFECTOriginally Posted by Al_The_Man
These are the current pictures, after i cleaned the entire machine, gutted out the old vacuum hoses, and all of the old electrical wire. I took off 14 linear rails, 7 on each side and acid bathed them for 24 hours. The results were amazing! I will submit a before and after picture in my next post.
I currently need to dig into the gantry. In "Image 9275", The 2 aluminum plates each house a servo on the other side. The left servo connects to the ballscrew via a belt and the right servo connects to the very large black gear which is connnected to a toothed pinion gear that meshes with the linear rails. If you look even closer there are two very large black flat headed screws on the left and the far right. each houses a bearing, one above the linear rail, and one below the rail. The unit has an addition bearing which is in clear plain site (in front of the black gear, below the large gold gear).
My plan is to take out the ballscrew, citric acid bath it for 24 hours to remove all surface rust, re-oil. If possible purchase all new bearings for the ball screw along with the ones behind the black screws and in plain sight. replace and and all old hardware/parts and citric acid bath whatever i come across that needs it. Then repaint entire gantry (since it will be in pieces anyways).
Question though, if i remove the ballscrew and i take the "Ballnut" off will all the ball bearings come spilling out, or are they locked in there?
Here is a few pictures before the machine was cleaned, rails acid bathed, and new rail hardware installed (84 bolts).
Monster rust.
Bathed them all for 24 hours in a 35 gallon commercial grade plastic trash can. I used 5 pounds of organic citric acid (100% edible) + hot tap water. Wire brushed once after 12 hours, and once again at the 24 hour mark. Towel dried them off, then used compressed air to blow them off, then used a propane torch to 100% dry them. Then applied machine oil to them.
diyengineer,
Some of the surfaces look "discolored", is this a surface staining or is there any pitting? Results look impresive though.
Keep the pictures coming!
Randy,
I may not be good....
But I am S L O W!!
The citric acid bath is clear, but when exposed to oxidized metal like rust it turns BRIGHT NEON YELLOW. The bath leaves a hue of yellow on the surface, almost like a light anodized sort of look.
There are some other discolored spots but there is no surface damage at all (pitting), i think its just where the rust left a weird visual stain effect. Pretty impressive results considering the citric acid is 100% organic and edible haha! It cost me about $20 dollars buying it in bulk from the local heath food store.
If all else goes well i will probably break down and pay to get them hard chrome plated or professionally anodized in the future.
They will come out if you wind the nut off, the tubes you see are reloading tubes, it looks like someone has taped them.
Carefully save the balls if you take them apart, there may be two sizes that are fed in alternatively when you reload the nut.
Or order new ones if they are pitted.
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEAhYIrSh_w"]YouTube- CNC Rebuild Video #1[/nomedia]
Just uploaded this to youtube, view in 720P for a better picture.
Thought i would try my Flip UltraHd camera out cause its so small and easy to upload to youtube.
Anyways maybe someone can help me out with ideas on how to get that gear off.
*forgot to mention, the large black gear is not metal, its some sort of ABS like plastic*
Last edited by diyengineer; 04-14-2010 at 12:13 AM.
From the video it definitely appears to be a taper lock pulley.
Normally you take the clamping screws out and then use the same screws in the front plate to drive the taper out by screwing them into the open holes, you may have to do this on the back side if there are extra holes on the back or it maybe the front ones that separate it, depending on the design.
See page D6 for the idea.
http://www.martinsprocket.com/2001/SecDa.pdf#D24
Al.
Last edited by Al_The_Man; 04-14-2010 at 11:26 AM.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
I took 3 screws out from the backside, which i thought held the small metal ring to the large black gear. They came out but it didn't loosen up at all. It almost looks as if they used some kind of puller previously on it since they have a centered hole in the shaft and the metal ring is slightly banged up.
I will try to drive those 3 screws in from the front and see if it does anything, when they were in they back the bolt the plastic gear to the metal hub, but i believe the metal hub is what is in contact with the actual pinion gear, and the gear is pressed to the metal hub. pinion gear==>hub==>black gear.
I will investigate more and return.
I think you will find the centre hole in the shaft is used in its manufacture for centring.
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
Sprayed the gear down with WD40. The black gear is held on with 3 little screws and a clamp. With the 3 screws out and the clamp loosened i was able to push the black gear in away from the metal hub about a 1/3". I then used a 5 ton gear/pulley puller and it popped right out with minimal effort.
Now i have the right motor out which is the one that drives the gantry (y axis).
Take a peek and let me know what you think. Its a monster.
Video #2
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7XIRgnR6m8"]YouTube- CNC Rebuild Video #2[/nomedia]
Video #3
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aI2t8TArpcg"]YouTube- CNC Rebuild Video #3[/nomedia]
The motors pose a bit of an enigma, there does not seem to be any feedback component, unless they are on another shaft of the machine, you could measure the resistance between all the conductors, also if the drives are there, this could fill in the blanks as to what the technology is of the motor.
When you turned it by hand, it did not seem to have any indent effect on the shaft?
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
Both motors turn very easily by hand, each motor feels like it takes a consistent SUPER SMALL "step" or "indent" whiles its being turned. It doesn't obviously give off a noise, but you can feel the "steps or indents" in your hand. Both appear to be in good condition just covered in a oil film and dust. Video #5 will show the electronics cabinet that came with the machine.
Video #4
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81xR8ZlH7OM"]YouTube- CNC Rebuild Video #4[/nomedia]
The rotary plate on the end appears to be a damper, these were/are used on stepper motors.
Going by the apparent age of the machine, they could be some kind of old style AC synchronous motors.
If there is any info on the drives, this could supply the answer.
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
Video #5
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Ua1s_K4k58"]YouTube- CNC Rebuild Video #5[/nomedia]
Electronics cabinet:
Gerber Scientific Instrument Model 3200 serial #381
Inside the cabinet:
Cipher Data Products International
Model # F880340-96-1525U
Part # 966219-001
Option B
Density: 3200/1600
Speed: 100/50/25 IPS
V: 100/120/220/240
Hz: 50/60
I also found a sticker on it "Bauratt Gepruft Rheinland".
"As of April 24, 1990, Cipher Data Products, Inc. was acquired by Archive Corporation. Cipher Data Products, Inc. manufactures high-capacity 1/2' tape drive systems and related electronic storage devices. The company is based in San Diego, California."
^ found online..
If its a monster hassle in getting these old guys to work i would rather just buy new. What size of stepper or servo would you suggest? I love overkill. The simplicity of the steppers though are nice.
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