Reply with Quotehe is from latvia, it is setup for 220, is taht the reason for the two triacs? we have 110 here so maybe thats why we would only need one
I was curious on making the opto coupler with shrink wrap for wire and the right components. Not cost effective but a good learning experience
he is from latvia, it is setup for 220, is taht the reason for the two triacs? we have 110 here so maybe thats why we would only need one
ok i have to order a couple peices, or go to my local electro used parts store, I am curious on how he gets the 12 volts, is it 12 volts ac or what. I know the bridge rectifier is converting it so i assume a/c i am learning as i go here and looking at the peices needed. I think i am going to just go ebay and spend about 30 bucks. I can get about 50 of each item IE the traic ect for that much so that way mayebi can build a few extra circuit for my lathe speed and mill. I will wait to order anything till i hear from ya mike on the fact he uses 220 and what we need on that end for 110
thanks
tim
thanks orkki
that fills in a few gaps very nicely
timmy
I still don't see where you get the second triac - which one is it in the circuit?
cheers
Mike
i see now dont know how i got stuck on 2 triacs, thinking its the terminology are u still thinking of using his diagram or one u come up with yourself? i have about 70% of the peices i need scrounging up the rest this week
I was going to load his libraries and get his code to compile. I did not load his libraries yet
I got the circuit into EAGLE and laid out the PCB
it's single sided
there is a "hole" in the Arduino box as we don't actually want an Arduino on the shield!
I did place it to align the headers, then removed it
there's also a PDF of the PCB in case you don't have EAGLE
caveat emptor:
a) it's free and worth every penny you paid for it
b) it's untested
c) shamelesssly copied from the work of others
enjoy!
PS if anyone finds any of the intentional errors - so let me know!
cheers
Mike
zip files
PS
I'm looking at the LCD boards next
I think there is a mistake in the boards on github
the A and K pins are flipped
be very careful out there!
Okay guys nice work so far..
First thanks God I know arduino and i can work. I also know about little electronics...
Now my plan,
1- Make a standalone Controller board with ATMEGA 328P-PU chip installed
2- Using 3-wire LCD and 5-keys keypad (DIY)
3- The parameters can be changed with Menu driven interface
Further i am living in a part of world where we have 220VAC so needs help..How can we use BT139 with 220VAC?
http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/
hello Khalid
i'm 220 volts also
bt139 is rated 800 volts
should be enough??
adding the parts for a stand-alone shouldn't be too hard
I look forward to seeing your circuit!
i am 110 so i will figure that out, standalone should be easy i agree also.
Mike i am curious if i can just buy an octocoupler with a triac built in, Again i am not an expert but learning the best i can. Thanks for all the help. I am currently planning on copying the thread starters circuit for now so i can learn how it works then perhaps change. My end plan is to remove the chip from the arduino also. I have done that before so should not be an issue for me.
Since your both 220 i am curious if either know what i would have to change for 110. From my reading it doesnt look like anything really.
Tim
like a MOC 30043 with triac
edit i see the MOC3043 doesnt have enough amperage
lower mains voltage isn't a problem as suchOriginally Posted by timmyb199
just that you will need higher current for the same power
so just check the current rating of the triac
BT139 is rated 2 amps = 200 watts at 110 volts
BTA08 is rated 8 amps = 800 watts at 110 volts
what sort of spindle are you looking to drive?
My "spindle" is a Rigid router. I cant imagine it pulling more that 8 amps. The websites posted earlier today are really helping me understand what the circuit is doing. Only thing i dont understand is the 12 volt side. I know why its thre but unsure where he is getting the 12 volts.
take a look at the link posted by orkki on the previous page
Using Hardware Interrupts to Control A.C. Power with Arduino
there needs to be a 12 volt transformer in there
I've updated the circuitry:
a) to include the LCD
b) to add a DIAC
any interest?
sure that be great, i kinda knew how to add the lcd. but id be happy to look at another schematic. I apologize i did not see a 12 volt transformer in the circuitry. my mistake
thanks
tim
P.S i downloaded eagle so i dunno if u have a file i can look at in that either
EAGLE files on the previous page
I'll upload the LCD circuits in the morning
it's sleepy o'clock now
gnite
Mike
Instead of the opto couplers and triac could we use a SSR?
Like this is for 110. It's 5 bucks. But might simplify circuit
http://www.sharpsma.com/webfm_send/313
I also found this which uses the arduino for the cross checking
AC Dimmer Circuit
here's the zip of the EAGLE files with LCD added
rather than including the LCD itself on the shield I have shown a 16-pin header
do check the A and K connections, the original (from OP github) had them the wrong way round
I've also attached the files without the LCD
