Coupling and bearing preload


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    Default Coupling and bearing preload

    Hi folks,

    I'm refurbing a Taig mill that had been left in disuse for a few years from its previous owner. Some light rust here and there, disassembled the Z axis last night and WD-40/Scotch-brited the ways to get most of the rust off. I'm getting everything together as per the Taig Tools video online but am a little confused about the coupler part.

    The previous owner had upgraded to higher torque steppers and in the process moved to rigid couplers. I'm reading to figure out which flexible coupler to get, since apparently rigid is a big no-no. However with an aftermarket coupler, how do you set the "bearing preload"? On the factory system, a nut on the end of the lead screw is tightened to bring the shoulder of the leadscrew against the bottom of the double bearing and the dial/scale against the top bearing. The coupler then fits over the nut and couples to the unthreaded portion of the screw. It appears that an aftermarket coupler would not be able to accommodate the nut. Additionally, it looks like I would have to cut a keyway or ditch the dial entirely.

    For those running aftermarket couplers, how did you deal with this?

    Thanks!

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    Default Re: Coupling and bearing preload

    Well before I got my Taig Ballscrew upgrade... I installed Oldham couplers.


    I just threaded the lead screw a bit past the keyway. Then I turned down the end to fit my clamp-on end.


    Then I used the stock washer and dial. Pre-loaded the bearings with the stock locknut
    Key not needed, the pre-load will keep the dial in place.
    Then I put the oldham end and tighten the clamp. I also used a drop of green Loctite.


    Good Luck,
    Stuart



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    Quote Originally Posted by sclelectronics View Post
    Well before I got my Taig Ballscrew upgrade... I installed Oldham couplers.


    I just threaded the lead screw a bit past the keyway. Then I turned down the end to fit my clamp-on end.


    Then I used the stock washer and dial. Pre-loaded the bearings with the stock locknut
    Key not needed, the pre-load will keep the dial in place.
    Then I put the oldham end and tighten the clamp. I also used a drop of green Loctite.


    Good Luck,
    Stuart
    Fantastic, thank you so much! Just ordered oldhams all around, pictures help a lot. I'll have to get friendly with the machinist at work and ask him to turn my screw. Thanks again.



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    Default Re: Coupling and bearing preload

    Here is a Fully Assembled view I forgot to put in my reply......


    Stuart



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    Default Re: Coupling and bearing preload

    Quote Originally Posted by sclelectronics View Post
    Here is a Fully Assembled view I forgot to put in my reply......


    Stuart
    Did you ever switch to Oldham style couplings on your ballscrew Taig? I've seen people tap a through bore clamping style Oldham coupling to replace the Taig's locknut (here https://medw.uk/wiki/Taig+Mill+Spares ). Any idea how effective this method would be compared to yours?



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    Default Re: Coupling and bearing preload

    Hi,
    I thought hard about that....
    But having a Ny-lok nut won out..
    But I see no Real disadvantage to either approach...

    On my Ball-Screws.. I just could bring my self to machine them..\
    Maybe I might have to re-think the tapping of the oldham coupler clamp.....

    Stuart



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