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  1. #21
    Member mactec54's Avatar
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Quote Originally Posted by rockaukum View Post
    Peter,
    Thanks for hanging in there with me and my ignorance with this stuff. The monitor is set to never sleep. When it falters, it goes blank then comes back fairly quick. I also see static(?) on the secret on occasion, but don't know what that means.
    I hope to get to the shop tomorrow and run the other suggestions and see what happens. As for my ignorance, the drive nut is the sprocket on the stepper motor, correct?
    I'll get back tomorrow, I hope!
    Rockaukum
    If you are seeing static on the screen you have an EMI electrical noise problem, this could be Grounding or other wiring problems it has to be really bad to do that, so if this is happening this could put the motors out of sink and then you get the jumping of a tooth in the drive of the rack / Pinion

    Is that a direct drive where the gear (Pinion) in mounted on the motor some photos of that would help, and some photos of the wiring in the cabinet

    Mactec54


  2. #22
    Member rockaukum's Avatar
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    I went to the shop today and dropped the motors away form the rails. Then I tried to move the gantry up and down the rails. It was very difficult, or more than I would expect. To me it appeared to be a little more loose on the left side which is not the side that would stop. I'd like to know the process for lubricating the blocks and bearings. I have done a bit of searching and have found various options from 3n1 oil on the rail and slid back and forth several times to removing the screw and injecting grease into the hole then slide back and forth.
    So, what is the consensus for this? I do not know who manufactures this block otherwise I'd check their site for specifics but....
    After I lube them, what is the correct way to tighten the Allen screw? How much force is applied?
    Thank you!
    rockaukum

    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220817_175421576-jpg



  3. #23
    Member mactec54's Avatar
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Quote Originally Posted by rockaukum View Post
    I went to the shop today and dropped the motors away form the rails. Then I tried to move the gantry up and down the rails. It was very difficult, or more than I would expect. To me it appeared to be a little more loose on the left side which is not the side that would stop. I'd like to know the process for lubricating the blocks and bearings. I have done a bit of searching and have found various options from 3n1 oil on the rail and slid back and forth several times to removing the screw and injecting grease into the hole then slide back and forth.
    So, what is the consensus for this? I do not know who manufactures this block otherwise I'd check their site for specifics but....
    After I lube them, what is the correct way to tighten the Allen screw? How much force is applied?
    Thank you!
    rockaukum

    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220817_175421576-jpg
    With no machined surfaces for the rail or the Bearing mounting, there could be a lot of misalignment, which will cause binding even with these builds which are quite forgiving with alignment, it does not take much to get binding

    They look clean, so does not look like a dust problem, you can grease the Bearings however you like, whatever works, just don't overdo it, as wood dust will stick to the grease and make things worse

    Mactec54


  4. #24
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Here are some photos of the machine, vfd, computer ect...
    I did an air test run this morning after I used 3n1 oil on the rails and moved the gantry back and forth several times. Why 3n1? That is what I had on hand and I did not want to just squirt grease in there not knowing about viscosities and such. Then I manually ran the gantry back and forth switching from regular speed to high speed and had no issues. Then I did an approximate 15 minute air cut. That went without issue as well.
    I do have concerns about EMI and the computer. I shot a video of this as well. It only has the static when the VFD is running. I am fairly certain that they are on different circuits but will have to pull the panel to inspect further. When I run the VFD, the monitor goes black then comes back on with the static. When I shut off the VFD, the monitor clears up.

    mactec, When I dropped the motors with the gear attached to the motor shaft and tried to slide the gantry, there was resistance. More on the right side than the left. After the 3n1 oil, it moves sooo much easier. My thought is that the resistance is due to dry bearings, that the right side would bind and cause the stuttering(?). Don't really know just an assumption.
    rockaukum
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220818_152924837-jpg
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220818_152948443-jpg
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220818_153028874-jpg
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220818_152822922-jpg
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220818_152911209-jpg




  5. #25
    Member mactec54's Avatar
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Quote Originally Posted by rockaukum View Post
    Here are some photos of the machine, vfd, computer ect...
    I did an air test run this morning after I used 3n1 oil on the rails and moved the gantry back and forth several times. Why 3n1? That is what I had on hand and I did not want to just squirt grease in there not knowing about viscosities and such. Then I manually ran the gantry back and forth switching from regular speed to high speed and had no issues. Then I did an approximate 15 minute air cut. That went without issue as well.
    I do have concerns about EMI and the computer. I shot a video of this as well. It only has the static when the VFD is running. I am fairly certain that they are on different circuits but will have to pull the panel to inspect further. When I run the VFD, the monitor goes black then comes back on with the static. When I shut off the VFD, the monitor clears up.

    mactec, When I dropped the motors with the gear attached to the motor shaft and tried to slide the gantry, there was resistance. More on the right side than the left. After the 3n1 oil, it moves sooo much easier. My thought is that the resistance is due to dry bearings, that the right side would bind and cause the stuttering(?). Don't really know just an assumption.
    rockaukum
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220818_152924837-jpg
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220818_152948443-jpg
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220818_153028874-jpg
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220818_152822922-jpg
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220818_152911209-jpg
    Any kind of lube could help if it had none at all.

    Can you take the cover off the VFD and take a photo of the wiring.

    Is the VFD Drive Power coming from the cabinet or is it using (2) separate Power sources

    Wiring and cables use are quite a mess.

    Mactec54


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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mactec54 View Post
    With no machined surfaces for the rail or the Bearing mounting, there could be a lot of misalignment, which will cause binding even with these builds which are quite forgiving with alignment, it does not take much to get binding

    They look clean, so does not look like a dust problem, you can grease the Bearings however you like, whatever works, just don't overdo it, as wood dust will stick to the grease and make things worse

    I would use Teflon based GT85 on those to basically keep them clean. Oil or grease (even WD40) will just attract filth and make things worse.
    Used to use GT85 on the slides of the automated print finishing machines at work.



  7. #27
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Hi Rock - Looks like your bearings dried out. Over the years they have filled with muck. Best would be to pull them off and clean the insides, relub and reassemble. Next is to flush them with thin oil in place then use a dry lub as others have suggested. Luckily the rails are not scored. The gantry should slide very easily by hand. I use a paraffin wax as this is a dry lub, does not attract dust and is easy to apply. I have not used round rails seriously. About to make my first round rail machine. So will look out for this issue. Square rails a lub chamber at their ends and a grease port. Peter



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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Quote Originally Posted by dazp1976 View Post
    I would use Teflon based GT85 on those to basically keep them clean. Oil or grease (even WD40) will just attract filth and make things worse.
    Used to use GT85 on the slides of the automated print finishing machines at work.
    The GT85 is basically WD-40 with PTFE added which is not suitable to lubricate Bearings, all linear Bearings have pockets inside for the Grease if greased on a regular schedule with the correct grease, then nothing will get inside the Bearings, the Bearings are sealed and have a way wiper which clears the rails

    Mactec54


  9. #29
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Hey folks, Thanks again for the isights. I'll get some dry lube to assist the movement.
    Mactec: I'll take the cover off and snap a photo for ya. You helped me set the whole VFD up after I blew the first one up! The link below will take you to that discussion if that helps. I hope to get down to the shop today and get that pic up tonight. As for power to the VFD, It comes from a breaker box to a switch which sends power to the vfd. If you look at the photos sent, the one of the full table, you will see the box mounted to the right of the VFD.
    Thanks again!
    rockaukum



  10. #30
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Hi Rock - Some cars have a pinch screw and an access screw for lub. If the screw you have is same as a grease nipple then you can flush it and replace the screw. Undo the screw and see what's in there. To me it seems time for a bearing pulldown and clean...Peter

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Time to change it up.-round-block-jpg   Time to change it up.-block-jpg  


  11. #31
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Peter,
    You make a good point. I'll pull them out and give them a good cleaning. Once I pull the blocks off, will the bearings fall out or are they held into a sleeve of some sort?
    thanks for staying with this!
    Mactec, here are a couple more photos for you...
    rockaukum

    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220819_011139800-jpg
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220819_011317750-jpg
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220819_011358973-jpg



  12. #32
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Hi Rock - I haven't pulled a round car down but I lost bearings from square ones! Tiny buggers go everywhere. So make a cardboard tube to slide them onto so you can then have them over a plastic tub or crate ready for inspection to catch anything. Someone here could be more specific about round car overhauls. Peter

    Last edited by peteeng; 08-18-2022 at 11:30 PM.


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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Hi,
    I don't think they are bearings so much as self-propelled sphereoids....the first time I lost some I found one in my sock draw a fortnight later......dirty little buggers fly I'm sure.

    Craig



  14. #34
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Hi Craig - I think they are death stars only 2mm in diameter not 160km as per the Starwars movies. Opps, Honey I shrunk all of the DS-1 OBS's what can we do with them? ... Perhaps Hiwin would like them dear, give them a call....I don't want them stacked up on the kitchen table like that. Peter

    Last edited by peteeng; 08-19-2022 at 03:02 AM.


  15. #35
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Quote Originally Posted by rockaukum View Post
    Peter,
    You make a good point. I'll pull them out and give them a good cleaning. Once I pull the blocks off, will the bearings fall out or are they held into a sleeve of some sort?
    thanks for staying with this!
    Mactec, here are a couple more photos for you...
    rockaukum

    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220819_011139800-jpg
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220819_011317750-jpg
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220819_011358973-jpg
    That does not look good at all, you appear to have a Ground loop as well as other wiring problems, the VFD Drive wiring connections look ok, do you have a shielded cable from the VFD Drive to the Spindle

    The Sub Box does it have a 4-wire Mains supply or just 3-wires meaning does it have 2 Hot (Black wires) a Neutral (White wire) and a Ground

    The link did not attach

    Mactec54


  16. #36
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Mactec,
    Oops, here ya go....
    https://www.cnczone.com/forums/spind...ml#post2240080
    I'll check the sub panel today. however I believe it is three wires, two hot and neutral.
    rockaukum



  17. #37
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Quote Originally Posted by rockaukum View Post
    Mactec,
    Oops, here ya go....
    https://www.cnczone.com/forums/spind...ml#post2240080
    I'll check the sub panel today. however I believe it is three wires, two hot and neutral.
    rockaukum
    It must have a Ground also, take a closeup photo of the sub panel with the front cover off

    Mactec54


  18. #38
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Mactec,
    Correct. I pulled the face plate to inspect. It does have the ground.
    The computer is on a separate circuit as well. I tried switching outlets for the computer and had the same interference.
    Inside the panel, the only other breaker being used is for the vac and to pull power to the control box via the switch.
    rockaukum
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220819_184355217-jpg

    Last edited by rockaukum; 08-19-2022 at 04:37 PM.


  19. #39
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Quote Originally Posted by rockaukum View Post
    Mactec,
    Correct. I pulled the face plate to inspect. It does have the ground.
    The computer is on a separate circuit as well. I tried switching outlets for the computer and had the same interference.
    Inside the panel, the only other breaker being used is for the vac and to pull power to the control box via the switch.
    rockaukum
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220819_184355217-jpg
    The Sub Panel is wired correct

    From the Sub Panel you should have a 4-wire feed to your machine electrical cabinet to a disconnect.

    In your machine electrical cabinet, you would have a 2 Pole Breaker for the VFD Drive 240v AC and another single Pole Breaker for the 120v Ac needed in the machine electrical cabinet

    The Machine electrical Cabinet needs a Ground Bus all Grounds are connected at the Ground Bus.

    So, there is work to be done to get this working correctly

    The switch you are using is not suitable for 240v Ac a cabinet disconnect looks like this

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Time to change it up.-disconnect-switches-4-png   Time to change it up.-grounding-bus-cabinet-png  
    Mactec54


  20. #40
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    Default Re: Time to change it up.

    Mactec,
    Glad I got something correct!
    Anyway, let me explain what I got and tell me if this meets your suggestions listed above. albeit not exactly or pretty but will this work?
    ON the diagram, you can see how the wiring is done as of now. There is also a picture of the 240v ac switch which controls the power to the VFD.
    Basically form the sub panel the power goes through a 240 double pole breaker to the 240v ac switch then from the switch to the VFD. The cable from the VFD to the spindle is shielded and connected to the CNC control box. The shield is grounded right after it leaves the VFD to the metal bracket which is attached to the CNC cabinet.
    Inside the sub panel there is also a single pole 120v breaker. That feeds a switch which controls an outlet. Plugged into the outlet is the power line to the power supply. Also inside the CNC cabinet, I collected all the grounds from the drivers and attached them to the cabinet with a screw. The paint was cleared prior to securing the ground wires. As noted, the wires look like a mess so I tidied them up a little bit.
    So, before I go and tear this thing apart, take a look and tell me if this meets the required items above. I think it is all there but the breakers and switches are outside the CNC cabinet.
    Again, I appreciate all the help, and[as you know, I need it!
    rockaukum
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220821_210714537-jpg
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220821_184232837-jpg
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220821_192547172-mp-jpg
    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220821_210707849-mp-jpg

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Time to change it up.-pxl_20220821_184242146-jpg   Time to change it up.-pxl_20220821_210714537-jpg   Time to change it up.-pxl_20220821_210707849-mp-jpg   Time to change it up.-pxl_20220821_192547172-mp-jpg  

    Time to change it up.-pxl_20220821_184242146-jpg   Time to change it up.-pxl_20220821_184232837-jpg  


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