Reply with QuoteHere are a few pictures of the progress. Still optimistically thinking I am a week away from cutting. Probably for first test cuts. Longer than that for final machine.
Worthless update without pics. They will follow later today.
I have installed the center support on this table. It is adjustable. It is also the heaviest gage part I used. It's a 2" x 3" steel angle. About 1/4" thick.
It is supported on each end with Unistrut hung off the end 2" x 3" angles. Pretty solid.
I also installed homes on X, Y and A. I did install my channel for the echain as well, but both of those need adjusting. I needed more room to clear the gantry uprights on the top piece.
For the X, I had the echain attaching up at the top of the gantry, but will need to lower it down to the base of the gantry upright. Minor moves really.
Both interfered at the far end of travel one way or another. Unless you have a used plane, I would suggest setting these up with use of double stick tape until you are sure that you have good clearance everywhere.
You can think it through in your mind, but in reality, it works a little differently.
Anyway, I did get the motors cranked up. Yah! I need a lot more bracing.
The initial plan was to lock the wheels in chocks and cut like that. That will no be good enough.
The gantry will fly and it's not exactly light weight. Anyway, stay tuned. Better stuff coming.
Lee
Here are a few pictures of the progress. Still optimistically thinking I am a week away from cutting. Probably for first test cuts. Longer than that for final machine.
Lee
Re: Little Plasma Cutter
Pictures are great, they make all the stuff you been talking about make sense. I used threaded casters on my table to level the table since my shop floor is not level. The casters have 2 way locks on them, when locked it prevents the swivel from turning and also locks the wheel. When locked it is very solid.Originally Posted by LeeWay
I haven't installed e track on my table yet, butt I've been thinking about it to clean up the installation. You had the same exact idea I did about using stud track as the guide for the e track.
I found the build to be easier than getting to the point of making usable parts. But, I struggled in the beginning with a POS CHINESE PLASMA. After I bought the hypertherm, things went much smoother. It's almost exactly a year since I started my build, but I'm finally at the point of making good stuff.
Now I'm doing the fun stuff.
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MMMMM......fun stuff. Can't wait.
The Echain is pretty nice. I didn't even have to open these up to get the wires through. Even with DB9 ends on them.
I won't be routing the plasma torch or the die grinder power cord in them though.
They will be supported off one corner with a fishing rod and it will just flex as the machine travels. That is the plan, but they can still change.
I didn't use stud channel on this. These are just some aluminum channel drops that I picked up pretty cheap. Both are 3". The one on the gantry is 1/8" thick and 1/4" for the X. Nice and solid with only two supports on the ends.
If you do run echain, certainly use double stick tape initially. It will get you placed with having to redo it.
I initially had the X echain up top by the Y home switch. It would get in the way of the X motor in the last foot of travel. They are both perfect now though after tweaking.
More to come and thanks for the comments.
Last edited by LeeWay; 02-25-2013 at 08:54 PM.
Lee
Got a few more pictures to share this evening. Most are of the control cart.
Couple are of the Table I/O from CandCNC. It all seems to be hooked up well and going according to plan.
I still have to install a little 12 VDC supply inside the control box for the fan, but I may just use a wall wart instead. Gotta look at what I have on hand.
Next up will be the Z axis and the table grid. Then I'll be having some fun hopefully.
Lee
I thought I may have been a little too optimistic.
I did get my Z axis completed as I wanted. Just needs buttoning up really. Initially I will have to use the die grinder manually. Probably have to use two separate Gcode files. The grinder and plasma torch sit side by side, but are independent of each other. Each with it's own linear way. Both mounted in aluminum channel. That channel is mounted to the 80/20. The plasma side will always just float at the bottom of axis. When the grinder comes down, it is lower than the plasma tip, so using offsets, I should be able to get that to work fairly well.
I have seen now that several guys have trouble when starting out with an airscribe and plasma, so I will get over the plasma hump first, then sort out how an airscribe will function correctly in the same Gcode.
I may need to get a spring loaded engraver bit for the grinder, but just starting out, the plan is to engrave with the same tool I use for these parts on the mill.
It is just a drill mill. I haven't planned on spring loading either head. Just let gravity do it's thing. The grinder head will lock in the up position with a pin or catch of some sort when just using plasma.
My Z axis is also heavier than I anticipated. This is where I may need to rethink the direct drive R&P I have on it now. When powered off, it immediately hits the table. That is undesirable and probably unacceptable. I will look into options for that. It is much easier to remedy that on a mill than a moving gantry machine, so may need to get creative or just use a ball screw system.
I am trying to figure out my switching system for the Z as well.
I know I want a home at the top and a switch for the floating plasma head.
Been going through Tom's manuals and just haven't seen the wiring convention of this yet.
I think it is in there somewhere though. I seem to recall I glossed over it quickly before.
I'll take some progress pictures later today.
Still haven't installed my table splats, but doubt that will take long.
Lee
Here are a couple pics I promised.
Didn't get as far along as I wanted of course.
Other work got in the way. Dangit!
The scissor jack is one of four I bought from HF.
They were about $16 each. Should work fine. Just have to build a mating bracket. Probably just a washer type plate that will hold in the jack top to the Unistrut angle. I can loosen and slide them up when I need to roll it.
Lee
I was doing a bit of tuning yesterday on the axes and making sure everything worked as planned. Then I hit a snag. This isn't a snag I was unaware of though. I suspected it would be the case from the start. Direct driving the rack on Z just isn't going to work correctly. It likes to skip steps. The Z probably weighs about 30 to 35 pounds. Quite heavy for a plasma cutter. Could have made it lighter with an air scribe rather than the die grinder, but......
Never the less it would take some engineering to overcome the skipped steps and the falling down of the Z when powered down.
Could be done with springs. Gas or mechanical, but it would not be very compact.
I was using parts that I had here without trying to buy too much new stuff for the Z.
I choose to just get an axis off Ebay that will readily accept the Nema 23 and be done with it.
It will solve both the skipped steps and the dropping issue. I bought one with 12" travel, which is probably overkill, but the extra won't hurt anything. It's a ball screw setup with 20 mm rods and bearings. Should do fine.
I'll post some more when it gets here.
12" Z Axis Linear Motion Table for CNC Router with Ballscrew | eBay
Last edited by LeeWay; 03-11-2013 at 07:30 AM.
Lee
Wow. Just posted something here and it didn't show up?
Where does that magic autosave thing save these posts to? Sure could have used it now.
Anyway, the new Z axis arrived. It is very nice.
Nearly a direct bolt on to the CNC router parts plate.
I had to enlarge two holes and then drill two more. Fits great. I'll have more pictures and progress later.
Lee
I was able to make my first cuts today. Still needs some fine tuning, but getting there. The cutter, THC and mach 3 are all doing their job. Really feels good to get it going.
Question. I have my Y home switch that sometimes pulls off far enough for the led to go out and sometime not. Where do I tell Mach to pull off a tad further? I can't believe that I don't know this.
Lee
Did a bit more testing and setting up today. I am using a die Grinder now instead of an air scribe. Assuming that the sheet is always flat, the die grinder would work very well with just a carbide mill drill. That is not always the case though. Especially if you have a little slag left on the supports. I have everything I need for an air scribe except the scribe itself. I have the solenoid and the cylinder, lines and fittings. Extra parts when I was try to do an PDB on the mill. That worked, but eventually wasn't strong enough to hold reliably. Everything had to be spotless and that is a daunting task itself.
Anyway, anyone know where to get just a scribe and diamond bits for it?
AS for my other question about backing off a switch when homing, I think that is somewhere in the macros. That will involve more research.
Had fair results cutting a few parts out today.
I am using the drag tip on the torch though. I'll pick up the right tips tomorrow. There were spots that did not do a through cut down an edge. I saw the THC trying to get right, but don't think the drag tip would allow it to. Still, most of the parts during practice are usable, so that is something.
More with videos at a later date.
Hints on where to get a scribe would be certainly appreciated.
Thanks, Guys.
Lee
I think I have found a solution and will be able to use the grinder. Put a stop on the depth. Let it inscribe about .008" or so and be done with it.
That will eliminate carving too deep.
Still would like some info regarding the plate maker tool itself.
Lee
Oh and for work holding when I am working with small sheets, a couple of tack welds work wonders.
Now on the search for a 1/4" shank diamond tipped bit. The carbide is holding up now, but my experience tells me it will snap or dull fairly quickly at the point. Ideas, links, info?
Lee
Still sorting out a few issues with this, but getting there. More later.
Here is a short clip showing how the floating head torch works with the switch offset.
Lee
Wood laying uder plasma table...??? Looking to burn something besides metal HEHEHEHE?? Good looking build
I was able to make my first cuts today. Still needs some fine tuning, but getting there. The cutter, THC and mach 3 are all doing their job. Really feels good to get it going.
Question. I have my Y home switch that sometimes pulls off far enough for the led to go out and sometime not. Where do I tell Mach to pull off a tad further? I can't believe that I don't know this.
I have no doubt it would burn wood.I will be relocating that pile soon. Before any real cutting goes on.
Just been dialing it in recently.
Lee
I was getting incredibly frustrated with this machine.
As soon as I would get ready to test a few settings, the torch would not fire.
I cannot say exactly how many times I read the manuals for the CandCNC products as well as the PM45 cutter. That information was not lost though and was useful to read through it a few times.
I just kept getting intermittent torch fires.
I bought the torch over a year ago and it sat in storage in a closet unused. Should have tried it out sooner.
Apparently the machine needs a technical tap in order to get to work.
There is something loose in the knob that controls the air and amps.
After setting the air, I switch to the amps I want, it will do one of three things.
It makes no change to the air coming out of the torch.
This causes a no fire situation.
It reduces the amount of air coming out of the torch.
This also causes a no fire.
Lastly it stops air flow out of the torch either by just turning the knob or by tapping on the knob with my finger.
The torch will fire then.
Really weird problem that I will get repaired at some point soon. Have no clue what the cost might be.
I just thought you guys should know for posterity. Sometimes it isn't the THC, but the plasma cutter itself.
Lee
I just read thru the whole thread. I didn't see a mention of which plasma cutter you are using. I had so many problems with the Chinese longevity plasma cutter that I got rid of it and bought a hypertherm pm85. After fixing all the damage to the electronics from the longevity machine, and installing the hypertherm, the hypertherm works perfectly all the time. So which plasma cutter are you using?
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Sorry. Thought I mentioned it. It is Hypertherm PM45. The knob worked a little more consistent today once I got it to initially do right. Just wiggle a bit from side to side a few times.
Definitely a faulty knob or innards behind it.
Guess I'll try to cut a months worth of production stuff and see if I can get it fixed.
Thanks for the input, Xalky.
Lee
Try to get in touch with Jim colt in the hypertherm forum or call hypertherm direct. They can probably get you the part quickly.
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