What's the story on 1.5kW 110V VFDs?

[batcrave]

This is what you posted which is clearly incorrect and what I was referring too, not what you have just posted after your adjustment,

A careful reading will show that I explained the reason for the discrepancy between the two sets. I'm not really interested in arguing the point beyond that.

You have a misconception of the Parameters as being Default all VFD Drives come with a preset configuration of 50/60 Hz none will ever have a default of 400Hz set, so when a Parameter is set by someone and you do a Reset not all Parameters will Reset to the Factory settings that is why you still saw some Parameters set at 400Hz and though in your mind that they where default when they would not of been

So the defaults aren't default, and Reset to Factory actually Resets to values that may not be the Factory settings? Confusing, but I suppose it's not entirely surprising. This also explains a lot about why we had such different ideas about which settings were important to report.

PD173=120 needs to be set

Interesting - that's one I hadn't seen on your other posts... Unfortunately it's also one that - at least on the old unit - couldn't be changed. PD0173 couldn't be changed from 225, and PD174 couldn't be changed from 7. The replacement is supposed to be arriving some time next week, so I'll see if it acts any different.

Speaking of which, I was hoping you might be able to tell me if there's any other essential hardware (aside from the enclosure, filter, and glands) that I need to be ordering in the meantime to set this one up right..

The manual says "Be sure to install a Non-Fuse Breaker (NFB) between the power supply and the input terminals (R, S, T). (If using a ground fault circuit interrupter, please choose one corresponding to high frequency" but doesn't give any specifics (the one other mention says "Refer to the related list", which I can't seem to find any trace of) and also mentions a contactor - any recommendations for either of those?


-Bats

[mactec54]

A careful reading will show that I explained the reason for the discrepancy between the two sets. I'm not really interested in arguing the point beyond that.


So the defaults aren't default, and Reset to Factory actually Resets to values that may not be the Factory settings? Confusing, but I suppose it's not entirely surprising. This also explains a lot about why we had such different ideas about which settings were important to report.


Interesting - that's one I hadn't seen on your other posts... Unfortunately it's also one that - at least on the old unit - couldn't be changed. PD0173 couldn't be changed from 225, and PD174 couldn't be changed from 7. The replacement is supposed to be arriving some time next week, so I'll see if it acts any different.

Speaking of which, I was hoping you might be able to tell me if there's any other essential hardware (aside from the enclosure, filter, and glands) that I need to be ordering in the meantime to set this one up right..

The manual says "Be sure to install a Non-Fuse Breaker (NFB) between the power supply and the input terminals (R, S, T). (If using a ground fault circuit interrupter, please choose one corresponding to high frequency" but doesn't give any specifics (the one other mention says "Refer to the related list", which I can't seem to find any trace of) and also mentions a contactor - any recommendations for either of those?


-Bats

No not all Parameters are a factory Default, they become your default once set that's how it works, once some of the Parameters have been set buy someone they will never change when you do a Factory RESET the only why to change them is to go to that Parameter and change it

If you could not change these Parameters then the drive was messed up PD073 is always set it relates to PD011 both should be the same, I think you are confused there is no PD0173 and PD173 is not one I have ever posted as to be set or changed

I see you even confused me on this PD173 as I posted it incorrect from what you had posted, it should have been PD073

PD174 can be changed depending on the VFD Drive this is the max rated Amps of the VFD Drive ( PD174 Rated Current of Inverter )

You don't want a GFI on your system if you do use one then it has to be rated for what you are using it for and this would be expensive

Because you are just doing a hobby level machine a 2 Pole breaker if you are using 240v NA single phase a Contactor is good to have but not always needed for what you are doing, if your connection is 120v then you would be using a single pole breaker is all you need and the Power filter on the input Power to the VFD Drive Remember the Breaker and contactor and cables have to be 125% higher rated that your max current rating of your system

The Cable Gland if you use one has to be for shielded cable EMI control a normal Cable Gland will not have the added part for the shield Grounding

[batcrave]

[edit: snipped distracting & unnecessary crap]

You don't want a GFI on your system if you do use one then it has to be rated for what you are using it for and this would be expensive

Great! The more hardware you tell me I don't need, the easier my life is. Thanks!

Because you are just doing a hobby level machine a 2 Pole breaker if you are using 240v NA single phase a Contactor is good to have but not always needed for what you are doing,

If I wanted to toggle the power from a signal-level source, though, I take it I should use a contactor rather than just a relay?

if your connection is 120v then you would be using a single pole breaker is all you need and the Power filter on the input Power to the VFD Drive

So the filter goes between the breaker and the VFD, correct?

Remember the Breaker and contactor and cables have to be 125% higher rated that your max current rating of your system

I thought I knew how to handle this properly (and had sized my wiring appropriately before), but now I'm having second thoughts. Based on ger21's math up above (and some similar numbers that came up in conversation on another forum), it suggests that the drive would theoretically have to pull somewhere over 30A to deliver the nameplate 1.5kW. Needless to say, I don't have a 30-40A+ 120V circuit (and don't have a machine that could survive pushing the spindle that hard if I did). So do I have to worry about that, or should I just size the breaker/wire/etc to 125% of the circuit rating? The latter sounds like the obvious & safe option, but I've had holes shot through enough other "obvious" assumptions here already that I figure I better ask.

The Cable Gland if you use one has to be for shielded cable EMI control a normal Cable Gland will not have the added part for the shield Grounding

I noticed that when I started looking at the options, but thanks for the reminder.


-Bats

[mactec54]

If I wanted to toggle the power from a signal-level source, though, I take it I should use a contactor rather than just a relay?

No for signal level control a Relay is best, a Contactor is only ever used for Main Power supply disconnect

So the filter goes between the breaker and the VFD, correct?

Correct as close to the VFD Drive as you can

I thought I knew how to handle this properly (and had sized my wiring appropriately before), but now I'm having second thoughts. Based on ger21's math up above (and some similar numbers that came up in conversation on another forum), it suggests that the drive would theoretically have to pull somewhere over 30A to deliver the nameplate 1.5kW. Needless to say, I don't have a 30-40A+ 120V circuit (and don't have a machine that could survive pushing the spindle that hard if I did). So do I have to worry about that, or should I just size the breaker/wire/etc to 125% of the circuit rating? The latter sounds like the obvious & safe option, but I've had holes shot through enough other "obvious" assumptions here already that I figure I better ask.

Not everyone can have the ideal or correct power supply 240v 30A circuit is Ideal for the average cnc Router with a 2.2Kw spindle

These 1.5Kw spindles will run ok on a 20A supply but won't have there full power output stalling can be a problem, so will all depend on how you setup your speeds feeds and depth of cut, so you don't have a stall or overload problem

The VFD Drive can't pull more than it is rated current, if all the Parameters are set correct all parameters related to over current must be set for 100% in your case

The cable Breaker Etc need to be rated 125% X max current of the circuit

[batcrave]

So.... the new (identical model) VFD came in, I made a couple interesting discoveries, and came up with a few new questions....

Discovery #1: I currently have it wired exactly as before (I have the enclosure & filter, but I'm still waiting for a few parts to be delivered before I can put it all together), and found it interesting that, despite a several hour test run of the spindle, there were no noise problems whatsoever. I'm open to other explanations, but it certainly looks to me like the source of the problem was the old drive - not the wiring, shielding, not the BlackBox, PC, or other control electronics, and not any of the other environmental factors I'd speculated about.

Question #1: The one piece I don't have ordered yet is the breaker. I was looking at using one of these with either this breaker or this one inside it. Your advice (using a breaker rated at 125% of the circuit) has me a little confused - it suggests I should go with the 20A unit... but doesn't hanging a 20A breaker off the end of a 15A circuit defeat the point of having it there? Or is there some situation where it's actually possible to blow the 20A before the 15A in the breaker box trips?

Discovery #2: I initially tried setting it up with your recommended params, and it didn't work. The spindle would slowly crawl up to around 4-500rpm, and then the VFD would throw an overload (AoL). I even tried it with my old settings, which also didn't work. What finally did get it working was lowering the pd009 Intermediate Voltage. With pd009=13 it would start very sluggishly, but eventually get up to speed (even worse than my prior drive, which was also pretty slow to get started ), and with pd009=12 it was nice and quick.

Questions #2 & 3:
2) This is several steps down from your recommended pd009=15 (which didn't work at all) - is this going to be a problem?

3) And why would this happen? Is there that much variation between production runs of the same model? Is the new drive somehow defective? Or is something else going on?


Any (more) input you can offer would be appreciated.

-Bats

[mactec54]

So.... the new (identical model) VFD came in, I made a couple interesting discoveries, and came up with a few new questions....

Discovery #1: I currently have it wired exactly as before (I have the enclosure & filter, but I'm still waiting for a few parts to be delivered before I can put it all together), and found it interesting that, despite a several hour test run of the spindle, there were no noise problems whatsoever. I'm open to other explanations, but it certainly looks to me like the source of the problem was the old drive - not the wiring, shielding, not the BlackBox, PC, or other control electronics, and not any of the other environmental factors I'd speculated about.

Question #1: The one piece I don't have ordered yet is the breaker. I was looking at using one of these with either this breaker or this one inside it. Your advice (using a breaker rated at 125% of the circuit) has me a little confused - it suggests I should go with the 20A unit... but doesn't hanging a 20A breaker off the end of a 15A circuit defeat the point of having it there? Or is there some situation where it's actually possible to blow the 20A before the 15A in the breaker box trips?

Discovery #2: I initially tried setting it up with your recommended params, and it didn't work. The spindle would slowly crawl up to around 4-500rpm, and then the VFD would throw an overload (AoL). I even tried it with my old settings, which also didn't work. What finally did get it working was lowering the pd009 Intermediate Voltage. With pd009=13 it would start very sluggishly, but eventually get up to speed (even worse than my prior drive, which was also pretty slow to get started ), and with pd009=12 it was nice and quick.

Questions #2 & 3:
2) This is several steps down from your recommended pd009=15 (which didn't work at all) - is this going to be a problem?

3) And why would this happen? Is there that much variation between production runs of the same model? Is the new drive somehow defective? Or is something else going on?


Any (more) input you can offer would be appreciated.

-Bats

Yes the breaker could be a problem the only reason to have it is so you can isolate the drive in your cabinet 20A would be normal for that size spindle, which means you 120v circuit should be up graded to 20A also or even 25A

Give it time and the noise will be back once you install the filter then you won't have any problems

There will be nothing different about the VFD Drive in what it has inside it does not matter who the manufacturer is they all have the same basic parts some do have some filtering to be EMC compliant but a main power filter is still needed with all VFD Drives installs more so with single phase use

You can't set PD009 with out having the frequency parameter to match there are a lot of parameters that have to work with another parameter so this may be the reason, so did you try those parameter's at the default and only setting the main motor spec and drive startup parameters, sometimes the less Parameters you mess with the better it will run, if it is slow starting then something is wrong with your parameters settings

[batcrave]

Yes the breaker could be a problem the only reason to have it is so you can isolate the drive in your cabinet 20A would be normal for that size spindle, which means you 120v circuit should be up graded to 20A also or even 25A

Ahhh... I'd misunderstood the purpose, and thought it was being used like a fuse. If it's just being used as a cutoff (and I haven't misunderstood yet again), is there any reason I couldn't just use something like a 20-30A double-pole switch? I believe that's what I was eventually told to use on the Leeson drive on my lathe.

Give it time and the noise will be back once you install the filter then you won't have any problems

Oh, I'm definitely planning to use the filter & enclosure anyhow... I'm just puzzled by how the noise could just "be back" with (more?) time, when running it for hours on end hasn't shown any indication - and, similarly, why it wouldn't have cleared up before when everything was left completely powered down for hours at a time in between tests.

There will be nothing different about the VFD Drive in what it has inside it does not matter who the manufacturer is they all have the same basic parts some do have some filtering to be EMC compliant but a main power filter is still needed with all VFD Drives installs more so with single phase use

You can't set PD009 with out having the frequency parameter to match there are a lot of parameters that have to work with another parameter so this may be the reason, so did you try those parameter's at the default and only setting the main motor spec and drive startup parameters, sometimes the less Parameters you mess with the better it will run, if it is slow starting then something is wrong with your parameters settings

With all due respect, if something is wrong with my parameter settings, that means something was wrong with the list of recommendations you'd given, as quoted above.

This is what I'm using which, with the exceptions noted, should match your list:

pd000 0
pd001 0
pd002 1 (to use onboard pot)
pd003 400
pd004 400
pd005 400
pd006 2.5
pd007 20
pd008 120
pd009 12 (struggles to start with 13, overloads at the default 14 or recommended 15)
pd010 8
pd011 120

pd014 10
pd015 10

pd070 1 (for onboard pot)
pd072 400
pd073 120

pd141 120
pd142 7
pd143 2
pd144 3000

Aside from that, I haven't touched any other settings, which, as best I could tell, were essentially the same as the previous unit's defaults (whether or not those were factory defaults) - but if there are any others that you think are relevant, let me know & I can check those values too.



-Bats

[mactec54]

Ahhh... I'd misunderstood the purpose, and thought it was being used like a fuse. If it's just being used as a cutoff (and I haven't misunderstood yet again), is there any reason I couldn't just use something like a 20-30A double-pole switch? I believe that's what I was eventually told to use on the Leeson drive on my lathe.


Oh, I'm definitely planning to use the filter & enclosure anyhow... I'm just puzzled by how the noise could just "be back" with (more?) time, when running it for hours on end hasn't shown any indication - and, similarly, why it wouldn't have cleared up before when everything was left completely powered down for hours at a time in between tests.


With all due respect, if something is wrong with my parameter settings, that means something was wrong with the list of recommendations you'd given, as quoted above.

This is what I'm using which, with the exceptions noted, should match your list:

pd000 0
pd001 0
pd002 1 (to use onboard pot)
pd003 400
pd004 400
pd005 400
pd006 2.5
pd007 20
pd008 120
pd009 12 (struggles to start with 13, overloads at the default 14 or recommended 15)
pd010 8
pd011 120

pd014 10
pd015 10

pd070 1 (for onboard pot)
pd072 400
pd073 120

pd141 120
pd142 7
pd143 2
pd144 3000

Aside from that, I haven't touched any other settings, which, as best I could tell, were essentially the same as the previous unit's defaults (whether or not those were factory defaults) - but if there are any others that you think are relevant, let me know & I can check those values too.



-Bats

There are always adjustments to parameters needed I don't have a hands on with your setup or can see what it is doing the main Parameters are the important ones and they are set in stone and don't change for these spindles but there are some that will always need to be changed

Yes I see your PD006= Default then PD009= should be default also the 2 Parameters work together but because default is for 220v/240v you may have to do a compromise and see which numbers will work best so you have to change these 2 parameters to suit your spindle and power needs

A disconnect is Ok but should not of been said by Leeson that you only required a disconnect, as that is not normal wiring practices or requirements for a VFD Drive install, if you have a disconnect then there should be a suitable Breaker after it and then the EMI Filter I'm sure you where only talking to a sales person that said you only needed a disconnect

PD006 and PD009 so they work with your system if you have wrong numbers you will get over current and over heating so it is a frequency and voltage that you have to match up with your spindle spec's and your input power supply voltage

Noise You may have cleaned up as it was quite dirty the environment around the VFD Drive, just tidying up the connections work for a while EMI does not go away by itself a slight change with a Ground connection can make all the difference, but over time saturation of components break them down, EMI will return it's just a matter of time

[batcrave]

Yes I see your PD006= Default then PD009= should be default also the 2 Parameters work together but because default is for 220v/240v you may have to do a compromise and see which numbers will work best so you have to change these 2 parameters to suit your spindle and power needs

I'm not quite clear on what you're recommending here. Leaving PD009 at default doesn't work (although it did work on the prior unit)... so are you saying that now PD006 needs to be adjusted somehow too?

A little experimentation says that I can get it to start with a default PD009 - but only if I raise PD006 significantly instead. And since I understand PD006 even less than PD009, I'm going to have to ask for more specific advice on this.

PD006 and PD009 so they work with your system if you have wrong numbers you will get over current and over heating so it is a frequency and voltage that you have to match up with your spindle spec's and your input power supply voltage

The manual had the same warning - but it wasn't very clear on how to determine what numbers were "wrong" either. Or am I supposed to just just try some numbers, watch the heatsink temperature, and back off if it starts getting hot?

A disconnect is Ok but should not of been said by Leeson that you only required a disconnect, as that is not normal wiring practices or requirements for a VFD Drive install, if you have a disconnect then there should be a suitable Breaker after it and then the EMI Filter I'm sure you where only talking to a sales person that said you only needed a disconnect

Sorry, I wasn't clear on that - I didn't have any contact with Leeson beyond their manual. The recommendation to use a double-pole switch as a disconnect (as well as details of the fusing and other elements of the setup) came from a local toolmaker I'd gotten the drive from.

If you say the breaker is essential, then I'll use a breaker... but I'm having trouble figuring out what the purpose of it is supposed to be. At 20A it's too big to act as a fuse on a 15A circuit, so it sounded like you were suggesting it was meant to act as a shutoff or disconnect... but now you're talking about it in addition to a disconnect, and I realized I'm completely lost.

[edit: also, just to be clear on the order, you're saying it should go mains->disconnect->breaker->filter->VFD?]


-Bats

[mactec54]

I'm not quite clear on what you're recommending here. Leaving PD009 at default doesn't work (although it did work on the prior unit)... so are you saying that now PD006 needs to be adjusted somehow too?

A little experimentation says that I can get it to start with a default PD009 - but only if I raise PD006 significantly instead. And since I understand PD006 even less than PD009, I'm going to have to ask for more specific advice on this.



The manual had the same warning - but it wasn't very clear on how to determine what numbers were "wrong" either. Or am I supposed to just just try some numbers, watch the heatsink temperature, and back off if it starts getting hot?




Sorry, I wasn't clear on that - I didn't have any contact with Leeson beyond their manual. The recommendation to use a double-pole switch as a disconnect (as well as details of the fusing and other elements of the setup) came from a local toolmaker I'd gotten the drive from.

If you say the breaker is essential, then I'll use a breaker... but I'm having trouble figuring out what the purpose of it is supposed to be. At 20A it's too big to act as a fuse on a 15A circuit, so it sounded like you were suggesting it was meant to act as a shutoff or disconnect... but now you're talking about it in addition to a disconnect, and I realized I'm completely lost.

[edit: also, just to be clear on the order, you're saying it should go mains->disconnect->breaker->filter->VFD?]


-Bats

Try
PD006=140 or PD006= 200

PD009=46 or PD009=66

Only paired in this combination

Yes Normally Disconnect Breaker Filter, as I said before you need to upgrade your 15A circuit it is not suitable to run this 1,5Kw spindle 20A to 25A supply is needed

[batcrave]

Try
PD006=140 or PD006= 200

PD009=46 or PD009=66

Brilliant! Now it takes off like a shot. 140/46 gives me 0 to 7200 in <3 sec, and 200/66 is only about a second slower. That's at least 2-3x faster than the crawl I was used to with default settings on my old unit. Thanks!

Yes Normally Disconnect Breaker Filter, as I said before you need to upgrade your 15A circuit it is not suitable to run this 1,5Kw spindle 20A to 25A supply is needed

Actually what you said is "These 1.5Kw spindles will run ok on a 20A supply but won't have there full power output", and the spindle's on a little lightweight aluminum extrusion machine that's just not built for deep hogging cuts in the first place. As it is, even with a vacuum on the same circuit, I didn't trip a breaker - which suggests that my normal use just doesn't need the drive's full power, or couldn't take advantage of it if I wanted to.

Either way, new wiring unfortunately isn't in the cards right now anyhow (if it were, I'd have just run a 240V line and avoided this whole mess by getting a real VFD with some proper support), so the question comes back to "what size breaker should I use, given the circuit I have?" - not the circuit I wish I had.


-Bats

[mactec54]

Brilliant! Now it takes off like a shot. 140/46 gives me 0 to 7200 in <3 sec, and 200/66 is only about a second slower. That's at least 2-3x faster than the crawl I was used to with default settings on my old unit. Thanks!



Actually what you said is "These 1.5Kw spindles will run ok on a 20A supply but won't have there full power output", and the spindle's on a little lightweight aluminum extrusion machine that's just not built for deep hogging cuts in the first place. As it is, even with a vacuum on the same circuit, I didn't trip a breaker - which suggests that my normal use just doesn't need the drive's full power, or couldn't take advantage of it if I wanted to.

Either way, new wiring unfortunately isn't in the cards right now anyhow (if it were, I'd have just run a 240V line and avoided this whole mess by getting a real VFD with some proper support), so the question comes back to "what size breaker should I use, given the circuit I have?" - not the circuit I wish I had.


-Bats

The problem is the VFD can fail because of low current from the input supply, most that use the 1.5Kw spindle always have a problem with it tripping on a 15A circuit, so you either have a faulty Breaker that is not tripping or you are doing very light cuts

There is nothing wrong with the VFD Drive you have, there are thousands of them in use, a more expensive one would not be any better or last any better in the way you are using it

[batcrave]

The problem is the VFD can fail because of low current from the input supply, most that use the 1.5Kw spindle always have a problem with it tripping on a 15A circuit, so you either have a faulty Breaker that is not tripping or you are doing very light cuts

The breakerwould trip from the inrush any time I tried using my 15A compressor motor on it (since moved to the only 20A circuit) , so it's not completely faulty... but I definitely take light cuts with it. The machine's built for a spindle less than half this size (or, really, a trim router), and I'd tie it in knots if I tried anything heavy with it.

There is nothing wrong with the VFD Drive you have, there are thousands of them in use, a more expensive one would not be any better or last any better in the way you are using it

What's wrong with it is the fact that I'm sitting here struggling - with limited success - to get answers out of some guy on a forum instead of getting authoritative support from someone who's paid to give answers in English, rather than - begrudgingly - hand out a couple numbers with zero explanation.

While I do appreciate the information you've given me and the time you've spent to do it, this whole process has been like pulling teeth (if slightly more productive than the time I tried to deal with Huanyang support), and I'd happily have paid twice as much for the same hardware just to avoid it.

That aside, I'm not at all convinced there isn't something wrong with at least one of the drives, considering the fact that two identical VFDs with identical settings performed so much differently... but I haven't been able to get an explanation for that either, just a few more "use these and nothing else" magic numbers. The fact that they work does nothing to explain why they should be necessary.


So, again, thank you for the information you've been able to give me, and I apologize if I sound like my patience is running short... but this conversation increasingly feels like it may be even more frustrating than the problem it was meant to resolve.


-Bats

[maxspongebob]

Buy American. It might cost a few bucks more but at least they aren't trying to kill you.

https://www.weg.net/catalog/weg/US/e...BAL_WDC_DRV_IF

[batcrave]

Buy American. It might cost a few bucks more but at least they aren't trying to kill you.

Bah... No one's trying to kill me. If I were dead, they'd have to pay someone to take the money out of my wallet. As long as I'm alive, they can get me to do all the physical stuff for free.

Besides, the only reason US companies care about their customers not winding up dead is the inconvenient expense of lawsuits & all the pesky government regulation that tends to follow.

But homicidal or not, I do like supporting domestic companies when I can (call me quaint, nationalistic, or just fiscally irresponsible), and I liked the look of those WEGs you'd posted earlier (although I don't know how their support matches up). The only reason I went back to Huanyang is because no one else (for what seem to be very good reasons) was offering a 1.5kW drive in a 120V model, and I was assured using anything smaller with a 1.5kW spindle would be a Very Bad Thing... So until I can budget for paying off the property owner & bringing in an electrician, it looks like my hands are tied.


-Bats

[mactec54]

The breakerwould trip from the inrush any time I tried using my 15A compressor motor on it (since moved to the only 20A circuit) , so it's not completely faulty... but I definitely take light cuts with it. The machine's built for a spindle less than half this size (or, really, a trim router), and I'd tie it in knots if I tried anything heavy with it.


What's wrong with it is the fact that I'm sitting here struggling - with limited success - to get answers out of some guy on a forum instead of getting authoritative support from someone who's paid to give answers in English, rather than - begrudgingly - hand out a couple numbers with zero explanation.

While I do appreciate the information you've given me and the time you've spent to do it, this whole process has been like pulling teeth (if slightly more productive than the time I tried to deal with Huanyang support), and I'd happily have paid twice as much for the same hardware just to avoid it.

That aside, I'm not at all convinced there isn't something wrong with at least one of the drives, considering the fact that two identical VFDs with identical settings performed so much differently... but I haven't been able to get an explanation for that either, just a few more "use these and nothing else" magic numbers. The fact that they work does nothing to explain why they should be necessary.


So, again, thank you for the information you've been able to give me, and I apologize if I sound like my patience is running short... but this conversation increasingly feels like it may be even more frustrating than the problem it was meant to resolve.


-Bats

I don't know of any VFD Drive supplier that has experience with programing for these spindles so unless there is someone like myself then there is no support for any of the VFD Drives with these spindles VFD Drives in general are made for the industry and run regular 3 Phase AC motors that are normally programed by default for either 50Hz or 60Hz depending on what country you live in

Most Programing is the same for most of these spindles but sometimes there is a need for some tweaks, and if you don't understand the terminology or how a manual is written they can be confusing

All manuals only have settings for what VFD Drives are manufactured to run 3 Ph Ac motors 50Hz / 60Hz there is no manuals that are written for these high speed 400Hz 800Hz spindles it take experience working with these spindles to be able to program them for there best performance

There are no magic numbers what I have given you, they are calculated numbers based on what you have

I could give you many more Parameters to change / tweak as well but would only cause more confusion, on any VFD Drive you choose to buy it does not matter what brand name you use I have more than 80 different VFD Drive manufacturer's manuals and the Parameter setting list for all of them to suit for these high speed spindles

You will find that your original VFD Drive was never programed correctly but worked this happens sometimes but they also fail from not being set correct also as you have experienced but I believe yours failed from short circuit, no fault of the drive manufacture