Series 1 (with updates) X axis cable connector

[Mooser]

Just noticed the "waterproof" cable conduit has snapped where it meets the connector at the motor. This is the second time I've had to fix it, I guess the plastic is getting old/weak and that's where it sees the most bending.
Anyway, has anyone changed to a different conduit or different fitting (45 or 90 deg) to help this out? It's a bit of a PIA to get at it to repair so I'd like to solve if posible
Thanks
M

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[MichaelHenry]

I wonder if "real" LiquiTite might last longer. I think that McMaster-Carr sells something that might fit or be adaptable. Another thought is to use clear PVC (or another plastic) tubing with push-to-connect fittings, also available from McMaster-Carr, and loads of other places of course.

[mountaindew]

I wonder if "real" LiquiTite might last longer. I think that McMaster-Carr sells something that might fit or be adaptable. Another thought is to use clear PVC (or another plastic) tubing with push-to-connect fittings, also available from McMaster-Carr, and loads of other places of course.

I would suggest a material that limits kinks!

[Mooser]

I think I need to find a 45 or 90 fitting to replace the straight one, for whatever reason it tries to bend right where the cable exits the end fitting now, last time I didn't notice and the wires started random shorting and the axis started moving backwards/stopping in the middle of a program.. fun stuff there
M

[MichaelHenry]

I would suggest a material that limits kinks!

Clear plastic PVC tubing should meet that criteria - it is pretty flexible and it is often available in a few wall thicknesses which would allow for modest stiffness differences.

[popspipes]

I think the oil in the coolant and way oil affects the sealtite type conduit that is on the machine, mine broke at the connector on the X axis, it was long enough that I cut off the bad end with a wire cutter and reinstalled it a few years back. I moved the stepper motor 90 degrees to give it more of a straight path, it is working fine now.

[Mooser]

I might have to look into that (turning the motor) to relieve the stress on the already weak conduit.

Does anyone know what type of conduit this stuff is? As in what fittings I can look for without having to take it apart to take the existing fitting with me to try to find a 90 degree one?
Thanks
M

[jwatte]

I think the drawings are available on the Tormach web site?
Otherwise I imagine you can call them. If you do, please post the answer here :-)

[MichaelHenry]

I think the oil in the coolant and way oil affects the sealtite type conduit that is on the machine, mine broke at the connector on the X axis, it was long enough that I cut off the bad end with a wire cutter and reinstalled it a few years back. I moved the stepper motor 90 degrees to give it more of a straight path, it is working fine now.

This Liquid Tight conduit from McMaster-Carr claims to be oil-resistant:

https://www.mcmaster.com/8071k41

Clear PVC is rate as "Good" to "Poor" in compatibility with lubricants and oils so may not be a good choice after all. Cheap enough to try out though and I may do that the next time I need to change the conduit.

[MichaelHenry]

I might have to look into that (turning the motor) to relieve the stress on the already weak conduit.

Does anyone know what type of conduit this stuff is? As in what fittings I can look for without having to take it apart to take the existing fitting with me to try to find a 90 degree one?
Thanks
M

Check out Liquid Tight fittings. They are used industrially and should be readily available in Canada. Seal Proof is another brand name. I'd be inclined to go with the metal fittings as opposed to the plastic ones.

[Mooser]

I've emailed Tormach to see if they'll say what brand name (or knock-off) they use, I'll post if they get back to me.
I know the stuff that's on there is very flexible as opposed to some of the heavier conduit I've used in industry, (possibly just weakened after ten years of coolant exposure) I'm not looking forward to pulling the motor apart again to get at the wires but not looking forward to replacing the entire conduit either
M

[jwatte]

I think the main question is the size/thread of the fittings so that one that fits can be ordered...

[MichaelHenry]

The spare fittings that that I ordered from Tormach a while back appear to be either 16 mm or 5/8 straight threads. I didn't check the pitch, but they be NPSM threads.

[Mooser]

After the problem I had with mine cracking for the x'th time I've been looking at different options, problem is how flexible the original stuff was and how stiff some of the other options are
This "Type LNMP" or "Type LT" conduit but I'd like to physically touch a piece to see how flexible it is
M

[kstrauss]

Places like Lowes and Home Depot have several types of flexible non-metallic conduit. Canadian Industrial electrical suppliers such as Nedco, Westburne and Guillevan are in many towns. Perhaps you could visit a local store and try flexing their offerings.

[popspipes]

Clear plastic PVC tubing should meet that criteria - it is pretty flexible and it is often available in a few wall thicknesses which would allow for modest stiffness differences.

I was thinking along that line too Mike, my problem is I use oil for coolant, this does a number on vinyl tubing, I have the Tygon brand on my return lines and that is lasting and not getting hard, but the outside of it is getting sticky to the touch for some reason, it has been on there for about 3 -4 years now, it still functions fine though.

[Mooser]

I shortened the casing (again) another inch for now to remove the broken end and also rotated the motor (as suggested) 90 degrees. For now I added about 4 inches of 1" diameter clear tubing and gear clamped it over the threaded end fitting. That should support that end of the conduit more and act as a bit of a strain-relief, hopefully not filling with coolant and chips
Anyway, just a bandaid until I get some different conduit and replace the old one.

I also made up some streamliner plates so that might actually help the movement of those cables be a little more.
M

[MichaelHenry]

I was thinking along that line too Mike, my problem is I use oil for coolant, this does a number on vinyl tubing, I have the Tygon brand on my return lines and that is lasting and not getting hard, but the outside of it is getting sticky to the touch for some reason, it has been on there for about 3 -4 years now, it still functions fine though.

Polyethylene tubing might work, though that is generally much stiffer than PVC. Regarding the stickiness on the outside of the tubing, I wonder if that could be coolant oils drying out on the tubing. Might be worth checking with your coolant supplier to see what they recommend.