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Thread: Reversed Logic voltage to PICSTEP- What component to be replaced?

  1. #49
    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    Today i will test the HEX file. Please confirm have you included all the Configuration bits...
    The config bits are set as per your ASM source file and you should see them set in your HEX file as I explained earlier.

    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    Looking at schematic of PICstep i found that their is no capacitor between MCLR pin and GND. Also when both the Jumpers removed i.e. (1/8 microstep) How the MCLR is pull down???
    The MCLR is pulled up if it is NOT used, but your program sets it as an input it is looking for status of J2

    Quote Originally Posted by Joe S. View Post
    Another thought the 16F628 is not the same as the 16F628A so be sure your compiler is set to the correct one. I am going to back in this thread to find the source code and see what it is telling the chip to do, if I can find it . . .
    According to the source file the PIC is set to 628a version and the compiler is reflecting that in the HEX listing.

    Al.

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    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    Looking at schematic of PICstep i found that their is no capacitor between MCLR pin and GND. Also when both the Jumpers removed i.e. (1/8 microstep) How the MCLR is pull down???
    When I read the source file earlier I assumed the step rate was just software set, but I see by the schematic it was also referring the inputs for the external jumpers hardware setting. They have pull-up resistors when the jumpers are open.
    What do you have them set for BTW?
    Al.

    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

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    Member Khalid's Avatar
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    Hi Al,
    I have checked with all the 4-combination of Jumpers J1 and J2. Nothing worked for me.. Currently i am fabricating the Phil 4-axes BOB to test the PICStep.
    I have seen too many Hex files given by the Alan for programming the Chip. The names of the Hex are confusing can you decode for me please (Although i have almost loaded /erased/loaded all of the Hex files one by one without any fruitful results)

    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


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    Quote Originally Posted by Al_The_Man View Post
    What do you have them set for BTW?
    Al.
    Are you talking about Jumpers?.. I have checked for all four combinations (1/2 step , 1/4step , 1/8 step and 1/16 steps)..nothing work. Both jumpers removed= 1/8 step

    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


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    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    I have seen too many Hex files given by the Alan for programming the Chip. The names of the Hex are confusing can you decode for me please (Although i have almost loaded /erased/loaded all of the Hex files one by one without any fruitful results)
    Do you want the source file assembled in the link post #14?
    https://github.com/alangarf/picstep
    Al.

    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.


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    Member Khalid's Avatar
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    Al, I think ALAN has posted the source file for V3 in the above link. Can you please compile and send me the HEX file.
    Regards

    PS:
    I will check your posted TEST HEX file as soon my BOB is ready (probably tonight the BOB will be finished).

    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


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    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
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    Here is the HEX file from the source file in the link.
    (re-name from txt to hex)
    If you load MPLAB and build using the wizard, you just need the ASM and 16F628A.INC file, but select re-locatable assemble not absolute code when asked.
    Al.

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    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.


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    Default Driver Chip Test

    Khalid,

    This is likely to be the first of many posts. I am going to try to diagnose the issues little by little, so I will need you to try certain circuit configurations with the parts you have, and maybe others.

    Disclaimer: Please understand that I am neither responsible nor liable for any actions or harm caused...

    The first thing you need to do is get rid of the 33pf capacitors for the crystal. Those will NOT work with the PIC you are trying to use. With a 20MHz Crystal (classified as HS), you MUST use 15-30pF capacitors. I recommend a capacitor in the middle of that range, such as 20pf.

    Lets start with the most basic electronic components and move up to the most difficult.

    The second thing I think you should do is mess with the driver section of the circuit. It is worrying that you can't get the motor to engage at all...
    So here is what I want you to do: Remove the PIC from the IC socket. Using quite a few jumper wires, construct the attached schematic by putting wires into the corresponding slots in the PIC IC slots. For instance, you should connect a +5v wire to pins 4,6,7,8 of the PIC IC socket, where the IC used to be, etc. Do all of that except for the direction pin. Now, with all the wires connected as I have laid them out in the schematic, spin the motor. It should still move freely. Now attach the direction pin marked as a red switch in the schematic, (RB6, pin 12 on the IC socket) to the +5V source. The motor should now lock or resist you turning it.

    Remember to disconnect resistor R9 in the original schematic.

    If that test is successful, that means that the problem is likely with the PIC or a wire mishap.
    If the test was unsuccessful, your driver chips may be blown, bad stepper, bad driver wiring, or I may have read the datasheet wrong.

    Also, please attach a picture (or two please) of the underside of the board.


    Other Questions:
    1. Do you have spare LEDs and 100 - 200 ohm resistors?
    2. Have you completed the LED Flasher project you talked about in post #29? It would be good if you did.
    3. You do have an ohm meter, correct?
    4. What is the amperage ratings on your +5V and +24V supplies?


    Well it is very late now... I will post again tomorrow after you have tried the above.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Reversed Logic voltage to PICSTEP- What component to be replaced?-lmd18245-circuit-png  


  9. #57
    Member Khalid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by amishx64 View Post
    Khalid,

    This is likely to be the first of many posts. I am going to try to diagnose the issues little by little, so I will need you to try certain circuit configurations with the parts you have, and maybe others.

    Disclaimer: Please understand that I am neither responsible nor liable for any actions or harm caused...

    The first thing you need to do is get rid of the 33pf capacitors for the crystal. Those will NOT work with the PIC you are trying to use. With a 20MHz Crystal (classified as HS), you MUST use 15-30pF capacitors. I recommend a capacitor in the middle of that range, such as 20pf.

    Lets start with the most basic electronic components and move up to the most difficult.

    The second thing I think you should do is mess with the driver section of the circuit. It is worrying that you can't get the motor to engage at all...
    So here is what I want you to do: Remove the PIC from the IC socket. Using quite a few jumper wires, construct the attached schematic by putting wires into the corresponding slots in the PIC IC slots. For instance, you should connect a +5v wire to pins 4,6,7,8 of the PIC IC socket, where the IC used to be, etc. Do all of that except for the direction pin. Now, with all the wires connected as I have laid them out in the schematic, spin the motor. It should still move freely. Now attach the direction pin marked as a red switch in the schematic, (RB6, pin 12 on the IC socket) to the +5V source. The motor should now lock or resist you turning it.

    Remember to disconnect resistor R9 in the original schematic.

    If that test is successful, that means that the problem is likely with the PIC or a wire mishap.
    If the test was unsuccessful, your driver chips may be blown, bad stepper, bad driver wiring, or I may have read the datasheet wrong.

    Also, please attach a picture (or two please) of the underside of the board.


    Other Questions:
    1. Do you have spare LEDs and 100 - 200 ohm resistors?
    2. Have you completed the LED Flasher project you talked about in post #29? It would be good if you did.
    3. You do have an ohm meter, correct?
    4. What is the amperage ratings on your +5V and +24V supplies?


    Well it is very late now... I will post again tomorrow after you have tried the above.
    Thank you for the detailed reply and procedure. I have some comments:
    1- I have used 33PF then 27PF and now using 12PF with no good response.
    2- Currently 15PF are installed across the 20MHz xtal.

    I have some questions for you regarding the circuit:

    1- Are you talking placing jumpers in PIC IC socket or the LMD??? As your attached schematic shows LMD Pin Out..
    2- Is it possible if you can mark on the attached picture where i installed jumper and what Resistor i remove..

    Point wise Answers for your Questions:
    1- yes I have LEDS and 100, 220ohm resistors.
    2-No i didn't ..
    3- yes I have Multimeter that includes Ohmmeter...
    4- +5V supply is ATX power supply and it has more than 6 Amp. where as +24V supply has 3 Amp.. I am using 1.2 Amp motor.(single Motor)


    PS:
    Frankly speaking i am fed up with this PICSTEP.. I have assembled the three boards and no-one work

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Reversed Logic voltage to PICSTEP- What component to be replaced?-picstep_v4_0_overlay-jpg  
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


  10. #58
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    Default PIC Socket Connections

    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    Thank you for the detailed reply and procedure. I have some comments:
    1- I have used 33PF then 27PF and now using 12PF with no good response.
    2- Currently 15PF are installed across the 20MHz xtal.
    Yes, 15pf is good. Continue using those. Don't waste your time with the others.
    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    I have some questions for you regarding the circuit:

    1- Are you talking placing jumpers in PIC IC socket or the LMD??? As your attached schematic shows LMD Pin Out..
    2- Is it possible if you can mark on the attached picture where i installed jumper and what Resistor i remove..
    1. Answers:
    2. Jumpers go into the PIC IC socket where the PIC used to be. Since you have 'supposedly' correctly connected the PIC IC socket to the LMD driver, this will be a good test of those existing connectioons. You will not put jumpers into every pin of the PIC IC socket.
    3. Sure. Give me two pictures then: A close up of the IC socket with the surrounding components visible (~20mm away from the edges) and one near the LMD drivers. I will Photoshop the connections in for you.


    Also, please attach a picture of the underside of the board as I asked in the last post when you can.



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Reversed Logic voltage to PICSTEP- What component to be replaced?

Reversed Logic voltage to PICSTEP- What component to be replaced?

Reversed Logic voltage to PICSTEP- What component to be replaced?