Australian PRO4896-34 Build Log
Hey Guys,
Documenting my build log with a list of suppliers for any other Australian's that might be interested in a CNC Router Parts kit. Ahren was extremely helpful when I first contacted him about ordering a kit and with a little hiccup with fedex everything arrived here safe and sound. Below is a break down of parts.
CNC Router Parts
PRO Hardware Kit
4-Axis Plug and Play Nema 34 System
PRO Cable Track Kit
Proximity Limit Switch Kit
80mm Spindle Mount
Aluminium Extrusion
Modular Components - Ended up being cheaper than 80/20, they also cut to size.
Cold Rolled Steel
Bright Steels - Only place i could find that had the smaller size bar for the gantry. They charge per kg.
Misc Parts
2.2kw Chinese Spindle and VFD - ebay
Router Bits (Various) - ebay
RS485 to USB adaptor - ebay
Yet to order
Dust Extractor
Kent's Dust Shoe
Managed to construct the table over the weekend, only problem is I thought I took more photo's than that. With any luck I'll be able to start assembling a little bit each day this week.
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Have managed to get the majority of the base done over the last few days, have yet to finish squaring off and the connector plates. I've also seemed to have miscalculated the length of my table and ended up with roughly 15cm over hang each end, hopefully it shouldn't interfere with operation.
You shouldn't have any issued with the base being a short in the long direction- I ordered the leg kit with my package, and the distance between the legs is shorter than the length of the side rails, so it's not meant to be fully supported along the whole length. I would, however, consider maybe putting some brackets/kickers along the long dimension to help support the long rails- otherwise you're relying 100% on the bolted connections to support the long rails, since you only have support under the cross rails.
Nick,
Your table is looking really good! I agree that having your table a little short is not going to be a problem.
Best regards,
Ahren
CNCRouterParts
Not much progress the last couple of days due to work, but have managed to finish the splice plates and get everything square and level. Hoping to get the v-con rails done this afternoon with any luck.
@BobKovacs Yeah I'll be playing safe and adding some extra brackets especially after all the weight I added today.
V-con rails & pro gear rails attached today, have made a start on the gantry risers. Need to find my tap set so i can do the bumper brackets to do the alignment.
Gantry and z-axis on today, ignore the g-clamps i have to put the bumpers on still so i don't smack my head again with a flying z-axis.
Have run into a slight problem doing the motors this morning, missing one of the special pulley bolts :/ Have sent ahren an email.
Hey, how's this build coming? Have any more pictures to share? I'm planning to start a PRO4896-34 build myself in the next few months, so any tips and tricks you can share are always appreciated!
It's coming along, i've got more to post later. Am on holidays at the moment so have only being doing little bits here and there.
All wired up and working under control of mach 3. Stuff I still have to do is finish wiring up the spindle to the vfd, cooling, setting up a spoilboard (if anyone has recommendations on that it'd be great) & dust collection.
Nick,
For the spoilboard, I use chipboard or pine 90x40 sticks screwed down.
I found that MDF rises at every screw entry, so if you screw your material direct to the spoilboard, the MDF ends up with hundreds of bumps in it.
Pine 90x40 sticks worked ok, but were difficult to fit and sometimes split.
The chipboard seems to maintain its flatness even when screwed.
I put the sheet on the router, and ran a program to countersink all the mounting holes to 5mm material, leaving me around 12mm of material to spoil. I ended up screwing it down on a 200x200mm grid but i think that was overkill.
That being said, I haven't tried ply, but i assumed that it might have regions between each ply which might be ugly.
Cheers
Bushwakka
Ah cool, I was planning on using MDF since it's the cheapest material I can get out here. I'm mainly only going to be cutting from full sheets, but at the same time i'm thinking it might be worthwhile either doing grids of t-nuts or investing in some t track incase I want to do cuts on smaller pieces.
Nick,
I'm running a 2400x1200mm machine that has aluminium t-slot base.
Using slots and grids you can only hold the sheet on the edges. I found that it wants to lift in the centre (upcut bits), or forces chips uder the material if using downcut bits. This is with 18mm MDF and is exagerated if using thinner stock. I cut normally cut words etc, so full depth cut, anywhere (and everywhere) on the sheet.
I ended up mounting a sheet of MDF to the aluminium tslot base using nylon bolts and tnuts. Then I covered that with a sheet of chipboard that is screwed to the MDF. I use countersunk screws quite deep so i don't hit them with the router bit, I can take 10-15 x 0.5mm cleanup passes, and if I put a mounting screw directly over the board screw it is just in air. This double layer arrangement means I don't have to worry about where the t-slot bolts are in relation to my hold down screws.
Then I just screw the sheet I am cutting to the table and cut away. I put my mounting holes (anywhere from 4 to 100) as the first machining operation for the sheet, then put a compulsory stop in and screw it all down, then cycle start to cut everything else. It can handle not being screwed down for the mounting holes as they only go up & down, no sideways cuts so the sheet doesn't want to move. I use 2-3mm depth if cutting with a bit bigger than the screw shank, or full depth if cutting with 1/8" bit.
However, The MDF will be alright if you are not screwing into it. Its only that the fibres rise around each screw hole that make it not ideal for me.
Cheers
Bushwakka
Spindle is all wired up and working under control of mach3 using the Huanyang VFD plugin.
Have also completed the water cooling for the spindle. I wanted it to be a closed system for less maintenance and think it turned out quite well. Was a little stumped at first as to where I was going to mount it, but came up with a nice little solution on the Y axis.
Also don't know if i mentioned it earlier but I drilled and tapped the water ports on the spindle out to 1/8" BSP, was alot easier adapter to get locally than the original size. Hose is 3/4" External, 1/2" Internal.
Bracket for the Y axis.
Mounted on the Y.
System filled and bled, just have to wire up for turn-on via vfd.
Had a go at carving the aztec calendar this morning on some scrap mdf. Should have used the 60 degree bit considering how small i made it but it's part of the learning process I guess lol. Used the 1/4" 90 degree v-bit at 2540 mmpm for a test of the machine speed, cut at 250mm x 250mm.
Nick,
I recommend sealing the MDF before cutting, with some sort of finish like polyurethane, shellac, or lacquer to harden the surface and help prevent chip-outs. In the Download folder on my website are some files for the Mayan Haab calendar also.
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com
Hello Mr Nick,
I am considering a kit for CNC Router Parts... I saw the original kits have quite a bit of success, even with the skate bearings...
How do you feel about the steel guides, and V bearings on the new PRO setup?
Do you feel it is pretty Solid? Any concerns? Great job on your build....
I am looking at building a 48x96 machine to cut plywood parts... mostly with 1/4" bits.
Congratulations on your machine.
\
Frank
@CarveOne Sweet i'll check those out. Was only a test on some scrap to see how fast I could cut it
@Frankmali17 No complaints so far, runs nice and smooth & yes it's very solid. Very easy to assemble & align aswell which was why I chose to go with it.
Re: Australian PRO4896-34 Build Log
Hi Nick,
I see it is about 4 years ago now that you did your build. I am near Newcastle in NSW and am wanting to do a build just like yours, mostly machining full sheets of ply etc. I was wondering what your long term thoughts are on how your build went. Is there anything that has failed after a few years of use?
Also can you give me some details of what extrusions you bought and the measurements.
Did you have any issue with import duties and customs?
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