are drives enabled etc and end of strokes connected or disabled in drive too?
have you tested the drives with setup /test software?
24 volts from the mrj2s . gnd also from drive
pin 10 24v pin 9 ov (with pip on left pin 9 is bottom right 10 is opposite it )
pin 1 step input pin 18 (opposite to 1) step output to drive (drive x)
pin 2 dir input pin 17 (opposite to 2) dir output to drive
3 4 to 16 15 for drive y
5 6 to 14 13 for drive z
7 8 to 12 11 for drive 4
il have to check parameter 21 as im not near my config list
are drives enabled etc and end of strokes connected or disabled in drive too?
have you tested the drives with setup /test software?
0 0000
1 0001
2 0105
3 4096 2, 3 are my gearing for reduction 2;1 and 5mm ballscrews. (older motor series)
4 125
19 000e
21 0011
41 0110 disables end of strokes. 0111 also switches servo on
disregard the sofware question! you supplied me. lol
Looking in to parameter setting now... did not think about end of strokes.
Last edited by CncForMe; 08-20-2009 at 11:51 AM. Reason: more
that should of been parameters 3 and 4 for gearing!
(still have trouble getting my head around working it out after a few beers)
if you are using the setup software and have the same ratios on all drives you can simply plug the communication cable in and "write al"l to each drive
thats how i set up drives i sell for people and test on my rig before sending out
(the reverse polarity solution i havnt tried as i had already wired the chip into rig. but as the drives want 24v and as thats what the manual shows thats how i advise people to do it. so its really easy to fault find in the future as its easy to check both the 5v signal in and a 24v signal out)
Don't understand, in position control mode do your servos lock up just powered on with no signals? Mine only seem to work in the setup test software. Seems wrong to me.
yes. if there is no signal they dont move! they hold exact position until told to move. if you try to move the motor it will move back! thats why they are so accurate. if you tell them to move 5mm etc thats what they do and wait for next command.
have you got drives wired to mach 3 etc?
set axis to roughly its centre by jogging that axis
if so set x axis dro to 0 by highlighting it , typing 0 enter
now type g0 x100
motor should move axis 100mm as fast as it will go
for the first moves be ready to kill the power!
its easier to set motors/drives up on bench first but the axis test shows you have gearing set right
In some detail here is the point I am at. Running mach 3 using a breakout board from CandCNC (UBOB). Trying to get some steps or something into the drive. Works fine in the test program. Got the parameters set but the servo does not lock up staying still like it does while working in the test software. Really failing at the electronics so far, does the open collector output get tied back to the uln2803a as well as the 24 volt VDD pin? Can't get the cumulative pulses to show anything but zero so I guess no pulses are going to the drive.
ok. have you got son switched on? (son =cn1b pin 5 to sg=cn1b pin 10 or 20)
or set parameter 41 to 0111 this switches servo on and disregards limit switches.
have you got setup manual? if not send me email address and il send it.
are any alarms showing on drive? ie a7 ??
also emergency must be wired cn1b pin 15 to sg pin cn1b pin 10 or 20
sg is the common for emergency stop, servo on, limits etc
if these are not connected you get nothing out!
the servo test software switches these on automatically to allow testing. in the machine they have to be wired or turned off in parameter 41.
re open collector output... not required. that is for example if your using 2 drives on an axis (slaving) and you want both to follow one signal (the output from one would be fed into the input of the other.
can also be used by a full motion card ie galil to tell it where servo is.
basically all you need to run is
power in on l1,2,3 l21 l22 which you obviously have
emergency to sg 15 to 10 or 20
son to sg 5 to 10 /20
limits to sg 16 17 to 10/20
motor encoder plugged in
***also connect vdd to com pin 3 to 13 which enables internal 24v power supply to circuits ( pin 3 is going to be your +24v output to pin 10 of 2803a chip. sg pins 10 or 20 will be your 0v to pin 9 on chip)
all above on plug cn1b
-------------------------------
below are plug cn1a
step in (pp) dir in (np) pins 2 and 3
gnd (ov) pin 11
damn that took a while to write out. you owe me a beer! (if it works)
just sitting here with a beer remembering soldering the first connector in a hurry when i wanted to see it all move! bet you burn your finger, bet you swear!
the mitsubishi drives are some of the best ive come accross when you get used to them.
by the way. im pretty sure all that was right but accept no liability for errors in my instructions
Let me start by saying who I am, I work with CnCForMe but didn't want to post under his name so I made my own account. I have been pulling my hair out trying to figure all of this out with him and its been quite an adventure so far...
I was doing most of the soddering for the plugs, and yes, burning my fingers somehow always happens lol
So I went ahead and set parameter 41 or '0111' from '0110', gave everything a power down and back on and presto, mach3 can now jog the gantry around, its AWESOME, we are far from finished with this build but that is a HUGE relief; obviously I missed a pin somewhere that was bypassed with parameter 41. I just wanted to thank you for all the help you have given thus far.
Mostly likely we may have to pick your brain some more in the near near future here, if you don't mind... Thank you again!
thanks for the awesome comment. i must say i totally agree! lol
glad you got it going.
the parameter change you made was the servo on command
im sure someone else will read the post and get some help from it too.
even with the pdf manual it took me a couple of hours to get the first one up and running.. now its a few minutes.
the only annoying thing is i have to keep buying them in the states or korea as theyre very rarely available in rainy britain.
now you just have to work out the maths for the electronic gearing. ha ha ha.
You helped us so much it can't be said. Maybe, maybe we would have figured all that out on our own in a couple weeks. This is and continues to be a very large project that is self financed on a shoe string for my company and today with your help it seems to have become a real payoff. Plus I might be nuts because this is my first build and I defiantly bit off more than I can chew. 10 x 4 foot travel, 30MM linear rail, 4 AC servos (kind of complex), and 4 arc minute backlash planetary gear reducers all a little much. However again with your help today it has all come together or at least is very foreseeable now. If I could afford the shipping I would buy you a case of your favorite beer. Pics to follow.
Last edited by CncForMe; 08-20-2009 at 11:27 PM.
Don't pay much attention to all this temporary wiring.
very similar to something ive penned up here (except mine will have 1 side rail set at bed height to allow easy access to the work, with y axis beam extended down to it)
where did you get the gearboxes?
is it all 400watt drives?
what router head are you going to use?
ive been searching all over for a good auto tool change spindle of about 5hp
iso 30 using er32 collets (same as my old commercial router its replacing.
if your tempted to go without tool change, watch the video!
the things i make require 4-5 tool changes per job!
how much are you up to with this in $ so far?
Last edited by battwell; 08-21-2009 at 04:17 AM.
"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZLYvTfDw50"]YouTube - Biesse CNC point to point at work with close ups
also. quick question.
how are you going to level the bed? are you going to use riser studs from underneath? trepan the bed with the router once complete?
on my biesse i made new pods for vacuum hold down from nylon. 1 is 0.25 of a mm higher than the others but it really can notice on a job which annoys me. especially if you running a 45 degree bevel along the edge of a job to give you a nice edge.
all my machining has to be done to 0.1mm for my kits to assemble perfectly