In the closeup picture above, the main bracket(blue) was salvaged from a discarded garage door opener and cut off to fit.
The "inside" bracket's extra hole was existing in another salvaged plate from somewhere. The cover "floats" between the two as the x axis glides back and forth. The signal wire is secured with a small clip fitted with a rubber sleeve to achieve tightness.
PowerLift addition
Mill head motorized Height adjuster...
The motor came from ebay for total $31 bucks with shipping.
Mount posts were from old discarded rod, faced and threaded 1/4" on bottom, 10-32 on top(leftover seen in foreground).
Lower coupler was 1/2" milled square to fit drive screw end.
Last edited by Bloy2004; 03-04-2004 at 01:10 PM.
Broader view...
The unit is solid. ....Very smooth and quiet in operation using a (on)off(on) momentary switch mounted on panel.
Further improvements....Limit switches to auto stop at top and bottom. This will eliminate keeping close eye on travel.
...am looking for a dome shaped object to paint blue and cover the setup. Maybe a large obsolete fire extinguisher?
Last edited by Bloy2004; 03-04-2004 at 03:44 PM.
RPM/indexer sensor
Here is the installation of the rpm and indexing sensor for use with Mach2 in threading operations and other functions.
Wider tape strip changes signal timing enough for Mach2 to recognize spindle position. Extra "thinner" tapes allow Mach2 to make sub-corrections for threading.
Last edited by Bloy2004; 03-04-2004 at 01:53 PM.
Closeup of sensor...
This is a "reflective" type unit.
220 Ohm resistor for LED protection is embedded in liquid rubber applied to protect connections. Large Washers under bracket give sensor correct "reading" distance.
Last edited by Bloy2004; 03-04-2004 at 01:55 PM.
Wow, some real nice mods there. I will be very interested to see how well the RPM sensor works.
It works... gives the rpm of the spindle.
I'm learning how to apply it to threading....
Here's some more pictures of utility and safety features added.
...this photo is from the side and depicts the covers for the millhead lift motor and the related limiting switches.
..These are the limit switches set up and uncovered. If they fail, the millhead unit will bottom out, or top out, without damage, but is very stressful to the motor and brass ACME nut and screw.
Last edited by Bloy2004; 03-31-2004 at 10:55 AM.
Indicator lamps and Up-down switch..
Green indicates bridge column is tight(locked) and that the mill is ready for operation. power to the millhead lift motor is not available.
Red would indicate that the bridge column is loose and that power is supplied for raising/lowering the millhead.
The lights also indicate when the machine is plugged in(power to the entire machine).
I can't find my Transfer letters for a plate to designate the functions, but for now ,since I'm the only operator, there isn't a problem.
Last edited by Bloy2004; 04-10-2004 at 11:49 AM.
Bloy, you're doing such a fine job here, that it will a shame to use it! Keep it up
the safety switch on the bridge and support column. it's a basic spdt with a little roller on the switch arm that extends through the bridge plate and rolls on the spider hub. When the spider is tight, the roller is compressed and sets the indicator lamp while cutting power to the lift motor. The lift motor could really rack the machine if operated while the bridge is secure....thus the safety switch/lamps.
a protective cover for this is forthcoming.
Last edited by Bloy2004; 03-31-2004 at 10:53 AM.
...Just a backed off view to see the motor cover and other features incorporated into the machine.
Can anyone guess what that cover over the millhead lift motor might be?
Last edited by Bloy2004; 04-18-2004 at 01:41 PM.
Kong!
I know what you're saying....
I've used the machine quite a bit for this and that, but I got tired of sharing the crank that was used for relocating the belts(untensioning) and also for cranking up the millhead... so I had to accomplish this mod for future ease of use.
....all part of the hobby....
..there are prepared G-codes of imported jpg's(a nice feature of Mach2) that will be rendered in wood, so now I've got to devise some sort of vacuum
cowling to capture a high percentage of wood chips/dust before fixturing and routing materials.
..don't want to give the machine's joints a bad case of arthritis.
...then there's the coolant setup...only recently added a shelf under the table frame to support this.
....and too, I'm still studying/practicing threading for making that "four start" thread component of my brother's gun reloading antique.
Last edited by Bloy2004; 03-31-2004 at 11:28 AM.
Kong
I'm saving up now for a new cleanup brush.....the bristles on the old one are stubbles now.
Hehe, just wait 'till you get the flod coolant setup! I took the first cuts with my new lathe yesterday, and that coolant got everywhere - the bolt holes that hold the lathe to the stand were even leaking, but I got some silicone in there now
Ya! I'm nervous as hell about turning on the flood...probably why it's been delayed for so long...
Back when first mounting the bed to the stand, I added rubber gaskets and sealant to the bolts that pass through the "tray"(stand top) and plugged the extra holes with epoxy... Have been looking at all sorts of videos of flooding operations to get an idea of how the liquid disperses while cutting.
Shoptask rebuild:
[url]http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2139[/url]
Home built gantry router:
[url]http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5049[/url]
The biggest problem I have, is that the drain plug is proud of the tray by about 1/16", so after I am done, I need to soak up the last bit of coolant with paper towels. I'll get something sorted out at the weekend, I'm thinking of using the drain section from a wash-basin plug hole. Sorry, now I'm taking over your fine thread with my own problems!
not at all!.....that's what the purpose of this thread is for! I'm demonstrating how I solved problems on the machine and you are inputing yours.....which happens also to be a problem that confronts me yet.
I can see that when using flooding, it will collect in my tray around the edges...there is an upward buckle in the center region. Have thought of maybe attaching a bracket to "pull" the center down and maybe allowing most to drain there.
Another option would be to have multiple "drains" around the perimeter all joining to the common basin for filtering and recycle.
A third option would be to "cant" the whole setup (table and machine) slightly forward so the coolant flows forward and collects along the front edge where is then drains....seems to me that as long as all the planes and axes remained aligned that would be okay. I'm not sure if I would want to slope the machine away and to the back....either way it won't be much.
Let me know of YOUR solution. okay?
Last edited by Bloy2004; 04-01-2004 at 03:41 PM.
Here we go, the current problem I have, is the exit hole on the right is too high. I thought of adding a drain like the ones used on the bath-tub or sink, which is secured by a single central screw.
As you can see, the screw is central, so no big rim to get in the way of the coolant, and I can drill the 8 or so holes in the tray for good coolant flow. From the underside, I will need some sort of "blanking cap" to seal the drain, then I can epoxy a brass hose connector in place.
The only problem is loads of swarf may get washed down there, but since I have a crude plastinc filter on the coolant box, Ihoep this will not be a problem. I will get this implemented at the weekend, since my father has a lot of plumbing gear to save me buying it. Should be ok
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