Hello.
This time I will be posting some pictures of the actual hardware used by this program and some pictures of the program as it works.
The full software package consists in the following:
1. TOYNC: this is the actual control program. It runs under FreeDos.
2. NCDATA: this file contains the basic parameters for the machine to run. Some are to be modified according to the actual machine where the system is to be installed.
3. COMPILER: this program takes a list of instructions written in the TOYNC language and generates a new file that is to be fed to the control program.
What I do in my machines is to have one USB stick loaded with a bootable version of FreeDos and upload there the control system. The RUFUS formatter is the perfect choice to prepare the USB stick.
Note: since NC listings can get very large it is convenient to have one USB stick accordingly.
Now please let me explain the pictures.
1 & 2. STP2ANA1 FRONT & BACK : these pictures show one of the control interfaces better known as breakout cards. This one uses one ULN2803 receiving signals from the main 8 bits of the LPT port and then signals the DIR- & STEP- lines of up to four SERVO or STEPPER drivers. The 5 input pins of the LPT port are used to receive signals like the REMOTE ON/OFF switch and the 3 microswitches at the HOME position of the machine.
The 4 remaining pins are used for output and taken by the wired DAC to produce an analog voltage from 0 to +10V in 16 possible discrete steps.
3. STP2: This picture shows a card identical to the previous one except the wired DAC is not included. As an example, this would be the choice for hot wire cutting machines.
4. TOYNC: This picture shows the actual screen of the control program.
5. XLSNAIL: This picture shows the screen of a program that includes a graphic representation of the pattern being processed. This particular program is only intended for demo purposes as BASIC takes to much time to execute when in graph mode.
As an old a technology as it may seem it is still used in many new machines like those in the hobby quilting market. The last two files contain the listings for the SNAIL picture depicted in XLSNAIL. SNAILTXT is the original file as used by one quilter brand. SNAILOEM.TXT is the converted file to the language used by TOYNC.
A basic bill of materials is next. HEADERS & SOCKETS are used for the connections. Resistors are 1/4W or 1/2W 5%.
1. 1 piece of perforated copper clad protoboard. Check how the circuit is assembled so that you will know how to cut it. I suggest assembing first and then cut. The excess area helps for better heat dissipation specially when tinning.
2. 2 pieces of 3 circuits.
3 1 piece of 4 circuits.
4. 1 piece of 5 circuits.
5. 1 piece of 7 circuits.
6. 1 piece of 9 circuits.
7. 1 piece of 10 circuits.
8. 50 pieces of female connectors.
9. 1 piece 8 pin DIP IC socket.
10. 1 piece 8 pin DIP IC socket (optional for DAC).
11. 3 pieces 0.1 uf/16V or higher voltage ceramic, monolitic or tantalum.
12. 1 piece 470 uF/16V electrolytic capacitor.
13. 5 pieces of 3900 ohm resistors.
14. 2 pieces of 5600 ohm resistors.
15. 1 piece of 4700 ohm resistor.
16. 1 piece of 10,000 ohm resistor.
17. 1 piece of 22,000 ohm resistor.
18. 1 piece of 47,000 ohm resistor.
Miscelaneous materials:
19. Rosin core tin-lead solder wire or equivalent. 65/35 alloy is preferable but 60/40 will do nicely,
20. Tinned AWG22/24 stripped copper wire for the connections.
Tools:
21. Cleaning flux. Apply this to the back of the protoboard to clean it. It should look pink when properly cleaned.
22. Ink eraser. Vinyl is preferable. Use in case of stubborn rust stains in the clad of the protoboard. Reapply flux thereafter.
23. Thin tip solder iron. Station type is preferable but most hobby pencils will do. Avoid soldering guns as they are too hot and too wide so that the copper may get loose from the protoboard.
24. Soldering sponge to keep the tip of the iron clean. This is most important during the tinning of the protoboard. Remember to keep the sponge wet.
Please take a good look at the pictures. You can wait for the diagram if you want but as you can see it is fairly simple. Other than the conecting cables there is no other electronic card or componen needed by this system. I believe that the beaty of it. Its simplicity.
Bye for now.