PP 2.0.0 working great as is my $109.00 ETS.

[jttoner]

While I was waiting for my PP 2.0.0 to arrive, my hard drive crashed so I ordered a new one. Well the PP 2.0.0 arrived before the new hard drive so thought I'd try and make it work on the bad drive. I had to load linix then the original PP followed by v. 1.9.13, then finally 2.0.0. It worked like a charm until a few days ago when it refused to boot. Just to see what would happen,I inserted the USB device with PP 2.0.0 on it and the thing booted and runs fine. I know it's just a matter of time before I'll have to change out the flakey hard drive. For now it's doing ok.

I also have that low price probe by Wild Horse. I removed it's shank and probe tip then set it up as an ETS. Works great. Beats $1,000 plus by about $900

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[popspipes]

Congrats John on the PP upgrade! I cant tell any difference in the way it operates, just a few more features is what I have noticed.
I am having a glitch with PP.1.6, the "copy from usb" button at times doesnt show on the screen and I am wondering if it could be my harddrive as its been in the machine for over 7 years now.

[jttoner]

I can tell no functional difference between PP1.9.13 and PP 2.0.0. Probably I'm just haven't discovered it's advanced features. I am, however, super happy with my poor man's ETS. Works great and the price was right.

[MFchief]

Sorry to be a bit off topic, but :

RDSI, the probe you bought off Amazon is listed as NO, did you find that to be true? I've seen a number of post on line lately saying that people have purchased ETS's on eBay listed as NO that turned out to be NC.

Terry

[CL_MotoTech]

I use my WIld Horse probe as a tool setter too (I'm on Mach3). It's pretty damn repeatable and it does well with flood coolant unlike other methods, not sure I'd leave it in there full time though. I will say that packing the thing to about half full with dielectric grease makes sure it stays dry and prevents corrosion on the contacts while also lubing the action and really takes it to the next level.

[MFchief]

Thanks for the quick reply, and the answer was what I was hoping, for since I use the Tormach Digitizing Probe now, and wanted to avoid having to switch back and forth on the settings page.

I ordered the probe on Amazon (supposedly last one in stock), so we'll see if it's the same one you received. I am sort of a pessimist at heart, and sometimes Amazon and eBay suppliers buy from different sources and don\t always change their ads.

Thanks again for the response and also the details on the wiring!

Terry

[spyderguy550]

PathPilot v2.0.0 is over a year old. Grab the latest release v2.1.6 from the Tormach website.

[MFchief]

Thanks for more info, I'll let everyone know when I try it out.

Terry

[Steve Seebold]

I’ll stay with my Mach III. It does everything I need it to do.

[MFchief]

Hey everyone, and especially RDSI. I recieved the ETS I ordered from Amazon, and it appears to be identical to the one RDSI has.

First, you were sure right about that plastic sheath on the cable! that is some tuff stuff. I experimented with various cable tools to cut it, but never was able to get a good cut without damaging the covers of the interior wires. I ended up cutting it long then splitting the outer sheath lengthwise with a hobby knife, got a little damage at the start, then was able to stay in the small gap between the wires to get it finished.

Wired it up the same as RDSI did, and it works fine on my machine.

Now a couple of questions for RDSI. and really all the folks who use ETS's.
Do you leave them on the table all the time, or only get them out when needed? My current plan is to mount it to a small AL block with embedded magnets to hold it to the table. Can't think of a reason for side forces that would cause a problem with the magnets. I am with RDSI on the reason to have the ETS, I use a nearly identical Hi Speed spindle and it would simplify tool length setting a great deal.

Last question, are these things supposed to be coolant proof? That would only be an issue if you left it mounted all the time.

OK really last question, has anyone played with setting up a G code block to check tool length on every tool change

Terry

[kstrauss]

Hey everyone, and especially RDSI. Wired it up the same as RDSI did, and it works fine on my machine.

Mine looks exactly like the RDSI one but my contacts are NC rather than NO ones on his. Mine has an overtravel NO contact. The point being that items that look alike are not always the same and never believe the adverts.

Now a couple of questions for RDSI. and really all the folks who use ETS's.
Do you leave them on the table all the time, or only get them out when needed? My current plan is to mount it to a small AL block with embedded magnets to hold it to the table. Can't think of a reason for side forces that would cause a problem with the magnets.

I secure mine to the table with a cheap Chinese magnetic indicator base. The magnet release lever makes it easy to position exactly where I want it and then remove. It is important to have the top surface parallel to the table so I put two small aluminum disks with setscrews between the ETS and the magnetic base to allow me to adjust for parallelism.

Last question, are these things supposed to be coolant proof?

The top shroud is not really sealed to the base so I would worry about splashy coolant getting inside. I use mist and that has not been a problem.

[MFchief]

I agree, with you about the advertising, as I mentioned earlier in the thread, I was concerned about that, so that's the main reason I ordered from Amazon, if you like nothing else about them, they are great about returns.

Mine was setup as RSDI's, main contact NO, overtravel NC, this is what I wanted since that is how my probe is setup.

I suspect you are correct about the coolant being a potential problem, that's why I intend to do the magnetic base thing like you did.

Did yours come with the little pneumatic puffer (it least that's what I think it is) like RSDI's, guess that could be useful in some setup's with constant mounting, but since I intend to remove after use, I just took that bit off to keep chips and stuff away from it and keep it out of the way of tools.

Thanks
Terry

[kstrauss]

Mine was setup as RSDI's, main contact NO, overtravel NC, this is what I wanted since that is how my probe is setup.

Did yours come with the little pneumatic puffer (it least that's what I think it is) like RSDI's, guess that could be useful in some setup's with constant mounting, but since I intend to remove after use, I just took that bit off to keep chips and stuff away from it and keep it out of the way of tools.

Thanks
Terry

Both my probe and my ETS are NC so I'm happy. I currently have no connection to the overtravel contacts but have considered wiring it into my eStop chain. That requires converting it to a NC.

Yes, mine also has the puffer but that feature is currently unused. I plan to puff with a solenoid operated pneumatic valve as soon as I get time to make a proper enclosure for my clone of the Tormach USB relay I/O board.

[MFchief]

Sounds good, If you figure out how to get into the E stop loop without having to leave it plugged in all the time, please be sure to post it.

Terry

[kstrauss]

All good reasons to not bother with eStop on the ETS. And perhaps worst the overtravel switch would only protect against an essentially vertical collision with the ETS with no protection from X/Y moves. It might be better to eStop if the ETS is unplugged!

[MFchief]

RDSI, do you happen to have a Rapid Turn? If you do, you would know part of it is a sort of junction box where you unplug the normal spindle and plug in the rapid turn motor.

Since I have that already, one of my long range projects is to change out the connector on my hi speed spindle, plug it in the same way as the rapid turn or Tormach high speed spindle, then use the normal VFD of the 1100 to run my spindle.

This will require the VFD to be programmed for the high speed motor, but using the smartstick currently provided for rapid turn does this now (for rapid turn, not hi speed), then you reprogram back to standard with another smartstick, these were provided as part of the rapid turn kit.

I have purchased a blank smartstick and plan to program it for my hi speed spindle in the same way.

Of course using the hi speed spindle this way doesn't require rapid turn at all, it was just the source of the junction box.

Terry

[kstrauss]

That seems like a really good idea. Looking at the manual it appears that the Emerson VFD can provide output up to 1500Hz so that should not be a problem. Don't forget to power off the VFD before switching!

[MFchief]

I'm looking forward to trying it soon. Almost everything I do with the hi speed spindle is very small cutters, such as engraving, so I don't think the VFD power will be an issue for me.

Your setup sure looks sweet, and it makes good sense when you are moving it to more than one machine.

And, Kstrauss, definitely know to shut down before moving the cables, LoL Learned that one the hard way as a young sailor working on an old analog radar with a biga** pulse forming network!

Terry

[kstrauss]

And, Kstrauss, definitely know to shut down before moving the cables, LoL Learned that one the hard way as a young sailor working on an old analog radar with a biga** pulse forming network!

It would be easier for me to screw up since my Rapidturn cable is on a switch.

Could rdsi show a picture of how he mounted his HS spindle to the main spindle? I'm trying to decide how to mount mine and any ideas would be appreciated.

[MFchief]

Can't be positive it's still his current setup, but at the top of this thread, in his first post, is a link to an older thread which shows the HS spindle mounted.

Terry