Old Regular UHU (for 60V to 80V and less) - Page 4

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Thread: Old Regular UHU (for 60V to 80V and less)

  1. #61
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    Hi to everyone !

    Please i need some help.
    I was looking at the parts list & saw that i had recieved the wrong part# for the P6KE12CA diodes... instead of P6KE12CA i recieved P6KE15CA.

    So my question is obvious :
    1) Is it possible to use P6KE15CA instead of P6KE12CA on the old UHU board dated 23-10-2005 & how will it affect the circuit ?

    EDIT:
    I've attached a snapshot of the datasheet & it's a gibberish to me due to my POOR knowledge of electronics.

    Thanks !
    cnc2.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Old Regular UHU (for 60V to 80V and less)-p6ke12ca-jpg  
    Last edited by cnc2; 08-11-2009 at 07:47 PM.


  2. #62
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    Default P6KE15CA

    Hey,
    I hope H.O. or someone who knows what their talking about will jump in here. From what little I know they should interchange with no problem. you may have to do a little creative bending with the leads. the only stat that I'm unsure about is the Max clamping voltage 21.2 vis 16.7. all the other specifications mean a more substantial component.(I think)
    Hope this helps
    Paul



  3. #63
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    Thanks for the help Paul !

    I'll try to PM H.O and see.

    Paul tell me what do you mean by "creative bending", do you mean the 15CA are bigger than the 12CA ?

    Thanks !
    cnc2.



  4. #64
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    Hello,
    I'm quite confused actually....The schematic that you linked to in your other thread shows P6KE120CA.

    IF 12CA is what is supposed to be there then you can probably use 15CA if that's what you got but if it indeed should be 120CA as the schematic says then you most likely can't use 15CA.



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    Thumbs up

    Thanks for the help Henrik !

    I re-checked the schematic & i can read P6KE12CA, i agree that the C looks like a Zero (120A) zoom it to 600% then it'll apear as a C. It's more readable on the parts layout on the PCB.

    Thanks to you, i'm happy to be able to use the 15CA i've recieved

    Thanks !
    cnc2.



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    Ah, that clears it up a bit :-) Then you can probably use the 15CA safely - although I can't say for sure. Good luck!



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    Thanks for the help Henrik,

    i've finally found that the assembly instructions use the 15CA, so now i'm sure it's safe & working.

    Thanks !
    cnc2.



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    Hi guys,

    I need some help on the color of the LEDs on the UHU board.
    I don't remember why i ordered 6red +3green +3yellow
    I know there's a green LED for +5V, a yellow one on I-lim & a red one for error but i have no idea about the color of the LED for H-On & what it means when it lights ?

    So if you have the answer or can point me on a user's manual, it would really help me.

    Thanks !
    cnc2.



  9. #69
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    The color doesn't matter - red, green, yellow, take your pick - anything will work.

    I think that the H-On LED you mentioned is the Ready signal from the servo controler chip. It'll turn on as soon as the chip has "booted up".

    /Henrik.



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    Thanks for the reply Henrik !

    The color doesn't matter - red, green, yellow, take your pick - anything will work.
    I ain't that dumb man ! especially after you explained me how to feed LEDs

    Nevermind, i agree i heared that some colors used a bit more current than others but the reason i asked the question about colors is that i don't want to search for the meaning of the red LEDs (if two onboard) every time one of them lights up.

    After your explanation it'll be two green LEDs for H-On & +5V(to mean everything is ok) a red one for error (to mean encoder signal problem) & a yellow one for I-lim (means doesn't bother me too much)

    Thanks for the HELP !
    cnc2.



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    Default EAS UHU board error light

    I purchase and built 3 UHU boards from Embedded Acquisition Systems. Two of the boards work fine. The third though is giving me a headache. I keep getting the error LED as soon as I power up the board. It immediately comes back on after a reset. The tuning display shows a lot of errors from the encoder even though nothing is connected. I only have the 12V power and the serial cable connected at this time. Any suggestions as to cause would be very welcomed.



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    Default Tooth (timing) belt to drive - problem ?

    I have repair old machine and added UHU controller. Both axis are driven by tooth belt. During summer days it works fine, but now I have problem with longer axe. There is lot of overruns (about 120 on 10 repeat G0 X2000,GO X0). Error is about 2 mm. Shorter axis has length about 1.8m and encoder is attached at motor shaft. X belt is about 3 meter and encoder is attached to belt using timing pulley. I suppose problem is belt and temperature, but I don't know how to check and solve it.
    Does anybody has experience with such long timing belt?



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    kodalo,

    Can you tell me at what step frequency and motor voltage you are driving the UHU board? From your post I understood that your encoder is not mounted directly on the motor, but through the timing belt, is that right?

    If the encoder is not enough temperature stabilized this could lead to changes in the pulse widths maybe between summer/now time. It is strange, cause now is colder, I thought high temps tend to be the problem for electronics.

    As for jjobezo, check that something is not shorted around the emergency-in pin. If it is grounded surely you will get the result you are saying.

    Greetings,

    Todor

    UPDATE: The encoder input is pulled-up with resistors, but somehow you get a high noise level that counts false pulses. The error led will also light when the max deviation from the position is exceeded.



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    Default

    If you're getting O-counts then you most likely have noise on the encoder signals or you're trying to run faster than what the UHU-chip can keep up with so it misses pulses. Why this works in the summer but not now is the question and Todor might be onto something even if it's a longshot.

    The length of the belt shouldn't have anything to do with it.....Or, perhaps...if the belt expands with temperature and it is now colder it means there's more tension on the mechanics which means the motor needs to work harder which pulls more current and might produce more noise that gets injected in the encoder cables/circuitry. Another loooong shot....

    Try to think about if you've changed anything on the machine or if you added anything to the shop that might induce noise in the cables. Fluorecent lights, variable frequency drive etc.... Are you using shielded cables for the encoders, shield connected to GND at the drive?

    What type of encoder, any datasheet for it?

    And finally, regarding the error-LED, Todor is correct - the drive will fault and light the Error-LED when max error is exceeded. However, that relies on the fact that the encoder signal integrity is OK which it seems isn't in this case here so the drive doesn't know the TRUE position.

    /Henrik.

    EDIT: Ahh, I see, the comment on the error-LED might be targeted at jjobezo.....



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    Quote Originally Posted by H.O View Post
    If you're getting O-counts then you most likely have noise on the encoder signals or you're trying to run faster than what the UHU-chip can keep up with so it misses pulses. Why this works in the summer but not now is the question and Todor might be onto something even if it's a longshot.
    I have tried to decrease speed, but result is same.


    The length of the belt shouldn't have anything to do with it.....Or, perhaps...if the belt expands with temperature and it is now colder it means there's more tension on the mechanics which means the motor needs to work harder which pulls more current and might produce more noise that gets injected in the encoder cables/circuitry. Another loooong shot....
    I changed belt tension, but nothing....

    Try to think about if you've changed anything on the machine or if you added anything to the shop that might induce noise in the cables. Fluorecent lights, variable frequency drive etc.... Are you using shielded cables for the encoders, shield connected to GND at the drive?
    Environment is absolutely same, nothing added, nothing removed. All cables are shielded at very beginning.
    What type of encoder, any datasheet for it?
    I dont have any datasheet, but oscilloscope show normal shapes.



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    Quote Originally Posted by LZ1TWB View Post

    Can you tell me at what step frequency and motor voltage you are driving the UHU board? From your post I understood that your encoder is not mounted directly on the motor, but through the timing belt, is that right?
    Motor is 110V nominal, but I am using 88V, since higher voltage leads to high oscillations.


    As for jjobezo, check that something is not shorted around the emergency-in pin. If it is grounded surely you will get the result you are saying.
    What exactly you think? I suppose in that case, Error LED will light always??



    The error led will also light when the max deviation from the position is exceeded.
    Error LED is OK, and don't lights.



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    Yes, the error LED will light always, but that is not your case. I was thinking about something else before.

    From my experience the UHU chip is rather sensitive to encoder signal pulse widths and counts more errors when it doesn't like them. My encoders have pots on every line - A,B,C so the pulse width can be precisely adjusted with a scope and I had the opportunity to "play" a little with this feature.

    Henrik is right that you search for a change in the machine setup. Even if you haven't done anything a short-circuit or a loose connection is still a change though. Have you checked the brushes?

    Another thing - do you have a differential connection to the encoder or it is done the simpler way?

    Todor



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    Smile

    Problem is solved (I hope )

    Some people on some forums says the Intel can be problematic. But I think, since one motor works fine it is not true for me. I have tried DriverTest.exe and got lot of "piano keys". I change CPU, take AMD ant test again. DriverTest gave me flat line (well, not exactly flat, but there is no piano-like). Then I have tried motor but there is O-error still. But when I start to change UHU parameters system is more cooperative (unlike Intel) and I quickly found good parameters. Now it works fine.

    CONCLUSION: Always check with DriverTest, piano-keys are very bad sign. And finally, AMD is the best !!!



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    Hi guys !

    I've found a local supplier for PMDC motors, I didn't see them yet but the guy told me he has 250W 500W & 1KW motors...I don't know if they're usable as servos yet (low no load current).

    I'd like to know what are the biggest motors being used with the old UHU without creating problems...What voltage/current ...etc.

    I'd like to buy the biggest motors i can afford, but i don't want to buy motors that are too big for the old UHU & waist my money.

    I think about building a mechmate like router out of steel beams...what do you think ?

    Thanks !
    cnc2.



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    Here is what I have posted some 4 years ago.

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...=fanuc&page=50 post #591

    These are my motors for Y and Z, the X motor is the same type, twice the rotor length, 5.4Nm, a heavy beast. PS voltage is 65V, I am now working at 5000mm/min max with a 10mm/round screws and 1024 pulses encoders.

    Calculated axis force at nominal torque of the small motor is around 170kg I think. More than enough for a wood work.

    Todor



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