Yaskawa CIMR MT3 15k Drive help!!!!

[smwmachine]

Hello all,
I have a YASKAWA CIMR-MT3 15K Spindle drive & I need some help. This machine has been down for three months. The spindle stopped mid run and gave alarm 10C (over-current) on the drive.
I am a small one man & wife shop and have been able to stay open for 20 yrs. due to fixing things myself. I'm no electronics person, but I've been able to get by with looking things over and testing what I can before having to spend big $ it's the only way I can keep things going these days. I find that just capacitors are usually to blame most often of the time, so I bought some high-end PACE brand solder and desoldering equipment. I have 3 Okuma twin turret live tool lathes & 1 KIA 21 lathe & it has this problem.
It blew the top IGBT #2DI200A-050P. This is the one controlled by CN9 & CN12 on the driver PCB. I found that the fan was not working and it was hot, so I replaced the two fans. I replaced the Module, and it ran for 1/2 a day then quite again with the same problem and alarms UV (under-voltage) 10C. It was not as hot as before, and the fans are working - temp meter says 90 deg. F. in the drive. I've tested all the caps and transistors on PCB's, and they are good or all nearly identical as per below.
I tested the following:

Meggered the motor all readings were good.
Thyristors 2M55DZ-H with DMM ohms across k1-g1 & k2-g2 all check 26-27 ohms except 1 of them is 19.
Thyristors 2M55DZ-H with 12v and light all checked good & functioning.
Transistors QM150E2Y-HD & QM150E3Y-HD with DMM diode mode all check as should.
IGBT the Top 1 straight short from C2E1 to E2 (same as 1st bad 1).
The software EPROMs are NSN000199L & NSN000199H it does not use a motor contactor.
Does anyone out there have info I could use to do some tests on the C343 PCB? It all looks brand new.

I replaced all the modules & diodes in the base & replaced all the caps & transistors etc. on the Drive PCB and caps on the CPU PCB. I run it at 200 rpm & it will reverse and seems o.k. at 200 rpm. The odd thing is when I take an amp reading on the R,S,T 210v input lines they do not read even R=3 amps, S=2.5 amps & T=1.5 amps. The output to the motor at U,V,W are all 5 amps at 200 rpms.

I have not replaced the reactor or breaking resistors they seem to check good.

Any advice is very much appreciated!!!! Thank you. Bill

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[mactec54]

Hello all,
I have a YASKAWA CIMR-MT3 15K Spindle drive & I need some help. This machine has been down for three months. The spindle stopped mid run and gave alarm 10C (over-current) on the drive.
I am a small one man & wife shop and have been able to stay open for 20 yrs. due to fixing things myself. I'm no electronics person, but I've been able to get by with looking things over and testing what I can before having to spend big $ it's the only way I can keep things going these days. I find that just capacitors are usually to blame most often of the time, so I bought some high-end PACE brand solder and desoldering equipment. I have 3 Okuma twin turret live tool lathes & 1 KIA 21 lathe & it has this problem.
It blew the top IGBT #2DI200A-050P. This is the one controlled by CN9 & CN12 on the driver PCB. I found that the fan was not working and it was hot, so I replaced the two fans. I replaced the Module, and it ran for 1/2 a day then quite again with the same problem and alarms UV (under-voltage) 10C. It was not as hot as before, and the fans are working - temp meter says 90 deg. F. in the drive. I've tested all the caps and transistors on PCB's, and they are good or all nearly identical as per below.
I tested the following:

Meggered the motor all readings were good.
Thyristors 2M55DZ-H with DMM ohms across k1-g1 & k2-g2 all check 26-27 ohms except 1 of them is 19.
Thyristors 2M55DZ-H with 12v and light all checked good & functioning.
Transistors QM150E2Y-HD & QM150E3Y-HD with DMM diode mode all check as should.
IGBT the Top 1 straight short from C2E1 to E2 (same as 1st bad 1).
The software EPROMs are NSN000199L & NSN000199H it does not use a motor contactor.
Does anyone out there have info I could use to do some tests on the C343 PCB? It all looks brand new.

I replaced all the modules & diodes in the base & replaced all the caps & transistors etc. on the Drive PCB and caps on the CPU PCB. I run it at 200 rpm & it will reverse and seems o.k. at 200 rpm. The odd thing is when I take an amp reading on the R,S,T 210v input lines they do not read even R=3 amps, S=2.5 amps & T=1.5 amps. The output to the motor at U,V,W are all 5 amps at 200 rpms.

I have not replaced the reactor or breaking resistors they seem to check good.

Any advice is very much appreciated!!!! Thank you. Bill

It would appear that the Braking circuit failed to cause the IGBT to fail, check the whole DC bus circuit

[smwmachine]

If the current draw is off like this wouldn't that be the rectifier. Also, I'm not sure I crossed the resistors correctly. I bought another drive just like it on eBay and it has 2 extra SCR Diodes wired in the DC bus circuit. One tech thought they may have been an upgrade to improve performance. I don't know if I should use them. Attached is a pic of the Brake resistor Regenerative Modules. My helper disconnected the resistor wires and forgot how they went. I labeled them E1, A1, C1 & K1 as in these pics based on how it looked like they came off I can not find any info about how these should go. It's probably pretty much common sense but I'm getting tired and confused can anyone help.

[mactec54]

If the current draw is off like this wouldn't that be the rectifier. Also, I'm not sure I crossed the resistors correctly. I bought another drive just like it on eBay and it has 2 extra SCR Diodes wired in the DC bus circuit. One tech thought they may have been an upgrade to improve performance. I don't know if I should use them. Attached is a pic of the Brake resistor Regenerative Modules. My helper disconnected the resistor wires and forgot how they went. I labeled them E1, A1, C1 & K1 as in these pics based on how it looked like they came off I can not find any info about how these should go. It's probably pretty much common sense but I'm getting tired and confused can anyone help.

Always take a photo, of anything like this that you are going to take apart, even a simple 1 off connection

The Diodes should be left in the new drive they are there for protection

[smwmachine]

I take pictures of everything I just missed getting the definitely one that shows the resistors going to which connections it's just out of view. The center pic is of my original unit the top and bottom ones are of the eBay unit it came off of an EDM machine. The extra diodes were in it not mine it also had no PCB boards just the base & 1 of the IGBT's in it was bad on the V output. Any ideas on which resistor leads go were my book shows them crossed & would you recommend I put those extra diodes in my drive? My drive has a fan on the heat sink the other one does not have one on it. Mine is slightly bigger overall, but they are matching drives both CIMR MT3 15k's what's the difference in the 15k.2 if any. Here is a print from my book showing the inside configuration I've made some notes in it.

[mactec54]

I take pictures of everything I just missed getting the definitely one that shows the resistors going to which connections it's just out of view. The center pic is of my original unit the top and bottom ones are of the eBay unit it came off of an EDM machine. The extra diodes were in it not mine it also had no PCB boards just the base & 1 of the IGBT's in it was bad on the V output. Any ideas on which resistor leads go were my book shows them crossed & would you recommend I put those extra diodes in my drive? My drive has a fan on the heat sink the other one does not have one on it. Mine is slightly bigger overall, but they are matching drives both CIMR MT3 15k's what's the difference in the 15k.2 if any. Here is a print from my book showing the inside configuration I've made some notes in it.

Both schematics look the same

[smwmachine]

They are but the 1st one was a pdf & it did not look like it was attached, I could not see it, so I reposted as a pic not a pdf. Now I see they both worked.

[smwmachine]

Finally fixed problem!!!!!!!! I had the Braking resistors wired incorrectly, the drawing in the manual is misleading. I had to draw out how the modules functioned and wire accordingly. Thanks to all Bill