A lithophane without a roughing toolpath on 1/4" corian!?! - Page 2


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Thread: A lithophane without a roughing toolpath on 1/4" corian!?!

  1. #21
    Registered P.Passuello's Avatar
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    Default Brilliant

    Great idea about the scrubbing brush and Lacquer. I can't believe the difference. In the past I have washed the finished image with soap and water to clean and then applied a smear vegetable oil to give it a glossy look and blend any perspex that had gone white but your idea sounds much better.
    Your use of center is brilliant. I always spend ages trying to line it up when it was so simple all the time.
    I will give these a go next time.

    Cheers
    Peter



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    Default Software for cutting litho????

    What is the best program for cutting litho's. I am new to the CNC world and would like to start cutting lithos. I have done some photoengraving with image carve, but am unsure if it will work for lithos.

    Thanks,



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    PhotoVCave from www.Vectric.com , they even have a FREE trial version. They have tutorial which makes it easy to try.
    Bill



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    Default

    Bill,
    Where do you get your bits? You mention Black and Decker, do you have an online supplier?



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    Another way to get a even frame is to mill a rectangle around the main image, leaving .125" stock (or whatever frame width is desired) between the image and the groove.

    I mill my grooves .150" deep in .250" stock.

    I then use a bandsaw to rough the piece out of the larger stock, cutting down the center of the groove. Then I use a disk sander to smooth the rough edge.



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    Default

    bsimages, did you wash and laquer the eagle picture, or is it finished in some other way?



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    I scrubbed it with a stiff nylon bristle brush and dish soap. I then gave it a clear coat of lacquer. I have since discovered that if I set the depth to 0.15" in PhotoVCarve and then when I cut it out, I set the Z zero at -0.05". I get more of a 3D effect in the Lithophane. This gives 50% more depth than the original method of setting the depth at 0.1" and the Z zero at -0.1". Not only is there more depth but also the for potential more shades of gray.
    Bill



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    I had an interesting thing happen. I have been using a 40 degree included angle engraving tool with a 0.010" flat on the end. I get better detail than my 0.032" ball, but a lot of remelt. The customer asked my to decrease the total machining range to lighten up the lithopane, so I cut it from .100" to .050".

    No more remelt, and the finish was much better.



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    Default Free bits

    I just carved my 1st lithopane and nailed it on the 1st pass. I'm using bits that my dentist gave me. Tons of different profiles. My dentist throws them out after every patient no matter how long he used it. He must have given me over 2000 in the last 2 years. Just ask your dentist to save them for you.
    They are 1/16 dia.



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    Quote Originally Posted by skipper_52 View Post
    I just carved my 1st lithopane and nailed it on the 1st pass. I'm using bits that my dentist gave me. Tons of different profiles. My dentist throws them out after every patient no matter how long he used it. He must have given me over 2000 in the last 2 years. Just ask your dentist to save them for you.
    They are 1/16 dia.
    I had previously asked my dentist about this. His answer was that they are carbide bits. If he runs them through the sterilizer, it erodes the edges of the bits and makes them too dull to use.

    Tom



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    Default One pass V-bit

    I just cut this pair for a gentleman from Johannesburg in South Africa.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails A lithophane without a roughing toolpath on 1/4" corian!?!-front-lite-jpg   A lithophane without a roughing toolpath on 1/4" corian!?!-back-lite-jpg  


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A lithophane without a roughing toolpath on 1/4" corian!?!

A lithophane without a roughing toolpath on 1/4" corian!?!

A lithophane without a roughing toolpath on 1/4" corian!?!