Spindle Replacement - Swapping 110V with 220V Motor

[Infinitelow]

Hello - Basically a newbie, with that same YOOCNC 6040Z setup that is all over the place.
Running Mach3 on Win XP.
Bearings on my 800watt spindle got noisy so I bought what I *thought* was the correct replacement
spindle. All parameters are the same but the replacement is a 220V not a 110V like the original.
I have a 1.5KV Nowforever VFD (E100? is about two years old)
I see some info on line about voltage settings in the VFD -
Can I change a setting and use this 220V motor?
Or do I need to eat it and get the 110V motor
or a different VFD?

THANKS for any tips!

Similar Threads:

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• Need Help!- Change Motor voltage from 110v to 220v
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[mactec54]

Hello - Basically a newbie, with that same YOOCNC 6040Z setup that is all over the place.
Running Mach3 on Win XP.
Bearings on my 800watt spindle got noisy so I bought what I *thought* was the correct replacement
spindle. All parameters are the same but the replacement is a 220V not a 110V like the original.
I have a 1.5KV Nowforever VFD (E100? is about two years old)
I see some info on line about voltage settings in the VFD -
Can I change a setting and use this 220V motor?
Or do I need to eat it and get the 110V motor
or a different VFD?

THANKS for any tips!

Only if the VFD is 220v, if the power supply to the VFD is only 120v then you would most likely have to make that 240v supply to get the 220v output, so check the input power to the VFD Drive and then see if the VFD is rated for 240/220V

Some photos of what you have

[Infinitelow]

Thanks. Gotta take the control box apart and start looking about.
Original ad from seller said "110v 220v" but who knows without a pop open.
Was hoping for a menu change idea such is my naiveté with VFDs

[mactec54]

Thanks. Gotta take the control box apart and start looking about.
Original ad from seller said "110v 220v" but who knows without a pop open.
Was hoping for a menu change idea such is my naiveté with VFDs

It could not be both voltages if your spindle was 110v

If your supply power is 120v then it could have a VFD Drive that has a doubler in it which would take the 120v and then give you 220v, but if your old spindle has 110v on it then you won't have a doubler, but it is possible that you have a 220v VFD Drive, so in that case you would have to change you input supply voltage to 240v and rewire your control box this is not easy for someone new to this

[Infinitelow]

I hear you on that !
I got the Ebay seller (nice people) to accept a return with a restocking fee on the 220v spindle (hey, was my fault)
Then got a totally correct one on Amazon specs wise - but showed up with a different connector !
Waiting for the seller of THAT one to write back about supplying the connector for the cable to match..

Off on a new and more pressing problem now - The machine *was* humming right along for months now
(bearings aside) but in just the past few days started having intermittent tourrette's Syndrome fits.
In the process of cutting it starts making a disturbing sound and loses it place in the co-ords.
"GAGAGAGA" - noise stops, but now the cut is way off mark. And the "zero" point for the file is now off base.
You are right - I am a newbie and not too sure where to start with this diagnosis -wise.
Despite many years of expertise in audio electronics, clearly a lot I don't know about machine control....
I have read that the wiring harnesses of these Chinese machines are suspect from jump street
so I guess I will start there?
Could be: Control board? Wiring issue? Stepper motor? Ball Screw?
Going to search the heck out of this forum tonight for leads,
and then try cutting a large test pattern in different
locations (air cut with and without spindle powered) on the bed to see if it is location related ,
which I expect means mechanical(?).
Or time up and running related..
.

THANKS for any insights, and for your previous observations!

[mactec54]

I hear you on that !
I got the Ebay seller (nice people) to accept a return with a restocking fee on the 220v spindle (hey, was my fault)
Then got a totally correct one on Amazon specs wise - but showed up with a different connector !
Waiting for the seller of THAT one to write back about supplying the connector for the cable to match..

Off on a new and more pressing problem now - The machine *was* humming right along for months now
(bearings aside) but in just the past few days started having intermittent tourrette's Syndrome fits.
In the process of cutting it starts making a disturbing sound and loses it place in the co-ords.
"GAGAGAGA" - noise stops, but now the cut is way off mark. And the "zero" point for the file is now off base.
You are right - I am a newbie and not too sure where to start with this diagnosis -wise.
Despite many years of expertise in audio electronics, clearly a lot I don't know about machine control....
I have read that the wiring harnesses of these Chinese machines are suspect from jump street
so I guess I will start there?
Could be: Control board? Wiring issue? Stepper motor? Ball Screw?
Going to search the heck out of this forum tonight for leads,
and then try cutting a large test pattern in different
locations (air cut with and without spindle powered) on the bed to see if it is location related ,
which I expect means mechanical(?).
Or time up and running related..
.

THANKS for any insights, and for your previous observations!

Sounds like you are missing steps, meaning the motors are stalling, have you cleaned all the sliding parts lubed the screws Etc, this is a common problem with these machines, everything has to move freely, if everything slides free, then your drivers most likely need replacing, which is quite common, there is a thread here on the zone that is what they had to do as well

As for your plug, your chances of getting one the same would be hard to find as there are many different plugs like this, even using the same manufacture they could use different plugs, the main thing is that it is a 4 pin plug and you can change your cable plug

[Infinitelow]

Thanks - Yes, my research tonight indicated *could* be as simple as a clean/lube which I will certainly do.
The other spindle shipped with the appropriate cable end female connector, I found it odd this one did not.
They quote in the ad on Amazon it is a "GX16" waterproof aviation plug and they are all over Ebay.
Driver board? Is that the one per motor - assy?

[Infinitelow]

Going to change the water pump to one not using the PSU inside the control box - read it saves
current for the steppers (cheap experiment)

[mactec54]

Going to change the water pump to one not using the PSU inside the control box - read it saves
current for the steppers (cheap experiment)

Yes that may help but I doubt it as you have been running for a long time with it connected the way it is, that is strange it is connected to the power supply, normally most water pumps are 120v or 240v for the water pump

Those plugs come in many different forms even with the same part number

Would have to see a photo of the box to see what drives you have

[Infinitelow]

Yes, my pump runs off a connector on the back of the control box -
I have been fighting the uphill battle since I bought this thing -
My own vast ignorance on CNC, and the Chinese "cutting corners" thing
with these systems. But then that's the diff between $5k and $1200 !
I went into this knowing that!
It *was* working pretty well and cutting usable parts for my purpose...
All I cut is small custom guitar parts in acrylic and plexi using 1/8 (3mm) bits.
Stopped at an auto parts place and got white lithium grease and did the clean n' lube
tonight. I can shuttle every which way in Mach3 with no hiccups.
NOW for some real testing!
I have no real interest in CNC as an avocation/hobby as fascinating as it is.
Just got into this to do prototyping and custom on-off work of my designs.
I have a tremendous commercial shop that makes my parts for me as far as mass produced.
The guy is a Jedi master machinist whose bread and butter is custom machinery for
pharmaceutical companies, he does my stuff in his slack time and for amusement,
Will post pics of my box and THANKS!
Here is a link of my stuff being made on HIS machine -
I remember when his spindle went south and what it cost him (wow)

[Infinitelow]

Well so much for THAT being the answer - After migrating the pump to a solo PSU and the clean/lube it *seemed" OK.
But after being on an hour and doing two cuts again with GAGAGAGAGA and lost steps while shuttling the spindle a few inches.
THIS time was the "Y" axis instead of "X". so probably not the motor driver board?
Will take it apart this weekend and map out each unit in that control box so I can more effectively reference the parts for any ideas.
Ordered a UC100 unit to get off the straight parallel port interface - May or may not help.

[mactec54]

Well so much for THAT being the answer - After migrating the pump to a solo PSU and the clean/lube it *seemed" OK.
But after being on an hour and doing two cuts again with GAGAGAGAGA and lost steps while shuttling the spindle a few inches.
THIS time was the "Y" axis instead of "X". so probably not the motor driver board?
Will take it apart this weekend and map out each unit in that control box so I can more effectively reference the parts for any ideas.
Ordered a UC100 unit to get off the straight parallel port interface - May or may not help.

U100 are very good, I hope you got it from the manufacture or there distributors, as there are copies out there that are no good, but if it is a noise problem or a drive problem, the UC100 won't make any difference, it will give you a better performing machine, can you do some photos of inside the box, and the wiring in general there may be wiring problems, most of these are not done very well, but still say the drives are suspect

[Infinitelow]

Roger that - Got one (UC100) from the legit sources.
I hear you on the drives !!
Mapping the box innards and card versions today.
Then would gladly take recommendations for better Drive cards
that may be compatible with the rig as it is.
I fully understand about the wiring in these units. But agree more with the drives
as there *seems* to be a thermal aspect and that it did work for months without issue.
I did a test of the external wiring learned years ago servicing audio - "worked" (wangled and stressed)
the harness wires while running a test plot to induce a fault/interruption but no effect.

[Infinitelow]

OK here is my pics series -
And the named boards

YOOCNC6040Z cards
VFD = Nowforever D100R5S1B
STEPPER DRIVER (3) = YOC335
BOB = YOOCNC 450JKB
PSU = S350 - 24 - + 24VDC 14.6 A

Installing the new spindle motor now (sorting out the wiring)

[mactec54]

OK here is my pics series -
And the named boards

YOOCNC6040Z cards
VFD = Nowforever D100R5S1B
STEPPER DRIVER (3) = YOC335
BOB = YOOCNC 450JKB
PSU = S350 - 24 - + 24VDC 14.6 A

Installing the new spindle motor now (sorting out the wiring)

One main problem you have is there is no Grounding of the VFD and most other mounted units, they relied on the one Ground point at the Power Filter which I don't see in the photos, and through the coated metal box, this is a problem that will have to be corrected

You need to mount a Ground bar or stud for all the Ground wires to go to that one point, just some snips to give you what you need to have for you Grounding, the input Main Power supply Ground will attach to one of these methods and all the other components that need to be Grounded there Ground wire will attach at this point ( Star Ground )

The main mounting point must be free of Paint or Anodizing, for the Ground to protect the cabinet

[Infinitelow]

Hah! Thanks!
I am well and truly familiar with grounding as it is a huge issue in recording and television
studios (the work I have done for 40 years) But of course not as familiar with its relevance
in this scenario - I have used those blocks hundreds of times in gear racks and road case rigs.
You should see the huge copper bars we use - 8 foot by one inch by .25 inch in each rack,
a LOTTA copper....
Had not considered it here as , hey there's no low level audio signal to protect!
OK will do -
ANOTHER thing that just popped into my head...
The Chinese setup uses a thermally triggered fan, (mounted dead center back of the case)
which only comes on when there is quite a bit of heat judging by the blast of hot air out the back
I feel when it DOES kick on. in my experience it is better to dissipate heat all along rather than let it
build up and try to catch up...Could be a weak driver unit that gets dodgy as it gets hot???
I am going to replace with a constant flow fan tapped in the +24.
New spindle is humming OK
At least it is a 4 bearing not a 2 like the original. Otherwise the same - 400hz 800 watt 110v 24,000 rpm
Am I wrong that I did not reset anything in the D100 VFD as those are the same parameters as the original?

[Infinitelow]

Cut the fan over to constant "on" and added the grounding wires.
will cook it for a few hours tomorrow night and see if it is now more stable!
Also killed Quicktime which fro some reason was running on the machine,
read it was a suspect in timing issues.

[mactec54]

Hah! Thanks!
I am well and truly familiar with grounding as it is a huge issue in recording and television
studios (the work I have done for 40 years) But of course not as familiar with its relevance
in this scenario - I have used those blocks hundreds of times in gear racks and road case rigs.
You should see the huge copper bars we use - 8 foot by one inch by .25 inch in each rack,
a LOTTA copper....
Had not considered it here as , hey there's no low level audio signal to protect!
OK will do -
ANOTHER thing that just popped into my head...
The Chinese setup uses a thermally triggered fan, (mounted dead center back of the case)
which only comes on when there is quite a bit of heat judging by the blast of hot air out the back
I feel when it DOES kick on. in my experience it is better to dissipate heat all along rather than let it
build up and try to catch up...Could be a weak driver unit that gets dodgy as it gets hot???
I am going to replace with a constant flow fan tapped in the +24.
New spindle is humming OK
At least it is a 4 bearing not a 2 like the original. Otherwise the same - 400hz 800 watt 110v 24,000 rpm
Am I wrong that I did not reset anything in the D100 VFD as those are the same parameters as the original?

If every thing is the same with the spindle then there would be no need to make any changes to the Parameters

Yes a small fan running all the time is normally a good thing

The only thing I would of been changing was the Grounding of the power supply and the VFD and checking the Spindle is Grounded correctly as most are not

As for noise yes you have major noise from the VFD Drive EMI can be very troublesome from VFD Drives for low voltage electronics

[Infinitelow]

Cool - Funny thing is the orig spindle was not grounded, no wire in the multi for ground(!)
I added a ground to the spindle plug and brought out that wire to dress into the rest going to the
control box. Just installed the UC100 and *seems* to be working fine.
Not but to do now but run the thing and see if the issue is solved or not !!
Thanks again for the tips and I will be back with the good or bad news.

[Infinitelow]

Cut three parts with no issues - Promising!
Only thing now is some odd error messages when I close out Mach3
to shut down, that seem to be from the UC100 ?
Popups about "invalid hex parameters" while trying to close it.
Never saw anything like that before -
Will reinstall the USB drivers since this is an XP machine