1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
As the title says I'm looking for the head casting bolt torque on my 1100M. These are the six 12mm socket head cap screws that fasten the head casting to the Z axis saddle. I'm asking because I had to adjust the head in X and Y to get the tram where I wanted it. It was out about .003". I got it trammed in to less than .001" after working on it most of today. What a PITA! Anyway, I'd like to torque the bolts to factory specs.
BTW - I adjusted the head tram after performing the squaring procedure laid out in the Tormach technical document. I got the table level within .0005" and the bed twist is almost perfect. The bubble on my precision level barely moved when I ran the table from Y max to Y min.
Thanks
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Re: 1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
Did you check if your spindle is parallel to the Z axis?
Mine wasn't and I had to shim the head to make it parallel to the Z axis in both the X and Y axis planes. Then I shimmed my column separately to make it trammed to the table in both X and Y planes, because that was out too.
Sorry I couldn't help you with the torque specs.
Re: 1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
...I would think you can use a standard torque specs by bolt size and grade
https://www.google.com/search?client...++torque+specs
Re: 1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
I'm going to check the Z axis tomorrow. Ran out of time today. I've got a few other minor corrections to take care before I can cut metal.
Re: 1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
For info Tormach says the bolt torque is 90 ft/lbs.
Can you explain this procedure? I'm having same issue trammingOriginally Posted by Snecx
I used bubble with way covers off with bubble on y axis ways and its perfect. I have .0065 with turning spindle pointing Y+ with Y- at 0 reference X is about. 004 side to side if that makes sense.
Thanks
Re: 1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
With the readings you got, I cannot tell if your column is off or it is just your spindle head. It could also be both.
You can check (and fix/improve) the perpendicularity of the column to the table first, then only "tram" the spindle head later.
The idea is to fix one before the other, so you don't end up with a spindle that's trammed to the table but the column being tilted like the Pisa tower.
I don't have any specific procedure to suggest, perhaps using the ways Tormach did with their inspection sheet would be a good start.
Re: 1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
I did what Snecx said not to do. I squared my mill using the Tormach procedure then trammed the spindle to the table. It took me a few hours to get the tram set but it was wasted time. I checked the column squareness using a precision square and found that the column was out in the X axis. It took a .005" shim to get it lined up. Now the spindle to table tram was off. I removed the shims I put between the head and the column and the tram came in within a couple of thou. I tweeked the tram a bit more by shimming between the the spindle mounting flange and head casting as suggested by Tormach. I got the tram to less than .001" TIR.
Using the proper sequence is key; square your mill, get the column square to the table, then tram the spindle perpendicular to the table. Worked for me.
Re: 1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
Pastaman - did you notice a difference in the flatness or squareness of you parts you make? How about the surface finish?
Re: 1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
My mill is new and the squaring, column alignment and tramming was part of the commissioning process. So I have no before and after baseline. I can say that the mill is very accurate. If I model a rectangle in CAD and then run the part the dimensions are spot on. Same holds true when I make a dimensional adjustment, such as increasing machining depth. A .002" gcode adjustment results in a .002" dimensional change. Surface finish could be better though (see the attached picture). The finish pass was done with a new 3 flute carbide end mill. I'm not sure if the faceting is machine or post processor related. I use F360 for CAD/CAM and there may be a setting or two that needs to be tweeked.
If you using an adaptive (roughing) tool path, you can get a faceted finish. If your using a 2d contour and getting that finish, check your tolerance and smoothing settings
Re: 1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
How big is the bracket, and what is your feed and speed? That faceting could be too large feed in the finish pass.
There also seems to be significant tool deflection in the second step-down -- what's your radial depth of cut? And what is your tool size?
The way I would cut this would be to use an Adaptive clearing toolpath, leaving perhaps 0.25mm (10 thousandths) of stock to leave radially.
That pass can push as hard on feed as the tool will take.
Then profile as a finish pass, with much lower feed and the highest possible speed.
Also, make sure to turn on tool path optimization for inner corners.
Re: 1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
My tolerance and smoothing settings are set to .0001. What should they be?
Re: 1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
The circular portion is 2-1/4" OD. The wall thickness is 1/8". For the finish pass I used a new 3/8" diameter, carbide, three flute, 1" length of cut end mill with a spindle rpm of 4000 and a feed of 15 IPM (.00125 IPT). Depth of cut was 1/2".
I used an adaptive tool path for roughing and I did leave .010" for finishing stepover. I had "repeat finish pass" turned on. I did not have tool path optimization turned on. Will give that a try.
Re: 1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
The parameters sound reasonable. 1" stick-out sounds slightly high, but 1/8" thick part sounds like more of a problem -- that will flex when you push the cutter towards it.
That being said -- if you have a 1/2" depth of cut, that's the entire part? So why is there such a noticeable step in the middle of it?
I also notice you seem to be cutting the bottom on your finish pass. There's some chance this causes rubbing, and deflection of the tool. Try lifting the toopath 1 thousandth off the floor when doing the finish contours.
Also, a question -- are those holes back chamfered? Using a dovetail cutter through the center?
Re: 1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
I looked at the parts again and I don't see the step. It could be a reflection or camera distortion. I've attached a couple of pictures of the finished part and no step is visible. There is a minute circular band on the interior and exterior. Touched it up with a Skotchbrite pad and that took care of it.
I also was concerned about the thin sidewall and ran a spring pass. The dimensions on these parts are not critical, plus/minus .003" on the OD and ID so a little deflection is acceptable. I'll use your suggestion about lifting the cutter .001" off the floor on the final pass. Hadn't thought of that.
I deburred the back side of the holes with a three cornered deburring tool.
Thanks for your input.
Re: 1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
I think that "band" is what I called a "step."
Looks like that will work well for whatever you're using it for!
Re: 1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
I appreciate the suggestions. I'm a self taught CNC hobby guy so I primarily learn by reading and making mistakes, then try again. Here's a picture of the finished product. It's a grab handle for my side by side.
Re: 1100M Head Casting Bolt Torque
Having the means to actually make things in our garages certainly makes us more able to improve our surroundings :-)
Thin wall machining strategy uses alternating depths of cut on each side of the wall going progressiv deeper. This provides the support needed from tool cutting forces to prevent deflection.
Ex. Wall side A first cut, .1 " deep.
2nd cut wall side B, .2 deep
3rd cut side A, .3 deep. Etc. Alternating side to the bottom of wall.
Also try smoothing at .001".
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