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    Default Build Options?

    Wanting to build my first CNC cutting machine. I've been doing my internet research over a couple of days now, and I still can't seem to narrow down a design to go with.

    I currently have a 3D printer I built (ordbot hadron), a couple of manual lathes with some small scale milling capabilities, TIG welder, chop saw, band saw, drill press, and hand tools at my disposal.

    I'm interested mostly in cutting aluminum, and also some copper, which can be tough to cut as it's quite gummy, so I need a rigid machine. I'll also be doing some circuit board milling, so I need something quite accurate. The work area doesn't need to be large, though I imagine I could find a use for a bigger machine with some unforeseen project. I think I might be better off doing a smaller more rigid machine with a fixed spindle, more like a traditional mill, and then building a separate gantry style machine later for larger objects if needed?

    Or maybe I should just build a large and strong gantry machine and have it all in one? I'm not sure if the benefits of the smaller Y on Y style vertical mill would be worth it's own machine. Are they considerably more accurate? Take much larger cuts? Or maybe best would be the hybrid of the two, the sliding table fixed gantry type?

    Some examples of different machine plans available along with some personal experience would be very helpful for me. I'm also curious about the plans available at 8020cnc website. Can't seem to find any reviews or info on that build, is it worth the $25?

    My budget is roughly 1000-2000. Willing to spend more to get more, to an extent, but won't if I don't need to.



    Thanks fellas.

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    Default Re: Build Options?

    It sounds like you need two different machines: a mill for the aluminum copper and PCB work, and a gantry router for other things. With your limited budget, you're not going to be able to build both of them simultaneously, and making either out of 80/20 extrusions will exhaust your funds before the build is done. If you can weld, consider building as much as possible out of steel, which is relatively cheap, and using aluminum solid stock for the moving parts that need to be light.

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    Default Re: Build Options?

    There's no need to build two machines simultaneously. I don't want to get too hung up on budget, it's rough. More is doable if I need it to get what I want.

    The aluminum and copper cutting takes precedent. Sounds like an X on Y vertical machine might be what I want, though I have seen many people cutting aluminum and such with their gantry machines, I suppose it's not ideal.

    While I may be able to weld, I'm not at the point where I'm going to be designing my own machine. The only plans for a weldable machine from steel I have seen are for the X-carve, which doesn't look like it would be sturdy enough for my purposes, but maybe I'm wrong about that.

    I find it hard to believe that I could not put together a CNC mill or small router for $2000? I can go buy a small Chinese manual mill for under $1000, and likely CNC it for less than another $1000? There must be cost savings associated with building an open source aluminum extrusion machine compared to this. Like I said, I can go higher if needed, maybe to use a proper spindle or something instead of a router, but from what I"ve been reading, many CNC machines can be built sub $2000, so I'm not sure I understand where you're coming from there.



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    Default Re: Build Options?

    I've been doing my internet research over a couple of days now
    I'd normally recommend spending a couple of months doing research.

    The main questions, are how fast do you want to cut the material, and how good of a finish do you want? $2000 gets you slow, and average at best finish quality.

    The answer to just about everyone questions, depend on your expectations. There's a huge difference between a $2000 machine, and a $7000 machine.

    Gerry

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    Default Re: Build Options?

    I've been doing serious research over a couple of days, been looking into it for quite a while now.

    Let's start with some examples of open source plans available, or even plans that can be bought, such as the 8020cnc plans for $25.

    Comparing examples will be best, rather than abstract and theoretical "$2000" and "$7000" machines.

    I've been looking at the openbuilds OX, though being a gantry router, able to cut aluminum, maybe something more rigid would be better. It seems to only come in around $1000, depending on options. The C beam sphinx looks to be similar. I know there must be some designs I haven't come across, maybe something more applicable to my needs. That's what I need help with. I should not have mentioned budget, because it has side tracked this topic. Please ignore it and discuss examples of machines that may be suitable, I will worry about the budget.

    The nice thing about the OX, and possibly other designs, is that I can 3D print the plates to get it up and running, and then lightly cut some aluminum plates to replace the plastic.

    If there's something out there similar to the OX and sphinx, but maybe a different design that has a smaller build area but inherently more rigid, like a typical X on Y vertical mill, or a sliding table design with a fixed gantry, then I would really like to discuss and learn about those options.

    Thanks for your time guys. Let's redirect this conversation away from budget.



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    Default Re: Build Options?

    This same thread gets started here basically every month or two.
    I can tell you that most of the members here will tell you that what you are looking at is not the right machine for what you want to do. And most will tell you that you can't build a decent machine for $2000-$3000.
    The fact is that YOU are the only one that knows if a machine will be a good fit for you, and you won't know until you start using it.

    You can find a lot of people that have started with an OX, and found that it wasn't rigid enough to cut wood at the speeds they'd like. It's a lightweight "hobby" machine.

    maybe something more rigid would be better.
    If you want more rigidity, move away from V roller bearings, and belt drives.

    Here's a small router that someone is building for aluminum cutting. He's replacing a small chinese machine. The chinese machine in his first post might be a good option for you.

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...28752-cnc.html

    Gerry

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    Default Re: Build Options?

    Quote Originally Posted by VanIsleDSM View Post
    I'm interested mostly in cutting aluminum, and also some copper
    Quote Originally Posted by VanIsleDSM View Post
    My budget is roughly 1000-2000.
    This isn't possible.

    You also haven't mentioned the sizes of the parts you want to make, forgive me if I missed it.

    Buy a used mill. If you can find one for free, then the 1000 to 2000 could be used for motors, drivers, ballscrews, but even then, it would be very tight on that budget. The low Canadian dollar doesn't help your cause (or mine, fellow Canadian here). How is Vancouver Island these days?



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    Default Re: Build Options?

    I will usually be working on smaller parts, that's why I was suggesting an X on Y type of configuration. I'm also speaking USD, not CAD. Vancouver Island is nice, a little smokey this morning from the wild fires, but has been a great summer. How's your neck of woods?

    While it may not be possible to do it to your standards, it's definitely possible. This device, for instance, even though it runs on V-wheels, looks to be able to cut aluminum plates just fine:

    C-Beamâ„¢ Machine - Plate Maker | OpenBuilds

    I suppose I'll have to go this alone. I appreciate the experience you guys are bringing to the table here, but I don't really understand the interest in shooting me down rather than trying to point to some machine examples such as the one I just found and posted. Something like that unit, but maybe with some linear rails instead of V-wheels for some added rigidity. Possibly a proper spindle instead of a router. Maybe that'd get me to $3000, I dunno, but that'd still be fine. I really wish I never mentioned the budget. Can't seem to get this back on track...

    Try this once more I guess. Is anyone aware of some plans or a build I can copy for a small machine that uses linear rails and has a propensity towards rigidity?



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    Default Re: Build Options?

    Quote Originally Posted by VanIsleDSM View Post
    I will usually be working on smaller parts, that's why I was suggesting an X on Y type of configuration. I'm also speaking USD, not CAD. Vancouver Island is nice, a little smokey this morning from the wild fires, but has been a great summer. How's your neck of woods?
    Not looking forward to another Ontario winter.

    Quote Originally Posted by VanIsleDSM View Post
    While it may not be possible to do it to your standards, it's definitely possible. This device, for instance, even though it runs on V-wheels, looks to be able to cut aluminum plates just fine:

    C-Beamâ„¢ Machine - Plate Maker | OpenBuilds
    My first build was v groove bearing, and I cut aluminum with it. It can be done, but the material removal rate will be low. And you will find it very frustrating! I believe that V groove bearings are an excellent choice for a plasma machine, and also are effective at cutting wood. Aluminum, this machine is not a good choice for that. Copper, forget about it.

    Quote Originally Posted by VanIsleDSM View Post
    I suppose I'll have to go this alone. I appreciate the experience you guys are bringing to the table here, but I don't really understand the interest in shooting me down rather than trying to point to some machine examples such as the one I just found and posted. Something like that unit, but maybe with some linear rails instead of V-wheels for some added rigidity. Possibly a proper spindle instead of a router. Maybe that'd get me to $3000, I dunno, but that'd still be fine. I really wish I never mentioned the budget. Can't seem to get this back on track...
    I'm not trying to shoot you down. I'm telling you to find a used mill. Like a bridgeport, often found for less than two grand, and do a conversion, or a medium sized mill, or even a mini mill would be vastly superior to the machine posted in your link. And by vastly, truely, there is no comparison if you want a machine to cut aluminum and some copper.
    Quote Originally Posted by VanIsleDSM View Post
    Try this once more I guess. Is anyone aware of some plans or a build I can copy for a small machine that uses linear rails and has a propensity towards rigidity?
    As ger pointed out, there is this one, which looks great and is superior to the link you posted. But, I am guessing it will be less expensive, both time and money, to find yourself a mill.

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...52-cnc-10.html

    This one has done everything right IMO. Not my build, I just like it. The link to the build thread on usinages is somewhere in the youtube comments on his videos. Compare that to the video of the one you posted a link to cutting aluminum. But here you're looking at several times the budget of what you were talking about and a considerable time investment also. Plus you'd need skill and equipment in welding, and perhaps access to a shop to machine your surfaces flat, etc. Like a year or two of all your spare time.



    Also linux_fan made an awesome aluminum cutting machine.
    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/uncate...aluminium.html

    You can see that things that cut aluminum well are in a different ball park.

    My advise, go on youtube and start looking at videos of mill conversions cutting aluminum. A mini mill with a more powerful motor upgrade and cnc conversion would be a 1000 times better choice than the link you posted to, or any small thing like that. And mills often come up cheap on kijiji. Plus, by the time you factor in all the components, might cost around the same.



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    Default Re: Build Options?

    but I don't really understand the interest in shooting me down rather than trying to point to some machine examples such as the one I just found and posted.
    Because we don't believe that those machines are suitable for what you want to do.

    This device, for instance, even though it runs on V-wheels, looks to be able to cut aluminum plates just fine:
    My machine probably cuts aluminum much better than that machine, and my machine is terrible at cutting aluminum.

    As I've said twice now, the machine has to meet your expectations. We've told you that they won't meet our expectations.

    Your best option might be to build that machine, and get some experience. Then you'll know what you really need.

    Gerry

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    Default Re: Build Options?

    I think my expectations may be over-estimated by those of you with experience who wouldn't put up with a machine like the C beam cutting aluminum. I would not expect to be removing aluminum at anywhere near the rate of that video of the high speed aluminum machining. A 1mm cut depth would be find with me. I think I may just end up building the C-beam plate maker machine. I was hoping to find something like that, but a little more rigid, using the linear rail bearings instead of V-wheels and probably use a proper spindle instead of a router.

    This video looks entirely acceptable to me:



    If I decide I need more capability I can then use the plate maker to machine some parts for a newer machine, which I can build with linear rails and use a welded steel frame. I really wish there was something already planned out more along what I'm after, because I don't think I should be trying to start from scratch on my first build trying to design my own, but I suppose I can work up to it eventually.

    Is there a better alternative to the plate maker? I'm under the impression that the moving table design it has is more rigid than a moving gantry such as the OX.

    There's also the option that I purchase this:

    Milling machine West Shore: Langford,Colwood,Metchosin,Highlands, Victoria

    I'm really not sure I want to deal with old equipment though, as well as the issue of whether I can even CNC that machine or not. I suppose you just remove the screws and replace with ball screws, add motors, mounts and electronics? I've never looked into converting a mill. Seems you could end up down a rabbit hole on that one. Does this machine look like a good candidate for conversion?



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    Default Re: Build Options?

    A 1mm cut depth would be fine with me
    You won't be cutting 1mm per pass with any of these machines. If you look at the comments in that video, his depth of cut is .015", or .38mm, with a 1/8" tool. With a larger tool, you'd likely need to take even shallower cuts.

    Gerry

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    Default Re: Build Options?

    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    You won't be cutting 1mm per pass with any of these machines.
    That's very true. 0.01" or less with a 1/2" very sharp carbide bit might get you some OK results. BUT, try to do a 3d carving using a ballnose bit, that's been previously rough cut and that's another can of worms.

    Quote Originally Posted by VanIsleDSM View Post

    There's also the option that I purchase this:

    Milling machine West Shore: Langford,Colwood,Metchosin,Highlands, Victoria

    I'm really not sure I want to deal with old equipment though, as well as the issue of whether I can even CNC that machine or not. I suppose you just remove the screws and replace with ball screws, add motors, mounts and electronics? I've never looked into converting a mill. Seems you could end up down a rabbit hole on that one. Does this machine look like a good candidate for conversion?
    Doing a conversion on that is 1000 times a better choice. I'm glad you're considering what I've said. As far as the conversion goes, it depends on how handy you are, what you design and build skill set is. Certainly a heck of alot easier than building an appropriate machine from scratch.

    The lead screws on that probably have alot of backlash. If so, you will be able to feel it when you turn the handles and then reverse the direction. You don't need ballscrews on a CNC machine necessarily. There may be a way to add an antibacklash nut made of nylon or something of that nature to the already existing leadscrews. The more difficult part will probably be the Z axis. Looks like you can adjust the vertical position of the head and use the quil (rotary handle) for the conversion. So find out how much movement you can get from just the quill.

    If you are apprehensive about the conversion, you could consider two alternative options. The first is to find a mill that has already been converted for sale. The second is to find a popular used mill that has a conversion kit readily available, and there are many of these. As for that model, I don't know, but you could do some searches with the model number to see if anyone has done a CNC conversion on one. Who knows, you might find a build log with a set of step by step instructions on how to do it. And there are many such build logs for different mills around.

    A quick search led me to this:

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...342-cnc-3.html

    That looks pretty similar to the one you linked to.

    Working with older good equipment for you, sir, is a better choice. Just repaint it when you're done if you want it to look awesome.

    I wish someone had slapped me in the face and told me to do this when I was starting out. At this stage I'm building a custom machine to get the travels I need for the parts I want to make and have it mobile enough to move into the basement in sections. Do you have a garage? The machine will be heavy, you'll need some help to move it and preferably a garage to put it in if you buy it.

    Really, I would make any immediate decisions. Spend some time reading build logs and looking at videos and asking questions on here like you're doing, and the end results will be worth it. But at the end of the day, if you want to be happy cutting aluminum on a limited budget and time investment, your only good option is a mill conversion.



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    Default Re: Build Options?

    I have an indoor shop. Not really any room left but I'll have to make some, I suppose I could relegate my current drill press to the back room. My shop is up a flight of stairs, but I did already wrestle a Clausing 12x36 lathe into there with some help, so I'm sure the mill would be manageable. I'm not too worried about my skills approaching the matter, just not familiar with the topology of the machine and if it's "CNC-able" without a huge amount of fabrication and modification. I am familiar with smaller scale CAM from building a 3D printer. Electronics is my main game, so I'm really looking forward to doing the motors, drivers, and sensors.

    The conversion you found and posted does appear to be a different rendition of the same tool. Seems to be common with what I suspect to be a Chinese machine, rebranded by different importers and changed slightly. I also have a 7x14 Chinese mini lathe. It's actually really nice for working on smaller parts and I use it instead of the Clausing a lot of the time. I wouldn't be adverse to trying another Chinese machine. Thanks for finding this. It gives me confidence to get this machine, knowing it can be done.

    The only thing I'm a bit worried about are the gibs on a machine like that. How often are you having to adjust them with a CNC mill? Probably a lot more often than a manual. I'd think the linear rail bearing would be much better in this regard than some old ways and gibs, but I dunno, maybe I'm wrong.

    Nice thing going this route, is that I can manually mill the parts I need for the conversion. I currently have a milling attachment for my Clausing, but there's not a lot of travel.

    Either way, I'm gonna go check out the machine. I suppose I should just treat it like buying my old Clausing? Poke around with the dial indicator and make a few cuts with it? Anything specific to check for a mill as compared to a lathe? I suppose I could google these things.. just kinda rambling on here now.



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    Default Re: Build Options?

    Quote Originally Posted by VanIsleDSM View Post
    The only thing I'm a bit worried about are the gibs on a machine like that. How often are you having to adjust them with a CNC mill? Probably a lot more often than a manual. I'd think the linear rail bearing would be much better in this regard than some old ways and gibs, but I dunno, maybe I'm wrong.
    Good quality linear rails (square type) are better but also really expensive. Compared to V groove bearings or round type rails, personally I'd much rather prefer the gibs. I doubt you have to adjust them too often. Lots of people have done CNC conversions on mills and kept the gibs, seems to work fine for them.

    Quote Originally Posted by VanIsleDSM View Post
    Nice thing going this route, is that I can manually mill the parts I need for the conversion. I currently have a milling attachment for my Clausing, but there's not a lot of travel.

    Either way, I'm gonna go check out the machine. I suppose I should just treat it like buying my old Clausing? Poke around with the dial indicator and make a few cuts with it? Anything specific to check for a mill as compared to a lathe? I suppose I could google these things.. just kinda rambling on here now.
    There will be no comparison between the ability to cut aluminum and copper between a rigid mill running at 220V (even 110V) and the machine you were first considering. At the end of the day a mill is a vastly better choice. I have heard that the Z axis can be the most tricky. In the build log i posted a link to, I think he used a pneumatic cylinder to take out any slop in the quill.

    A dial indicator and a few cuts seems like a good place to start.

    Beyond that, hopefully one of the members here, and there are lots of them, who have experience with different mills can advise you on what to look for and what kind of mills make good conversions.

    If you can figure a way to use the existing lead screws by adding an anti backlash nut, then really all you have to do is add some motors and pulleys. Have you looked to see if there is a kit available for this, I honestly don't know if there is one.

    The other option would be a mini mill with an upgraded spindle motor, from a treadmill or something like that. I've seen a few videos of them cutting aluminum like a boss.



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    Default Re: Build Options?

    Depth of cut will be better for sure, but it looks like the spindle maxes out at 2500 RPM. Seems that would create a bottleneck in cutting speed. Maybe I could eventually replace the motor with a VFD or something, to get more RPM? Will the spindle bearing have an RPM limit? Maybe we're getting into new thread territory about this specific mill now.

    This video was helpful for me to see everything I would to do to CNC the machine.



    I would like to use ballscrews, the Chinese ones are such a good deal, why wouldn't you? The only thing I'm not terribly confident about is dealing with the bearings on the ends of the ball screw to eliminate any backlash. I really don't know how best to go about that. I found a thread talking about a system with angular thrust bearings, but the pictures were broken, so it's hard to tell what's going.on.

    Making some motor mounts and an adapter to mount the ball nuts seems pretty straight forward. Hopefully I can just get some ball screws custom machined from ebay, heard others talking about that. Maybe copy someone else's spec for the ball screws and their bearing design, because I'm out of my element on that.

    Seems the quill isn't the best Z axis, but it can be made to work. With 5" of travel, people were complaining about switching from drills to end mills, having to raise the head and re-center. Does seem like a bit of a pain in the ass, but do you really bother with drills once you have CNC? Just let the end mill make a hole whatever size you want, no? I usually use mechanic drills anyway, a little shorter, and more rigid.

    Last edited by VanIsleDSM; 09-09-2017 at 07:50 PM.


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    Default Re: Build Options?

    Quote Originally Posted by VanIsleDSM View Post
    Depth of cut will be better for sure, but it looks like the spindle maxes out at 2500 RPM.


    Yes, you'll want more speed. I've been trying for the past half an hour to find a video on youtube, where the guy replaced his spindle motor on a small mill with one that had more power, we're talking perhaps 2HP range, and he was cutting very fast using a three flute bit. One of my favorite videos. I can't find it. Perhaps it got removed. It's several years old.

    Quote Originally Posted by VanIsleDSM View Post
    Seems that would create a bottleneck in cutting speed. Maybe I could eventually replace the motor with a VFD or something, to get more RPM? Will the spindle bearing have an RPM limit? Maybe we're getting into new thread territory about this specific mill now.
    I couldn't advise you on the bearing limit for that mill. That's why you need at least a build log to follow from someone who has done a conversion previously on that type of mill. There are different types of induction motors. Some are designed to be run at variable speeds. Some are designed differently. You'd need to figure this out before adding a VFD to an existing motor. I know many people upgrade to larger motors on small mills. I'm thinking they are getting around 6000 to 7000 RPM after upgrade. BUT, you have to check for the specific mill, I'm just talking generally.

    Yes, perhaps it is time for a new thread. You could call it "Help me choose which mill to buy for a CNC conversion". Lots of people here can give better advice than me. Some, people on here even sell the conversion kits.

    Quote Originally Posted by VanIsleDSM View Post

    I would like to use ballscrews, the Chinese ones are such a good deal, why wouldn't you? The only thing I'm not terribly confident about is dealing with the bearings on the ends of the ball screw to eliminate any backlash. I really don't know how best to go about that. I found a thread talking about a system with angular thrust bearings, but the pictures were broken, so it's hard to tell what's going.on.
    So, be cautious of who you buy the ballscrews from. I've seen some bad reviews from some popular EBay suppliers. I am currently buying my ballscrews from BST Automation on Aliexpress, with custom end machining. You just have to contact Fred from BST and ask him for a quote. A little more expensive than some EBay guys, but I have yet to hear a bad review. If you follow my thread on Ballscrews, I will let people know what they are like after they arrive. I expect they will be very nice.

    Because the leadscrews you'd be replacing aren't very long, you can probably get away with 16mm diameter ballscrews for most small mills, which aren't very expensive. Perhaps 20mm diameter max.

    Why wouldn't you? You mentioned a budget of $2000. That could cover a used mill and electronics perhaps if you were very budget conscious. I'm just saying that there may be some cheap options to remove the backlash from what already exists. That requires less time and money, and you'd still have a machine way better than what was first suggested.

    The costs can creep up on you fast when you retrofit everything.

    But if you want ballscrews and have a budget for it, that's better. And some people also replace the gibbs with linear rails. Also more $$ and time.

    Quote Originally Posted by VanIsleDSM View Post
    Making some motor mounts and an adapter to mount the ball nuts seems pretty straight forward. Hopefully I can just get some ball screws custom machined from ebay, heard others talking about that. Maybe copy someone else's spec for the ball screws and their bearing design, because I'm out of my element on that.
    The easy way is to buy a kit for a popular conversion. But, I would avoid kits that don't use bearings, I was reading a thread about a CNC fusion kit that used an oldham coupler, but no support bearings. I wouldn't do that one.

    If you can find a design that uses standard end supports, like BK12 or BK15 and BF12 or BF15, then you can buy those. I bought my end supports on alibaba. "BUN" brand. They are very nice.

    The other option to consider is to continually be checking classifieds kijiji, local EBay, etc, for a mill that has already been converted. Sometimes great deals pop up in the sub $4000 range, when you consider the Canadian dollar, that's not far off your first budget. Just be ready to move some heavy steel and have a place to put it.

    If you're not sure what to do, the easiest is to follow in someone else's foot steps, either via a build log, or a conversion kit. Take your time with it. No rush decisions. That's about all the advice I have.



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    Default Re: Build Options?

    Well, step one complete, I bought the mill. I'll be picking it up in a few days, after I somehow manage to make some room in the shop. It was too good of a deal to resist, at $1200 CAD, with a ton of tooling. Bunch of mills, face cutters, saw, spare carbide inserts, clamps, blocks, a vice.. I couldn't resist.

    I've seen many CNC conversions of this mill now, searching around online, so I know it can be done. I may try 3D printing some of the conversion parts from carbon fiber impregnated polycarbonate. It's nearly as stiff as 6061 T6, and should work well for most parts. I might also try printing the toothed pulleys out of nylon as well, instead of buying aluminum ones, to keep costs down. Thanks for the advice NIC, I suppose it's new thread time. Conversion of RF-30 and equivalent type mills, specifically figuring out the bearing situation for the ball screws. I need to get a grasp on how that all works and goes together. Thanks for the tip on BST Automation. I will likely use them.



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    Default Re: Build Options?

    Quote Originally Posted by VanIsleDSM View Post
    Well, step one complete, I bought the mill. I'll be picking it up in a few days, after I somehow manage to make some room in the shop. It was too good of a deal to resist, at $1200 CAD, with a ton of tooling. Bunch of mills, face cutters, saw, spare carbide inserts, clamps, blocks, a vice.. I couldn't resist.

    I've seen many CNC conversions of this mill now, searching around online, so I know it can be done.
    That's always good, not to be the pioneer on your first build. At least now you have some examples to follow.

    Quote Originally Posted by VanIsleDSM View Post
    I may try 3D printing some of the conversion parts from carbon fiber impregnated polycarbonate. It's nearly as stiff as 6061 T6, and should work well for most parts. I might also try printing the toothed pulleys out of nylon as well, instead of buying aluminum ones, to keep costs down.
    That's interesting. I don't have a 3D printer, but if you an print carbon fiber impregnated polycarbonate and nylon, I'd certain like to see how you do that. Not necessarily for CNC parts, but for some other projects I want to do. So please include that in your build log, if you are going to do a build log, which of course you don't have to, but it might help with the build.

    Quote Originally Posted by VanIsleDSM View Post
    Thanks for the advice NIC, I suppose it's new thread time. Conversion of RF-30 and equivalent type mills, specifically figuring out the bearing situation for the ball screws. I need to get a grasp on how that all works and goes together. Thanks for the tip on BST Automation. I will likely use them.
    My pleasure, I really hope it works out well for you. Yes, time for a new thread for you. Build logs typically generate more interest and responses, and I know that there are people here who have done conversions like this who will be more help to you than I can be. Perhaps I should follow my own advice.

    I'll post what my experiences are with the ball screws here when they arrive:

    http://linear-and-rotary-motion/3430...-needed-2.html



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