Very nice look neck. Please cut it and show the results.
I would like to build a Tenor Guitar. I might get you to design the neck.
mredican,
First of all getting the scroll to blend to the face of the mandolin body is not possible because of the bad self intersecting surfaces you have in the model. Secondly despite those bad sufaces the "g code" I provided to you in an earlier post DID cut the mandolin very nicely. (you just never looked at it I think) The neck looks nice BTW.
Easy there...
What I said was I could not get your code to run in Kcam. I also posted the out-put screen so you could see what the program was doing. If you would have continued on you would have also noted that I am now using Rhino 4.0 with Rhino CAM and that it is working well.
Kcam is software that runs G code on your CNC. Rhino Cam is software used to write the G code. 2 completely different things. All you had to do is change your KCam settings and the G code I provided you (standard FANUC G code) would have worked fine. The topic here is, "Looking for Mandolin g code or dxf." I provided you with the G code you needed, you proclaimed it no good, and you turned around and bought RhinoCam! This whole thread is a fishing expedition I think.
Wow! Cool down dude. I did not PROCLAIM that your code was no good. I also don't recall you letting me know that I had to change my settings in Kcam. Look, thank you very much for what you did. Sorry I touched a nerve by buying RhinoCam.
This thread was started by me. I think I can take it in what ever direction I would like--with in the rules of the forum. So, if you can't play with out getting upset I suggest you find another place to play.
No problem. Great drama. So do you have any pics of the wood parts you're cutting?
I disagree. Here is some pics of a modeled 1923 f5 I finished a while back.First of all getting the scroll to blend to the face of the mandolin body is not possible because of the bad self intersecting surfaces you have in the model. Secondly despite those bad sufaces the "g code" I provided to you in an earlier post DID cut the mandolin very nicely. (you just never looked at it I think ) The neck looks nice BTW
rmoss,
Disagree with what? I was refering to the geometry in the "Mandolin Total.zip" file in post #27 in this thread.
My Bad. I thought you meant it wasn't possible at all. I didn't realize you were referring to a specific model.
No problem rmoss. Of course I know it's possible, I design and cut "Carve Top" electric guitar bodies. For kicks try downloading that file and see if you can fix it.By the way really nice model you posted. :rainfro:
Here is the f5 top I made with rhino. I have yet to run live on my cnc. I just got some machinable wax and I'm going to use that first--just to make sure.
matt
Matt,
F5 top looks good.
Mike,
With the carve top electric bodies do you have the arch going all the way to the edge? I'm not sure if the above top has too much level space from the end of the arch to the edge of the top.
What do think?
I may need to take you up on that offer. I have a Porter C. laminate router on my cnc. I am limited as to the end mill size. I have bull nose and flat 2 flute up-cut mill bits. Do you think that will be alright?
Matt,
Yes they do go to the edge but I think you could minimize the "flat" by inserting a large blend radius between the flat and the carve top.
Yes the tools you have will work just fine.
Matt,
This is what I meant about the blend radius to minimize the flat (see pdf.)
Ahhh, yes that looks much better. Do you leave the part you are cutting a bit on the thick side--like for final sanding? If so how much extra would you leave--0.05, 0.1, or less?
If you do close passes (stepover amount) on your finish pass with the Ball (not bull) router bit you will go right to finish leaving only about .005 stock. Then the finish will be fantastic with only about 30 minutes of hand sanding.
Mredican,
If you have cross sections of the arching at different location points it makes modeling a lot easier. Especially if you have the sideview cross section. If you can have your machine cut the recurve area along the sides it will greatly reduce the amount of hand work that needs to be done. (And it is an important feature concerning tone) Here is a pic that kinda gives you an idea of how the recurve looks in the rendered model.
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