Need Help! Controller won't power up


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Thread: Controller won't power up

  1. #1
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    Default Controller won't power up

    Just starting to go through the troubleshooting, figured I might be able to learn some steps here.

    Fired up my 1100 S3, loaded a routine, probed the part to set the coordinates. Pulled the probe, set to tool 0, then hit cycle start. As I recall, the proper tool loaded from the ATC, then the monitor went dead, mill stopped motion.

    I hit the E-stop, powered down the mill, then started it up again. The PP controller does not power up. The START button does power up the electrical panel, hear the "wump" of the contactor or whatever it is that kicks on in the electrical panel. The Machine green LED lights up, but the Computer LED does not. The Computer switch is in the ON position.

    I checked the fuses on the DC Bus board (all okay), and the two on the Machine control board (both okay). The DC bus board power LED is lit, as is the red power LED on the Machine control board. There are three fuses (as labeled in the manual) that set next to the 2 contactors. With the START button energized, the far right one has its red LED lit, but the other two are off.

    I unplugged the PathPilot computer and plugged it into a different power cord off-line (not hooked to the mill) and it did power up though there were a number of different "beeps" I'm not used to hearing.

    Any thoughts on next steps? I'll send an email to Tormach for their thoughts too.

    Next steps I can think of are to check the 115VAC power plug that should be turning on the PP controller (in the electrical panel).

    Also need to check (as I read the troubleshooting guide at our computer), fuses FU7 and FU3 which are above and below transformer XFM1.

    Thanks for any insights!

    Bruce

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    Default Re: Controller won't power up

    Quick update; have a temporary work-around. I powered up the PP controller and monitor through a separate extension cord and the mill fires up. Naturally, would prefer the computer and monitor to be powered by the electrical panel (coolant too), but I hit RESET and referenced the axes, so up and running again. This tells me the PP controller is fine, the communication line to the Tormach Machine Control board is fine. I've temporarily hooked up the coolant pump to a power strip so I can manually work the flood coolant. Gonna miss M8 and M9 really quickly!

    I'll work through the schematic on page 250. Lines 202/203 go to the COMPUTER switch, should be 115 there with the mill fired up and the switch in the on position. Looks like 200/201 are grounds/common coming in from the 115 inboard on the bottom I/O mount plate. Line 206 is input 115 and runs through the main Disconnect switch and 207 is 115V coming out of the disconn switch. That goes through fuse FU6 where it become line 202 on the outlet of the fuse.

    Hopefully I find just a loose wire someplace, but at least I can run the machine.

    Bruce



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    Default Re: Controller won't power up

    Bruce, check the 120 volt supply line, if I remember correctly it is separate from the 230 line that powers the machine,
    mine plugs into a seperate 120 volt outlet.

    mike sr


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    Quote Originally Posted by popspipes View Post
    Bruce, check the 120 volt supply line, if I remember correctly it is separate from the 230 line that powers the machine,
    mine plugs into a seperate 120 volt outlet.
    Thanks! 99% sure I have it figured out. Fuse FU6 (third one over from the contactors) was blown. This fuse protects the 115v circuit for the coolant pump, controller and the monitor.

    I hooked up my coolant pump to a wireless switch box and it wouldn't turn on. Direct plugged, no go either. Probably nuked the fuse with the pump which took out the controller and monitor too.

    My coolant pump was a 1/2 hp sump pump rated at about 3000 gph. The previous owner plumbed the output to a ball valve for flow control, then through a house water filter. Problem was I'm only running about 60 gph so really had the pump choked off.

    Replaced the pump with a 1/4 hp unit that runs directly to a garden hose "Y". One line runs to the ball valve, other to a hose that goes right back in my tank. Now the flow control ball valve regulates max flow at the spindle (have loc line valves for control too). If I choke it way down the pump is still happy pumping through the diverted hose.

    Need to order the 6 amp fuse to get back to normal. Presently running the monitor and controller off a separate circuit. Coolant is manually worked with a wireless switch.

    Bruce



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    Default Re: Controller won't power up

    Glad you got it figured out. I think a 1/2 hp pump is a bit large for the factory fuse, I upgraded mine to a 1/6 hp pump, the same as what was in there originally as I use an oil mix for coolant and it doesnt like some of the rubber/plastic parts and I was a bit skeptical of the sump pumps.

    edit: some of those centrifugal pumps draw less current when the discharge is blocked off, some the current increases as its restricted, it has to do with the way the vanes are on the impeller, its been awhile since I read up on that though.

    mike sr


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