Diving Head First... Huanyang 220v VFD + Water Cooled Spindle Upgrade on my G540/Mach

[mactec54]

Ok, placed order for the clamping style from Digikey.

https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...8102-ND/303956


and updated wiring diagram to make connection from FILTER GND to VFD GND

the clamp is will be attached to grounding plane (Case)
Attachment 431556

You don't need the extra Ground wire from the Star Point to the VFD Drive

[kinghong1970]

You don't need the extra Ground wire from the Star Point to the VFD Drive

thanks...

[kinghong1970]

so quick question,

i have 12AWG going from L15-20 Receptacle to the VFD Box.

from VFD to Spindle, 14AWG Shielded Stranded 4 Wires (3 black + 1 green) is enough?

thanks in advance,

Al

[kinghong1970]

I know, it's like watching paint dry... but small baby steps here... thanks for your patience.

decided to cut a sheet of aluminum to use for internal panel for the box. the box came with studs welded on it and the panel that they sell are very small.
this is a tighter fit but can easily insert panel and mount to box.


after test fitting, marking out the mounting holes, drill & tap 8-32...


dry fitting all components onto panel


panel fits nicely inside... a bit snug and i recall HY manual stating to give 50mm space around the sides of VFD...
wondering if this is too tight. i will have a 120mm fan actively pushing air from bottom of case.


decided to put the power cord and switch to side of case... front of case was getting too crowded.


some more wiring to be done...
thanks.

Al

[ericks]

Great job mate!

[kinghong1970]

Great job mate!

Thanks!

[mactec54]

so quick question,

i have 12AWG going from L15-20 Receptacle to the VFD Box.

from VFD to Spindle, 14AWG Shielded Stranded 4 Wires (3 black + 1 green) is enough?

thanks in advance,

Al

12AWG is ok just but 10 AWG should be closer to what you need for the supply cable 25A minimum

When you use quality shielded cable 16 AWG is more than enough for your 2.2Kw spindle you just have to be concerned with the bigger cable fitting your spindle plug, but if you are using a Gland at the spindle than not a problem

[kinghong1970]

Minor update before the Thanksgiving Holidays...

Mounted the box to the wall, inserted the electrical panel and connected power to VFD


Lights and switches work... no sparks, no pops, no burning smell... lol


Testing my watercooling loop... wow, the 1/4" ID tube and spindle is very restrictive... flow rate really sucks here...


Making sure no leaks on the spindle as well...


Maybe i'll get to program the VFD over the long weekend... but in any case, thanks all for your help!

Happy Thanksgiving Y'all!

[ericks]

Great job mate, i was just wondering how you were going

[mactec54]

Minor update before the Thanksgiving Holidays...

Mounted the box to the wall, inserted the electrical panel and connected power to VFD


Lights and switches work... no sparks, no pops, no burning smell... lol


Testing my watercooling loop... wow, the 1/4" ID tube and spindle is very restrictive... flow rate really sucks here...


Making sure no leaks on the spindle as well...


Maybe i'll get to program the VFD over the long weekend... but in any case, thanks all for your help!

Happy Thanksgiving Y'all!

"Same to you" looks good the flow is not a problem they don't need high flow just a Constant flow is all that is needed if it gets hot on the outside then you will know that the inside will be twice as hot

[kinghong1970]

Ok, some update time!

took the opportunity to re-wire the control box and clean up the mess...
these cable organizing comb kinda thing is so cool!

i think i'm going to re-cut my front bezel to get rid of some unused switches and stuff...

used shielded cable to connect VFD to G540 and grounded to the VFD enclosure


i realized that the dust shoe that i have was for the PC690 router... 3D printed a sleeve to i can fit it over the 80mm spindle and also an LED ring light enclosure


here's a closeup of the ring light, sleeve and dust shoe


and of course, why not... more LED!


and some clamps to keep the watercooling tubes and VFD cables organized... somewhat...


and checking VFD RPM vs spindle RPM...


got Mach3 working... used mactec54's setting i found somewhere on this website...
all seems to be working well for now...

now to tram and then to making chips...

thanks again!

Al

[ericks]

Well done Al...i am glad you got it all sorted

[handlewanker]

Wow, I hope all that work generates a pay back scenario of adequate proportions or is this just a super hobby need to do thing.....it's a pretty neat set-up anyway.
Ian.

[mactec54]

Wow, I hope all that work generates a pay back scenario of adequate proportions or is this just a super hobby need to do thing.....it's a pretty neat set-up anyway.
Ian.

If everyone did it a build like this there would be very few problems

[kinghong1970]

Wow, I hope all that work generates a pay back scenario of adequate proportions or is this just a super hobby need to do thing.....it's a pretty neat set-up anyway.
Ian.

lol... i hear ya... it's a "super hobby WANT to do thing" it's always a matter of WANT... hahaha
thanks!

[kinghong1970]

I knew it was too easy...

so overly excited to get motion... i decided to grab some more of liquid courage... put on my bits and try a plunge hole cut like the one you see in CNCRouterparts video for tramming and squaring...

Smoke... lots of smoke...
maybe too fast...

reduced feeds and speeds...

still smoke...

tried different bit...

still smoke...

day and half of messing with different settings.... still smoke...

and then it dawned upon me... my damned spindle was spinning backwards... lol!

google, cnczone search, google, search, google search... and couldn't believe it was that easy... "swap any of the 3 wires going from VFD to Spindle...."

nah, couldn't be... but what have i got to loose...

voila!

lesson learned...

1) you CAN carve holes ass-backwards on mdf... just not recommended... basement smells like burnt wood...
2) read and research... helps a ton...hahaha

some more squaring and tramming...


one of my better results...


left it at this for the evening...


don't really know how accurate i need/want on MDF measuring with a caliper...

oh, yea, still getting used to MDI... maybe i need to read up on soft limits more...to help me from future oopsie moments.
i'm glad that these expensive inductive sensors are mounted on 3D printed parts... sacrificed some PLA instead of the costly sensors...

i ran into my X by going G00 X-4.0 from too close to the home... maybe if i did G01 i'd be able to stop it in time...


same for my Y axis... lol


still trying to tune the Z to be closer though...

thanks

Al

[mactec54]

I knew it was too easy...

so overly excited to get motion... i decided to grab some more of liquid courage... put on my bits and try a plunge hole cut like the one you see in CNCRouterparts video for tramming and squaring...

Smoke... lots of smoke...
maybe too fast...

reduced feeds and speeds...

still smoke...

tried different bit...

still smoke...

day and half of messing with different settings.... still smoke...

and then it dawned upon me... my damned spindle was spinning backwards... lol!

google, cnczone search, google, search, google search... and couldn't believe it was that easy... "swap any of the 3 wires going from VFD to Spindle...."

nah, couldn't be... but what have i got to loose...

voila!

lesson learned...

1) you CAN carve holes ass-backwards on mdf... just not recommended... basement smells like burnt wood...
2) read and research... helps a ton...hahaha

some more squaring and tramming...


one of my better results...


left it at this for the evening...


don't really know how accurate i need/want on MDF measuring with a caliper...

oh, yea, still getting used to MDI... maybe i need to read up on soft limits more...to help me from future oopsie moments.
i'm glad that these expensive inductive sensors are mounted on 3D printed parts... sacrificed some PLA instead of the costly sensors...

i ran into my X by going G00 X-4.0 from too close to the home... maybe if i did G01 i'd be able to stop it in time...


same for my Y axis... lol


still trying to tune the Z to be closer though...

thanks

Al

You never want to mount your limit switches in line with the moving element, or this is going to happen, always mount to the side so they can not get hit by any moving part of the axis

[kinghong1970]

You never want to mount your limit switches in line with the moving element, or this is going to happen, always mount to the side so they can not get hit by any moving part of the axis

thanks... i guess time to re-print limit switch mounts.

now, if i set up soft limits and keep it active... every time i hit REF ALL HOME, it goes to the set soft limits and not beyond it?

[mactec54]

thanks... i guess time to re-print limit switch mounts.

now, if i set up soft limits and keep it active... every time i hit REF ALL HOME, it goes to the set soft limits and not beyond it?

If you are using Mach3 then you home the machine and then turn on the soft limits, sometimes it will do it automatically but mostly you have to Home with it off and then turn it on

[GME]

I knew it was too easy...

so overly excited to get motion... i decided to grab some more of liquid courage... put on my bits and try a plunge hole cut like the one you see in CNCRouterparts video for tramming and squaring...

Smoke... lots of smoke...
maybe too fast...

reduced feeds and speeds...

still smoke...

tried different bit...

still smoke...

day and half of messing with different settings.... still smoke...

and then it dawned upon me... my damned spindle was spinning backwards... lol!

google, cnczone search, google, search, google search... and couldn't believe it was that easy... "swap any of the 3 wires going from VFD to Spindle...."

nah, couldn't be... but what have i got to loose...

voila!

lesson learned...

1) you CAN carve holes ass-backwards on mdf... just not recommended... basement smells like burnt wood...
2) read and research... helps a ton...hahaha

oh, yea, still getting used to MDI... maybe i need to read up on soft limits more...to help me from future oopsie moments.
i'm glad that these expensive inductive sensors are mounted on 3D printed parts... sacrificed some PLA instead of the costly sensors...

i ran into my X by going G00 X-4.0 from too close to the home... maybe if i did G01 i'd be able to stop it in time...


same for my Y axis... lol


still trying to tune the Z to be closer though...

thanks

Al

You never want to mount your limit switches in line with the moving element, or this is going to happen, always mount to the side so they can not get hit by any moving part of the axis

I'm partial to a bypass sensor arrangement.

Here are some pics of my setup. You're a creative guy, so you should be able to figure something out. You will never crush a sensor with this arrangement.



This is the Z axis sensor. It's mounted in a 1/4" aluminum plate, which is threaded to accept the sensor.



This shot is of the sensor. It's just 2 pieces of steel angle tack welded together. The back leg is screwed to the back of the fixed part of the Z mount. The surface looking in the direction of the cable chain is the target for the sensor.



Another shot of the Z axis. You can see the steel target better. The photo show where the Z axis stopped when homing. The Pepperl & Fuchs sensors I have trigger with a very slight amount of overlap. Both my sensor and target are mounted in 80/20 extrusion-like channels, so they are easily relocated.



This photo shows a sensor on my Y axis. As you can see, it's pointing downward.



This shot was taking when I was working on squaring my gantry. The target is mounted on top of the extrusion just to the right of the Y axis mounting plate (just below the bar clamp screw). The target is an 1/8" thick piece of steel bar mounted to a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum bar stock. The 2 larger screws go through the steel and aluminum into 80/20 mounting nuts. The two smaller screw go into threaded holes in the aluminum.

I used steel instead of aluminum for the target, because the max sensing distance is greater for steel than aluminum. I really didn't need more sensing distance - no way I would crash into the sensor - but the greater distance made me "feel" better and I didn't mind doing the extra work.

There is another benefit derived from a bypass arrangement. You only need 4 sensors - 2 for Y (for homing purpose), 1 on X and 1 on Z. For X & Y, you just need to place targets near each end. Actually, at the back of Y, you only need one target,.

Since your are using an CNCRP/Avid machine, yours would be more difficult to set up. My frame is made up of 30/30 extrusions and my gantry mount is very different. I factored bypass sensors in when I built my machine.

Good luck.

Gary