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  1. #161
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    Default Re: Torus Pro log

    Quote Originally Posted by FineLineAuto View Post
    I don't apply anything and there has been no corrosion in between. The plate is 4140 steel. It sits on 1.5" tall riser blocks, also 4140, so it's not in direct contact with the table. I was originally worried about corrosion as well and took the plate off every 2 months for the first 10 months to check. There wasn't anything after month 10, so I have bothered to take it off since then. I do take the aluminum subplates off every day though and make sure the fixture plate is dry before leaving.

    Tosa's plug kit is just ok for me. If I were to do it again I wouldn't bother. It's faster for me to take a blowgun to clear the holes I need. The dowel plugs are too tight of a fit for my liking. The have a 1/4-20 thread in the middle of them and to remove I have to basically screw in a SHCS and use a hammer claw to put leverage on the head. They prevent swarf from entering the hole, , but the plastic center hole gets clogged and you have to blow it out anyway. The screws plates are nice and easy to operate, but a pain if you don't know which ones you need to remove until you set the fixture down. Engraving the fixtures with the grid positions would solve that problem though. If you are going to do it, get the screws but not the dowels.




    Nate
    Fine Line Automation
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    Something a season machinist taught me, to prevent corriosion of your table and anything bolted to it is to spray down a cost of WD-40 before placing your tooling on the table.

    So for me when I am going to bolt a vise or tooling plate down this is my process.
    1. Clean the table and tooling with a clean rag and solvent.
    2. Using a very fine stone, go over the area of the table I will be clamping to and the bottom of my tooling
    3. Another wipe clean with a solvent rag
    4. Spray the table where the tooling will go with WD40
    5. Place the tooling on the table and bolt down.

    -Dan



  2. #162
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    Default Re: Torus Pro log

    I like to use petroleum jelly. I used WD40 on my small mill. It has an aluminum table and I was bolting a cast iron magnetic chuck to it. It did see quit a bit of corrosion.
    Hardly anything with the PJ. I haven't taken my vise back off my Pulsar yet since I first installed it, but it has a nice coat of PJ under both vises.

    Lee


  3. #163

    Default Re: Torus Pro log

    Both are solid suggestions. I might have to take the plate off when things calm down and slather some petroleum jelly underneath. I would think WD40 would work for awhile, but wouldn't be idel for long term mounting.

    Thanks for the suggestions!


    Nate
    Fine Line Automation
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  4. #164
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    Default Re: Torus Pro log

    Quote Originally Posted by FineLineAuto View Post
    I don't apply anything and there has been no corrosion in between. The plate is 4140 steel. It sits on 1.5" tall riser blocks, also 4140, so it's not in direct contact with the table. I was originally worried about corrosion as well and took the plate off every 2 months for the first 10 months to check. There wasn't anything after month 10, so I have bothered to take it off since then. I do take the aluminum subplates off every day though and make sure the fixture plate is dry before leaving.

    Tosa's plug kit is just ok for me. If I were to do it again I wouldn't bother. It's faster for me to take a blowgun to clear the holes I need. The dowel plugs are too tight of a fit for my liking. The have a 1/4-20 thread in the middle of them and to remove I have to basically screw in a SHCS and use a hammer claw to put leverage on the head. They prevent swarf from entering the hole, , but the plastic center hole gets clogged and you have to blow it out anyway. The screws plates are nice and easy to operate, but a pain if you don't know which ones you need to remove until you set the fixture down. Engraving the fixtures with the grid positions would solve that problem though. If you are going to do it, get the screws but not the dowels.
    Thanks for the reply. I hadn't realized that your plate was mounted to risers on top of the table - that must help keep corrosion down. I've read lots of advice for anti-corrosion coatings and am trying to get the benefit of real world mid- to long-term experience.

    I was hoping that the set screw and plug kit would work better. I did notice that they sell a little slide hammer for yanking out the internally threaded dowel pins so maybe that would work better than the hammer claw. The set sounds moderately useful but in need of a feature upgrade.

    Mike



  5. #165
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    Default Re: Torus Pro log

    Quote Originally Posted by LeeWay View Post
    I like to use petroleum jelly. I used WD40 on my small mill. It has an aluminum table and I was bolting a cast iron magnetic chuck to it. It did see quit a bit of corrosion.
    Hardly anything with the PJ. I haven't taken my vise back off my Pulsar yet since I first installed it, but it has a nice coat of PJ under both vises.
    I've been using way oil on the bottom of my vise and that seems to work pretty well. That seems a little thin for something with the area of the fixture plate and I've read of folks using grease, but that seems too thick to me and liable to make a mess, especially with flood coolant. For some reason Dan's idea of using WD40 doesn't sit well with me for a fixture plate, though it sounds better for use on short-term fixtures that may only be in place for hours or a few days.

    Mike



  6. #166

    Default Re: Torus Pro log

    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelHenry View Post
    Thanks for the reply. I hadn't realized that your plate was mounted to risers on top of the table - that must help keep corrosion down. I've read lots of advice for anti-corrosion coatings and am trying to get the benefit of real world mid- to long-term experience.

    I was hoping that the set screw and plug kit would work better. I did notice that they sell a little slide hammer for yanking out the internally threaded dowel pins so maybe that would work better than the hammer claw. The set sounds moderately useful but in need of a feature upgrade.

    Mike
    Well, the riser blocks were strictly to raise the plate up to a level where my smallest tools would reach. The anti-corrosion benefits were ancillary.

    I will shoot a video showing the problems with the plugs. Even with the slide hammer the main problems with the plugs (too tight a fit and the internal threads get clogged with chips) don't go away. I am not sure what you could do to eliminate the second problem.



    Nate
    Fine Line Automation
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    Fine Line Automation
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  7. #167
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    Default Re: Torus Pro log

    Quote Originally Posted by FineLineAuto View Post
    I will shoot a video showing the problems with the plugs. Even with the slide hammer the main problems with the plugs (too tight a fit and the internal threads get clogged with chips) don't go away. I am not sure what you could do to eliminate the second problem.
    Thanks - I'd like to see that.

    Mike



  8. #168

    Default Re: Torus Pro log

    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelHenry View Post
    Thanks - I'd like to see that.

    Mike
    Here you go:




    Nate
    Fine Line Automation
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    Fine Line Automation
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  9. #169
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    Default Re: Torus Pro log

    Thanks Nate - the riser blocks must make it easy to clean chips and coolant out of the holes. The plate I ordered before Christmas should be here in a week or two but it will most likely be mounted directly to my mill's table so I'll have to figure some other way to clear the holes since they wont flush out as well as they do on your setup.

    Mike



  10. #170

    Default Re: Torus Pro log

    Quick note: make sure when you install your PDB to loctite the screw holding the impact socket on the shaft. I had mine work completely out yesterday. Also, had to loctite all of the screws and nuts holding the PDB electronics on.


    Nate
    Fine Line Automation
    Home - Fine Line Automation

    Fine Line Automation
    www.finelineautomation.com


  11. #171
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    Default Re: Torus Pro log

    Quote Originally Posted by FineLineAuto View Post
    Quick note: make sure when you install your PDB to loctite the screw holding the impact socket on the shaft. I had mine work completely out yesterday. Also, had to loctite all of the screws and nuts holding the PDB electronics on.


    Nate
    Fine Line Automation
    Home - Fine Line Automation
    Nate,

    If you re-Loctited the screw holding the socket in, I hope you did not tighten it. That screw must NOT be cranked down tight, just snugged up. Otherwise, you stand a good chance of damaging the gearbox.

    Odd that you had the PCB screws come loose. That has never happened to me.

    Regards,
    Ray L.



  12. #172

    Default Re: Torus Pro log

    I just snugged it down. It's been working good although I need to replace the drawbar shortly. The top 1/16" was rounded off because the screw prevented the head from going all the way down.


    Nate
    Fine Line Automation
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    Fine Line Automation
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