Got my MR-J2S40 Mitsubishi servo drives turning and a few questions..

[simpson36]

With the Mitsu MR-C you have to supply the 24v also. To get a connection for tuning, you also need a separate RS232 interface option. I think both of these are built into the MJs.

That's a monster of a machine you have there. Certainly if the MJs are working for you, they should do the trick for me!

I read this thread front to back when I first found it. Any chance of me getting the tuning software for the MJ series? steve at thecubestudio dot com.

[battwell]

!

[simpson36]

Took the plunge. Just bought:

MR-J2S-40A and KFS43K

Should do a great job on my 4th axis!

[battwell]

the 400 are half horsepower. feel way stronger. you could run your mini lathe direct drive off these!
i use a 750watt direct drive on my 36" wood lathe and you wont stop it!

[simpson36]

Currently I am using a DC servo motor rated 170 oz-in cont and 850 max

The mitsu 400 watt motor comes in with higher cont (184), but lower max (536)

I can pump 35 amps into the 72V DC servo motor for 2,500 watts instantaneous. The Mistu maxes about 1,200 watts.

However, I *suspect* that the DC servo motor max ratings are at a full stall . . like they now rate consumer electric motors . . which is only a meaningful number for maybe 30 seconds until the smoke gets out.

It should make an interesting comparison.

My X axis motor is rated 50 oz-in cont and the little 200 watt Mitsu comes in at 90, so that should also be interesting. Waiting now on new pulleys to fit the Mitsu's friggin' huge shaft.

[battwell]

thats not huge. the 2kw mitsis i have use a 32mm output shaft!

by the way. i made a fun video of me (drunk) riding on an axis powerd by a 200 watt yaskawa motor. admittedly through a gearbox but moving at 20m per minute with enough acceleration to throw me off! and im 100kg.
i took it off utube in case my life insurance co saw it!

[vigen20]

Hey again
I also purchased the MR-C drives and HC-PQ23 servos, but I'm still struggling with connecting the Breakout board with the drives. Could anybody point me which pin is STEP, which is DIRECTION of the CN1 plug and what else do I need to do to make them work with Mach3?
The breakout board that I have, has 5 outputs 5V,ENA,CLK,DIR,GND.

Thank you battwell for directing me to this thread, I found lot's of informations on it but still can't make it turning by Mach2/3.

[battwell]

have you downloaded the manual for it?
np and pp on the j series.
i havnt wired a low res one like you have.

but theres lots of other things you need too.

emg
servo on
fwd limit
reverse limit
may need a 24v psu? not sure
it wont run without theses connected
if you want me to look send me a link to the manual

[simpson36]

I don't quite get the CLK because Mach is STEP and DIRECTION only one the axis.

For the moment, let's assume CLK is gotin to have the STEP signal on it.

There are two ways that I hooked up the MR-C. IN both cases I followed the schematics in the manual. I am hearing that with the J2S series, you can go directly to the 5V TTL pins on the BOB, but I have not done that and I also don't know if it would be the same with the MR-C.

The MR-C does not have any internal 24V so you need to supply that. Connect 24V + to the CN1 pins 1 (V+), 20 (V24), 19 (OPC).

Edit: and of course ground to pin 12 (SG) or 5(SG). I used 12 for thr 24V ground and 5 for the signal ground, but I don't think it really makes any difference.

Use pin 16 (5V) OR pin 20 (24V) bot NOT BOTH.

[simpson36]

Once the power is squared away, you have the signal lines.

The whole interface seems to work by grounding the drive's signal pins back to the drive, so that is how I did it. You need to connect pin 17 (SON) to ground or the drive will not output anything.

I connected a transistor across pin9 (PP) and pin 5 (SD) and another across pin 7 (PP) and pin 5 (SG) and then triggered the transistor gates with the STEP (to PP) and DIR (to NP) signals from the BOB. The schematic for this is on page 3-10 of the manual.

Later, I built a little circuit board to covert the BOB outputs to differential and connected per the respective schematic on that same manual page.

I *think* that will get you going.

[simpson36]

I uploaded the manuals to my web site. You can get them here:

http://www.thecubestudio.com/CNC/MRC.pdf (10MB)

and for the J2S here:

http://www.thecubestudio.com/CNC/MRJ2S.pdf (6MB)


battwell; My J2S drive and 400W motor are on their way and today I received the connecters and wire to make up the cables. I built a couple more differential boards too, so I'm really anxious to get my hands on the new stuff. I have new pulleys coming friday to install the MRC 200W motor to my mill table and try that out. Too much fun!

[simpson36]

OK, I have just fired up my new J2S and 400 watt motor. Friggin' amazing performance.


QUESTION for anyone with a PQ-23 motor;

unpowered, as you turn the motor shaft, is it dead smooth, or do you feel definate detents from the magnets?

I ask because I got the 20 watt motor used and the 400 watt motor is new. The 400 watt motor has definate tight detents as the shaft is turned and the 200 watt motor has none, zip, zero.

[battwell]

the detent feeling is when the drive is switched off all wires are shorted together. u v w

if you unplug the motor so wires arent shorted it will be smoothe

(shorting the wires helps brake the motor to a stop)

[simpson36]

The 400 watt motor, specifically the HC-KFS43K, has definate magnetic detents (about 10) even when disconnected from the drive. Maybe because the motor is brand new, I don't know.

I have info from a servo repair shop that if the a motor turns smoothly, it means it has been demagnetized and that in the case of Mitsu, this means kaput as they cannot be repaired.

Then I have info from owners of the 200 watt PQ-23, in one case a brand new motor, that say the motor turns smoothly like mine with no detectable detents.

So, at this point, the jury is still out.

[battwell]

disconnect the motor from the drive,
make sure none of the wires are touching each other
should turn smoothe
now connect the wires, should turn rough!

(ive been using, testing, setting up and repairing mitsubishis for years)

[Al_The_Man]

disconnect the motor from the drive,
make sure none of the wires are touching each other
should turn smoothe
now connect the wires, should turn rough!

This principle was used for many years in DC drives for resistive braking.
Al.

[simpson36]

Thanks for the info. I am familiar with dynamic braking. The motors behave as described, but my question reeally was about why there is a difference between the two motors and if that is normal or not.


A more challenging question is why the MR-C drive seems to 'boot up' differently if the 24V power and the CNC (Mach 3 in this case) is active, than if it is not (i.e turned on after the drive is up).

Sometimes the drive runs the motor very smoothly and does not get hot and other times the motor runs roughly and the drive and the motor both get very hot. This is with the drive on the bench not connected to anything.

If the motor is running rough, I can cycle the 220V and the drive comes back up and runs the motor smoothly. Pretty odd, methinks.

I ran the 200 watt motor on the X axis today and eventually it settled down and did a good job. Tomorrow maybe I will have a chance to try the 400 watt motor with the newer and more capable J2S drive.

[battwell]

leave the drive 24v powered. use a mach enable output to switch son or wire estop output to emg so drive halts when mach is in reset
does the mr-c have auto tuning? if so is it switched on?

the j2s auto tunes perfectly in seconds
they shouldnt get hot unless working hard

how have you set acceleration in drive and in mach?

[simpson36]

the MR-C does have auto tuning, but it seems far less sophisticated than the J2S. For example, running the motor on the bench with no load seems to confuse the MR-C where the J2S just compenstaes in a few seconds and has the 400 watt motor runing smoothly at max speed with instantaneous stops. The MR-C often starts hunting with a slow oscillation of around 45 degrees when it should be stationary.

Since the MR-C drive seems to have extensive self diagnostics, I am inclined to believe that a problem with the drive would throw an error code, so the odd behavior may be normal or perhaps an indication of a bad encoder.

Question on the MR-C and 23PQ motor: once connected to the X axis, the motor 'sings' or 'buzzes' when stopped. Is this normal?

[shujah]

attached is the file of Melservo setup151E file.
i tried to upload but faild . so if any body need this software just email me
shujah99@live.com