Electronic home switches made easy!

[QUOTE=Mr.Chips;2463788]I had some A 3144 HE sensors and I connected one up on a breadboard and it works according to the LED.
Now I want try it on the C25S BOB PORT 1 PIN 10.
I have marked up the drawing showing where I think it needs to be connected, but I’m not sure, is it correct or do I need to make a different connection?
.[/QUOTE]

They should work as shown, in fact if the input is a typical opto input you do not need the resistor as it is internal to the opto.input.
Those in the last two posts seem a little overkill.

[QUOTE=Al_The_Man;2463836]They should work as shown, in fact if the input is a typical opto input you do not need the resistor as it is internal to the opto.input.
Those in the last two posts seem a little overkill.[/QUOTE]

Thanks AL, I’ll give it a try.
Hager

[QUOTE=Mr.Chips;2463832]Better photo of connection details[/QUOTE]

These are not the normal Proximity switches you would buy for a machine, they are very primitive at best not sure why these zone posters are leading you up the garden path

Here is an eBay number 142392448188 there are hundreds just like this, the choice is yours

[QUOTE=mactec54;2463890] they are very primitive at best not sure why these zone posters are leading you up the garden path

[/QUOTE]

What zone posters would they be???
I don't see anyone recommending the ones in #1219 & #1220 ??

[QUOTE=Al_The_Man;2463892]What zone posters would they be???
I don't see anyone recommending the ones in #1219 & #1220 ??[/QUOTE]

Well there have been plenty of posts none of which gave him any help with what he should be using, just information on what he was trying to use which is so primitive and totally not suitable to be used for what he is wanting to do

[QUOTE=mactec54;2463904]Well there have been plenty of posts none of which gave him any help with what he should be using, just information on what he was trying to use which is so primitive and totally not suitable to be used for what he is wanting to do[/QUOTE]

The device MrChips describes in post #1217 is virtually identical to Romans original post of 11 years ago with almost half a million views!! :confused:
You appear to be against any DIY approach which would virtually negate the 1200+ posts where member's here, who are mainly DIY'ers would prefer to devise solutions in the course of building their machines, for maybe nothing more than the academic experience.
Yes, there are many commercial solutions out there and if you are a MTB who intends to equip a machine shop, then the expedient way would be to buy a ready made machine.
Many of those that come to a forum like this, are home shop DIY'ers and might take pleasure in the fact that they build a machine from the ground up as a learning procedure, rather than buy an off-the-shelf M/C.

Incidentally the subject of this whole thread is based around a magnet sensitive sensor, the one you quote on ebay is an inductive variety! .:tired:

[QUOTE=Al_The_Man;2463936]The device MrChips describes in post #1217 is virtually identical to Romans original post of 11 years ago with almost half a million views!! :confused:
You appear to be against any DIY approach which would virtually negate the 1200+ posts where member's here, who are mainly DIY'ers would prefer to devise solutions in the course of building their machines, for maybe nothing more than the academic experience.
Yes, there are many commercial solutions out there and if you are a MTB who intends to equip a machine shop, then the expedient way would be to buy a ready made machine.
Many of those that come to a forum like this, are home shop DIY'ers and might take pleasure in the fact that they build a machine from the ground up as a learning procedure, rather than buy an off-the-shelf M/C.

Incidentally the subject of this whole thread is based around a magnet sensitive sensor, the one you quote on ebay is an inductive variety! .:tired:[/QUOTE]

Remember Mr Chips his machine is10 years old he just started 2 weeks ago to add limits and Home switches He started with a regular Micro Switch which would be way better than this exercise :)

Yes totally against using a switch like this even at a DIY level, 11 years ago I to built some of these magnetic switches and made a better job than the OP did, so know what guys should be using today

Yes It is an inductive unit, that is what they should be using, unless you have something that is better, a lot has changed in 11 years this is a very primitive approach, and is not suitable for someone even Hobby guys to use today, they want something that is going to be reliable, these used for a Hobby router are not

[QUOTE=mactec54;2463938]
Yes It is an inductive unit, that is what they should be using, unless you have something that is better, a lot has changed in 11 years this is a very primitive approach, [/QUOTE]

The three common types of hall proximity sensors have been around for many decades, I can attest to that, I have used them since their inception.

[QUOTE=mactec54;2463938] they want something that is going to be reliable, these used for a Hobby router are not[/QUOTE]

You are entitled to your opinion.

[QUOTE=Al_The_Man;2463964]The three common types of hall proximity sensors have been around for many decades, I can attest to that, I have used them since their inception.



You are entitled to your opinion.[/QUOTE]

Your right AL, I built my CNC from scratch with the help of many members just like you. My shortcoming is electronics. And I’ve got the DIY Hall Effect figured out and working thanks to you all. I ran my CNC for about twelve years without limits and homes or auto zero but in order to get Gerrys 2010 Screen set working I have to have them all. While I was figuring out the Hall Effects and wondering if it’s going to work I finished installing mechanical switches on my X and Y axis three switches each, had to order a couple more for the Y slave home and the Z home, I robbed thoes two when I added the third switch to the Y and X axis.in reading about the real value of the Hall Effect switches I will switch over to them after the 2010 screen set is running. I’m not abandoning you guys just pausing for a while. It was easier for me to do the mechanical switches just to get Gerrys SW running.
My two switches I’m short will be in Monday. So at that time I’ll be ready to get all of them adjusted and ready for the next step in the getting the 2010 screenset working. I’m gonna need help then, because the instructions assume a lot that just isn’t natural for me.
Thank you all in seeing me be successful with Hall effects.
Hager

Thanks Chips
...chicken or the egg of history
[URL="https://www.newscientist.com/question/came-first-chicken-egg/"]https://www.newscientist.com/question/came-first-chicken-egg/[/URL]

[QUOTE=Al_The_Man;2463964]The three common types of hall proximity sensors have been around for many decades, I can attest to that, I have used them since their inception.

You are entitled to your opinion.[/QUOTE]

Yes some of us know what is best for the hobby user, and some just pretend to know :)

[U]Please tell us the last time you used a magnetic activated proximity switch, and on what machine, and why it was used[/U] :)

They all have there place, the use of a magnetic activated switches are normally only used for machine safety lockout panels, pneumatics also use them on the cylinder for stroke control and of course they are used everywhere in the home security mostly magnetic activated reed switch's

11 years ago this was a great project to make your own, as proximity switches of any type where to expensive to buy for the hobby user, but today with them being so cheap anyone can use them, buy them in a sealed unit which are reliable easy to install, and can be used in any conditions

[QUOTE=Mr.Chips;2463972]Your right AL, I built my CNC from scratch with the help of many members just like you. My shortcoming is electronics. And I’ve got the DIY Hall Effect figured out and working thanks to you all.
Hager[/QUOTE]

Good luck with your endeavors.:)

[QUOTE=machinehop5;2463990]Thanks Chips
...chicken or the egg of history
[URL="https://www.newscientist.com/question/came-first-chicken-egg/"]https://www.newscientist.com/question/came-first-chicken-egg/[/URL][/QUOTE]

LOL,
In this situation it’s a functioning Chicken where the farmer (me) and the chicken (all the switches and switches and related wiring). Know what their job is to run the machine as it is now.
The the coming egg, when hatched will have all the Hall effect switches connected up and the 2010 software figured out and all the functions working. That’s the one I’m waiting for.
Meanwhile that egg is being formed and growing. So I have to keep it warm so it will hatch and be the new high tech chicken on this ranch.
I’ll be ending this thread and posting the next round of questions to keep this egg warm.
Thank you all
Hager

[QUOTE=Mr.Chips;2464018]LOL,
In this situation it’s a functioning Chicken where the farmer (me) and the chicken (all the switches and switches and related wiring). Know what their job is to run the machine as it is now.
The the coming egg, when hatched will have all the Hall effect switches connected up and the 2010 software figured out and all the functions working. That’s the one I’m waiting for.
Meanwhile that egg is being formed and growing. So I have to keep it warm so it will hatch and be the new high tech chicken on this ranch.
I’ll be ending this thread and posting the next round of questions to keep this egg warm.
Thank you all
Hager[/QUOTE]

I would not worry to much about the coming egg as it may not be what you would expect it to be

Here is a PDF for you, it may help the egg to hatch

[QUOTE=Mr.Chips;2464018]LOL,
I’ll be ending this thread and posting the next round of questions to keep this egg warm.
Thank you all
Hager[/QUOTE]

The nice thing about the SS400 series that is the subject of this whole thread, they are still current hall effect oscillator devices as is the H3144 you are working with.
Also the other nice feature is the fact they can be customized in their final style of case or enclosure etc.
The SS400 comes in bipolar, unipolar, and latch versions.
I always have kept a few versions on hand, and have found a few custom application for their usage.

[QUOTE=Mr.Chips;2464018] I’ll be ending this thread and posting the next round of questions to keep this egg warm.
Thank you all
Hager[/QUOTE]

I don't think you will be able to end this thread as you did not start it, :)

Yes you should have started your own Thread

I would have loved to hear Roman's Take on the situation, Unfortunately he is no longer in a position to be able to comment!:tired:
His web site lives on, however. :cheers: