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  1. #1

    Default New 1100M Owner Questions!

    My 1100M arrived about ten days ago and after fine tuning the setup i.e. leveling, squaring, tramming, etc. today I was able to run my first test part. It took me most of the day to machine the part mainly because I was learning Path Pilot along the way. No complaints with the results but a few questions.

    I initially had the roughing passes in 6061 set for a 3/8" 4 flute end mill at 1/2" DOC, .035 WOC, feedrate of 30 IPM and 7500 rpm. The motor bogged down significantly. I ended up reducing the DOC to 1/4", WOC to .025", and feedrate to 25 IPM. The RPM stayed at 7500. Even at these adjusted parameters the motor seemed to be working hard. Am I missing settings in Path Pilot or am I being overly aggressive? My previous mill, a converted PM-932 with a 2HP 3-phase belt drive, was able to plow through aluminum at the initial settings with no problem.

    Below I've attached a picture of the test piece finish. Notice the faceting. Is this an expected finish? For info I generate code with F360. I have Tolerance set at .0001" and Smoothing turned on and set at .0001". RPM on the 3/8" 4 flute uncoated end mill is 7500 rpm, feedrate is 20 IPM, and WOC is .010". I also ran a spring pass.

    I run flood coolant with a full enclosure, which works great. Other than a few minor leaks at some of the screw holes I have a somewhat large leak at the back of the machine stand. It appears that the coolant tank is not set back far enough and as the coolant drains it misses the back of the chip basket and runs onto the floor. anyone else experience this? Any recommended fixes.

    All things considered this is definitely a huge step up from my previous mill. The fit and finish of the machine components and accessories is impeccable. I had to fine tune the setup but that was expected. I'm a happy camper! I just need to get my arms around the speeds and feeds issues and stop the coolant leaks.

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  2. #2
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    Default Re: New 1100M Owner Questions!

    I don't have a 1100M, but I can answer based on earlier machines:

    A four-flute isn't generally recommended for aluminum, as the metal expands a bit when cut and will have trouble clearing the flutes. Three-flute is where it's at for aluminum. Also, I assume you're using carbide -- 7500 rpm 3/8" end mills is too fast in 6061 for HSS.

    That being said, you should be able to do 0.035" WOC at 1/2" DOC with about 30 ipm feed rate on a 3-flute, assuming you use "adaptive clearing" in Fusion on an 1100.

    How do you know the motor is "working hard"? Do you have the load meter? What does it show? Perhaps the PID controller in the VFD is tuned to not over-compensate, and thus it sounds a bit "chuggy" when first engaging? (The Adaptive Clearing toolpaths are great at improving this, btw. Make sure to set the no-load feedrate to something high like 200 in the linking settings.)

    That finish doesn't look that good. It looks like you're either feeding faster or spinning slower than you indicate above. Maybe the extremely thin 0.010" cut size is the problem?

    Or there's something loose. Or your endmill is cracked.



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    Default Re: New 1100M Owner Questions!

    Welcome to the family.

    As for the RPM to torque question. I have two of the 1100Ms and run them at 5950 RPM for anything that requires torque. 7500 RPM is only good for light passes and such.

    I run my roughing pass with 0.020" stock left and then do my finishing passes with a spring pass.

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  4. #4

    Default Re: New 1100M Owner Questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by jwatte View Post
    I don't have a 1100M, but I can answer based on earlier machines:

    A four-flute isn't generally recommended for aluminum, as the metal expands a bit when cut and will have trouble clearing the flutes. Three-flute is where it's at for aluminum. Also, I assume you're using carbide -- 7500 rpm 3/8" end mills is too fast in 6061 for HSS.

    That being said, you should be able to do 0.035" WOC at 1/2" DOC with about 30 ipm feed rate on a 3-flute, assuming you use "adaptive clearing" in Fusion on an 1100.

    How do you know the motor is "working hard"? Do you have the load meter? What does it show? Perhaps the PID controller in the VFD is tuned to not over-compensate, and thus it sounds a bit "chuggy" when first engaging? (The Adaptive Clearing toolpaths are great at improving this, btw. Make sure to set the no-load feedrate to something high like 200 in the linking settings.)

    That finish doesn't look that good. It looks like you're either feeding faster or spinning slower than you indicate above. Maybe the extremely thin 0.010" cut size is the problem?

    Or there's something loose. Or your endmill is cracked.
    I'll invest in some 3 flute end mills and report back on the results. And yes, it was a carbide cutter I was using. I was using adaptive clearing for the roughing passes.

    I was listening to the motor and it "sounded" like it was working hard. I know it's not a very scientific method to diagnose problems but it's a guess at best.

    I'll up the no load feedrate to 200 as you suggest. It makes sense.

    Yeah, the finish does look bad. Maybe a new 3 flute cutter will help. The RPM and feedrate was what I programmed and is what was showing in the Path Pilot DRO's. The TTS holder was tight and I didn't have any pullout, and the vise was solidly anchored. Could be the cutter. It was in the best of condition.

    Thanks for the tips.

    Edit - should have written that the cutter "wasn't" in the best of condition.

    Last edited by pastaman; 03-23-2020 at 11:21 PM.


  5. #5

    Default Re: New 1100M Owner Questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by smokediver576 View Post
    Welcome to the family.

    As for the RPM to torque question. I have two of the 1100Ms and run them at 5950 RPM for anything that requires torque. 7500 RPM is only good for light passes and such.

    I run my roughing pass with 0.020" stock left and then do my finishing passes with a spring pass.
    Thanks smokediver for your feedback. Good info on reducing RPM to maximize torque. So if I'm cutting 6061 using a 3/8" 3 flute carbide end mill running at 5950 rpm with a 1/2" DOC and a 30 IPM feedrate, what WOC can I take using an adaptive strategy? I'm looking for a starting point that makes sense.



  6. #6

    Default Re: New 1100M Owner Questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by smokediver576 View Post
    Welcome to the family.

    As for the RPM to torque question. I have two of the 1100Ms and run them at 5950 RPM for anything that requires torque. 7500 RPM is only good for light passes and such.

    I run my roughing pass with 0.020" stock left and then do my finishing passes with a spring pass.
    Smokediver - Are you using flood coolant on your 1100M's? Any leaks like I describe in my original post? The best I can tell is coolant that drains down through the small gaps between the chip tray and the stand at the rear of the enclosure allow some of the coolant to miss the chip/coolant basket on the coolant tank. If the basket and coolant tank was about an inch longer I believe it would catch the stray coolant. I'm looking at making a couple of aluminum deflector plates to redirect the coolant. I was wondering if others have had this happen and what they've done to correct it.

    BTW - In the hardware supplied with the mill are 24 round rubber/soft plastic discs with a small dimple in the center. What are these for? Thought they might be for the window retainer screws but there aren't enough to do all of the screws.



  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by pastaman View Post
    Thanks smokediver for your feedback. Good info on reducing RPM to maximize torque. So if I'm cutting 6061 using a 3/8" 3 flute carbide end mill running at 5950 rpm with a 1/2" DOC and a 30 IPM feedrate, what WOC can I take using an adaptive strategy? I'm looking for a starting point that makes sense.
    With limited horsepower, you'll be better off using light radial cuts and chip thinning. Especially if you don't have flood cooling. start at 10% of the tool diameter, so .05" and start at 80IPM and bump up from there. I use HSMadvisor for all my cutting parameters, well worth the $.



  8. #8

    Default Re: New 1100M Owner Questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by AUSTINMACHINING View Post
    With limited horsepower, you'll be better off using light radial cuts and chip thinning. Especially if you don't have flood cooling. start at 10% of the tool diameter, so .05" and start at 80IPM and bump up from there. I use HSMadvisor for all my cutting parameters, well worth the $.
    I appreciate your input. My strategy has been to use as much of the flute length as is reasonable. I set my spindle speed and from there I adjust WOC and IPM to suit the material. That worked well on my PM-932 converted mill. Now I have a 1100M and basically learning what the mill can do.

    I use the Micro100 speed and feed calculator which has has worked for me in the past. Entering the basic criteria for 6061 of 3/8" diameter 3 flute carbide end mill spinning at 7500 rpm, 1/2" DOC and .05" WOC it recommends 129 IPM (.0057 IPT). Obviously that won't work as I used a more conservative approach as described in my original post.

    All that being said I'll try your suggested parameters and work up from there once my three flute end mills get here next week.



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    Default Re: New 1100M Owner Questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by pastaman View Post
    I appreciate your input. My strategy has been to use as much of the flute length as is reasonable. I set my spindle speed and from there I adjust WOC and IPM to suit the material. That worked well on my PM-932 converted mill. Now I have a 1100M and basically learning what the mill can do.

    I use the Micro100 speed and feed calculator which has has worked for me in the past. Entering the basic criteria for 6061 of 3/8" diameter 3 flute carbide end mill spinning at 7500 rpm, 1/2" DOC and .05" WOC it recommends 129 IPM (.0057 IPT). Obviously that won't work as I used a more conservative approach as described in my original post.

    All that being said I'll try your suggested parameters and work up from there once my three flute end mills get here next week.
    Not in a tormach but 3/8 3flute carbide endmill I run:
    Doc: up to 2x doc so .75 max
    Woc: .1 max for roughing .005 finishing
    Rpm: 6000
    FeedRate: 60ipm roughing 40 ipm finish

    I have pushed the 3/8 much faster but you probably cannot with the low horsepower.


    1/4 3flute carbide endmill I run:
    Doc: up to 2x doc so .5 max
    Woc: .1 max for roughing .005 finishing
    Rpm: 6000
    FeedRate:40 ipm

    I will full slot with the 1/4 at these same feed rates and depths but you must have high quality tools and flood coolant.

    I run these in er16 collets

    If you want I think I have some videos of the cuts



  10. #10

    Default Re: New 1100M Owner Questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by ianagos View Post
    Not in a tormach but 3/8 3flute carbide endmill I run:
    Doc: up to 2x doc so .75 max
    Woc: .1 max for roughing .005 finishing
    Rpm: 6000
    FeedRate: 60ipm roughing 40 ipm finish



    I have pushed the 3/8 much faster but you probably cannot with the low horsepower.


    1/4 3flute carbide endmill I run:
    Doc: up to 2x doc so .5 max
    Woc: .1 max for roughing .005 finishing
    Rpm: 6000
    FeedRate:40 ipm

    I will full slot with the 1/4 at these same feed rates and depths but you must have high quality tools and flood coolant.

    I run these in er16 collets

    If you want I think I have some videos of the cuts
    Good info! Thanks. I'm still getting a "feel" for what the 1100M can do so this is helpful.



  11. #11

    Default Re: New 1100M Owner Questions!

    As for your rear machine leak, take a close look at the Y fitting on the coolant line. My machine was doing the same thing and it drove me nuts. I assumed, as you did, that things weren’t draining properly. Turns out the coiled line was somewhat oval shaped and so wasn’t sealing in the fitting properly resulting in a substantial leak. I have since replaced that line with some fiber reinforced vinyl tubing from Home Depot and a couple barbed fittings. I also added a filter but that’s another topic. The new lines have been totally leak free. As a short term solution, unbolt the bracket that holds the y fitting to the base, pull out enough hose that you can stick one coil in a bucket. That will catch the leak for now. You’ll just have to pour the contents of the buckets back into the machine every now and then.



  12. #12

    Default Re: New 1100M Owner Questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by soofle616 View Post
    As for your rear machine leak, take a close look at the Y fitting on the coolant line. My machine was doing the same thing and it drove me nuts. I assumed, as you did, that things weren’t draining properly. Turns out the coiled line was somewhat oval shaped and so wasn’t sealing in the fitting properly resulting in a substantial leak. I have since replaced that line with some fiber reinforced vinyl tubing from Home Depot and a couple barbed fittings. I also added a filter but that’s another topic. The new lines have been totally leak free. As a short term solution, unbolt the bracket that holds the y fitting to the base, pull out enough hose that you can stick one coil in a bucket. That will catch the leak for now. You’ll just have to pour the contents of the buckets back into the machine every now and then.
    My first thought was a leaking hose and it was leaking a bit. I don't understand why Tormach supplies a "Y" fitting and a plug when it's not needed because basically you end up with a coupling and a potential leak source. I removed the "Y" fitting and that stopped the hose leak. My other leak was because the coolant tank was built too short front to back. As coolant drained back into the chip basket and coolant tank some of the coolant was running down the back side of the coolant tank. If the tank was 3/4" to 1" longer it would catch all of the coolant. My fix was to wrap the rear of the chip basket with a piece of rubber gasket material thus making a three sided funnel. I made it high enough so that the top of the gasket material is higher than the bottom of the chip tray. No more leaks!

    For those that responded to my question about speeds and feeds I made a rookie mistake. I moved the drive belt from the low speed position to the high speed position and tensioned the belt, or so I thought. Found it loose a couple of days later. Retensioned the belt and no problems since.



  13. #13
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    Default Re: New 1100M Owner Questions!

    I had a problem initially with one of the coolant lines sneaking over top of the chip tray after I pulled the tank out then pushed back in. The coolant from the enclosure hit that and ran off the back, puddle looked like what you described and took me a minute to realize what was going on.

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