Made it farther along with the stand. Next on the to-do list is welding in nuts for the mill base to bolt to, come up with shelving (currently thinking of just 1/2" plywood) and paint.
A start to a new larger and movable stand. ( currently on its side )
36" x 36" x 26" tall plus ~3.5" for the casters. The base kicks out an extra 2" on each side where The casters will be welded making that 40" wide.
Made it farther along with the stand. Next on the to-do list is welding in nuts for the mill base to bolt to, come up with shelving (currently thinking of just 1/2" plywood) and paint.
Needed to make some room and move the mill to a better location so it went on the stand today. It was definitely challenging since the cherry picker didn't straddle the wide stand well. In the end I had to set the mill down and reposition the hoist as seen in the one picture. Next up will be the catch tray, it's frame, and then enclose it.
looking good!
Added a few more of the eBay TTS tool holders to my collection and threw in some random endmills to make them feel important.
I also bought a Huot er20 collet rack because I saw the hole sizing was just a little over 3/4" and would work perfect to hold my tools upright. Buyer beware, the stock image for this rack makes it look larger than what it is-- same goes for the endmill dispenser in my opinion. It'll be repurposed for the actual er collets once I get a better rack system.
Then in this picture here, we're looking at about $300 in 18 and 20 gauge stainless sheets for the mill enclosure. *Some assembly required.*
I had some time to get a couple pieces bent up today. The 20 gauge was easy to knock out-- kind of wish I had a corner notcher instead of a hand shear though. In time....
I'm thinking of putting plexiglass in the side pieces but am not sure of the current opening I drew on there of 22"x22". Seems a little small with the panels being 38x42 on the large face. I'm also thinking of a larger corner radius of the windows.
I would recommend side doors. You might not have a need for them 99% of the time, but for those odd jobs that you want to tackle you will be glad you put them in. I had a friend ask me the other month to square up the edges of some track saw guides. Having the side doors made it possible.
Work: Hurco VMX42/VMX50 - Shopsabre 4896 - HSMworks with Solidworks
Home: RF45 with Ajax CNC Controller - Fusion 360
Thinking of it like that then, perhaps I make the plexiglass on the ends hinged with a seal around their perimeter. The 22" opening would be for a 2' square piece of glass, 1" overhang all around.
The front door opening will be 36" wide.
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The few key dimensions I worked around was to make sure the opening was slightly lower then my table. And that the width of the door would allow me to run a piece out the sides, as deep as my table at the min/max y travel extents.
One door design I considered, was a vertical slide in window. But in the end I went with weld on hinges, that I could lift off the frame. I still need to add a latch system.
Work: Hurco VMX42/VMX50 - Shopsabre 4896 - HSMworks with Solidworks
Home: RF45 with Ajax CNC Controller - Fusion 360
Base tray pieces now bent, and some welding and tacking had begun since this picture.
Pan welding done, although I think I'll be making a 1" stainless angle frame for the perimeter that the vertical pieces will sit and bolt on. The vertical tubes are for the mill bolts to pass through but keep any coolant from leaking out-- the base of the stand straddles over them (fingers crossed, I didn't 100% confirm total clearance) In the rear there's 2 drains that I'll run down to a new coolant tank I'll have to build.
I also may try to make a die set that stamps the sheet metal at the drains lowering them as far as possible since the flange sits up.
1" angle frame attached (and welded after the photo was taken) and bottom pan set in place. There were casting ribs in the underside of the mill base I didn't know about but luckily my tubing height and diameter cleared everything. A test fit of the upright panels shows I'll have to do some trimming of the bent lips as things came out wider than I wanted.
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No new progress with the enclosure yet--been tied up with other projects such as rebuilding/reinstalling a motor in my wife's Subaru. Because of my automotive background, I've been curious about other means of power drawbars, ones being of the hydraulic nature. I could try to fit the normal 3 stacked air cylinders above the drawbar ala Tormach style but with my motor's current rotation its capacitor is in the way for clearance and the motor is large in diameter itself. Thinking of of how a clutch system works, I thought why couldn't there be either a hand or foot operated master cylinder that had a line run to a compact slave cylinder on top of the mill to compress the drawbar washers the same as an air cylinder setup would. What I need to figure out is what pressure and force those systems can make and will it be enough to overcome the belleville washers. Anyone ever read of someone doing that on here?
Hydraulic intensifiers are an option but I'm not sure if the advantages are really worth the additional cost.
I've seen them, just not sure the overall cost of that style of system. If a standalone hydraulic system, I'm thinking maybe it could be a $250-300 total cost or even less.
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Only a little progress on the enclosure-- hoping to wrap things up on a day off next week. Below is a pic of its current state.
I also made the stamping / dimple die for the drains out of some 4.5" round 6061. Worked great on the 18 gauge stainless.
I certainly would not have thought an aluminum die would punch through SS. It worked great though. looks good. Should be plenty big. I did the same to my original Torus. It initially had issues with just a small 1/2" drain. A sink drain like yours fixed it.
Lee
I did pre drill the holes-- might be able to see that in a previously posted pic. There's two drains all together, one on each side.
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Progress made on the enclosure today. Drains were permanently installed, guides for windows made and all panels were bolted together with sealer gasket. I purchased a harbor freight spot welder to attach the window guides and am actually pretty happy with a tool purchase from there for once. Still need to tie the front panels together across the top and figure out what I want to do with the doors.
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looking good.
and I also like your POS DSM license plate.