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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTFreeFlyer View Post
    I saw a few people mention in other threads that they found they had drilled a few set screw holes on the wrong side of the parts. I thought, "How could they have interpreted the drawing wrong?" The views are standard 3rd angle projection. Anyway, I found tonight that I had also drilled a few on the wrong side, lol!

    After reviewing the drawing, I guess I am to blame, but the views are very confusing. Take part 16 for example:

    The view on the bottom calls out the two 10-32 threaded holes, but fails to mention "Opposite Side" as you would normally see. Yes, the holes are shown in hidden line font, so I guess you can say the drawing is correct, but after doing CAD drawings for a living for the past 6 years, I don't think I've ever seen a dimension pointing to a hidden feature (I don't think it is standard practice), unless it is specifically called out as "opposite side" or something like that. I guess if I really paid attention and compared it to the top view, I would have caught this, but I assumed to put the hole into the face where the leader line is pointing. I'm pretty sure this is where others got confused too. Bob, I know you read these messages. Perhaps incorporate this into your next list of fixes just to prevent confusion (even though the drawing is correct as is). That's just my suggestion to your already awesome plans. The same goes for the two counterbored holes in this part. I almost put the counterbore into the wrong side. Pointing to the hidden feature without specifying "opposite side" occurs on several parts.

    Other than that, everything is going smoothly. I am enjoying my new drill press and getting lots of use out of it. It's amazing to see/feel the difference between a $2 drill bit and a similar $25 bit. Worth every penny, but I'll go broke fast if I keep buying the good bits even though I don't really need them for the soft 6061.

    I'm match drilling as many of the components as I can to ensure proper hardware alignment later on. Going deeper into the aluminum is easy, just requires more cutting fluid and clearing out the chips more frequently.

    I also found it to be much quicker to set up my vice under the drill press so that (for example) I can put a hole right on the centerline of the .75sq parts, and then drill all the centerline holes for all the .75sq parts first, and then coming back and drilling off of the centerline (such as in parts 16, 22, 23, etc). Setting up your piece under the drill press takes the most time (at least it does for me since I try to be a perfectionist), so reducing the amount of set ups really does save a lot of time. Try to group parts with similar features together, especially parts that have holes the same distance from a given edge, that way you can pop the part in the vice and you'll know that you'll always drill the same distance from the edge.

    I still have a long way to go...

    I need to start thinking about electronics soon. I haven't chosen my system yet. My budget for the electronics is $500-$600. I prefer quality over cheap Chinese items. I prefer a plug and play system, but don't mind wiring and soldering if I have to (I'm pretty good at that stuff). At the moment I have my eyes set on the Gecko 4 axis package (with 3 steppers). I want something that fits and is concealed in the Momus designed base. Will this work? A 4 axis driver would be cool in case I decided to experiment with another stepper in the future. What other suggestions do you all have for me?

    Thanks!
    I did the same thing part 16 still confuses the hell out of me. I had fixed the other parts but i still need to fix that one.



  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyDad View Post
    I think most are using the Colts but the latest batches seem to have the spindle problem so I am sticking with the Ridgid. It may not be as powerful but I'll take that over the spindle issues any day. The machine was designed around the 2400 and the 2401 isn't much different. The mount in the drawings works for it. For now, I'll turn mine on and off with the switch but a SuperPID is in my future hopefully.
    My mounts didn't fit very well the rigid has a threaded rod on it for adjust the cut depth when using it as a normal router and that was hitting the clamp i had to take the whole thing apart remove those parts and then dremel the plastic flat on the outside to get it to fit. Ill have ot post pics of the horrible looking things I did to it.



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    SuperPID has 15% off for the month and I just saw the ad. I don't even need it yet and I just had to buy it, lol. I also picked up some hardware and the Bosch Colt PR10E. Dropped $285 for the build today.



  4. #24
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    Hi Guys, havn't been here much in the past few months but I am back...for now at least

    GTFreeFlyer asked me to post pics of the Bosche clamps I designed for the Momus machine in his thread so here they are. Also, I am back to work on my larger Momus CNC. Got all the parts to change the belts to a screw drive system and the steel square tube to build a fram. I have already posted pics of the modified carriage and I have a few pics of the modified bearing rails at each end of the gantry. Will throw them up once I get them tapped and anodized.

    Billj

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Jonathan's Build Thread-imag0770-jpg  


  5. #25
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    Bj, thanks for the quote and pics. I still haven't made a decision on the clamps. I'd hate to see the alum I bought go to waste. I may try to cut it myself, but if I end up scrapping the parts, I'll shoot you another message.



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    Is anyone running Mach 3 off of their laptop? If I add a parallel port to my laptop, will I have issues running the machine? I heard something about the powersave feature in laptops messing with the timing? I'm debating if I want to build a cheap computer into the left side of the base. That would be pretty cool and there would be less wires running around.



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    I currently have that, but there was a thread somewhere what you have to do to make run as Desktop. Turn off all the power savings features. Otherwise its runs fine..



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    Quote Originally Posted by GTFreeFlyer View Post
    Is anyone running Mach 3 off of their laptop? If I add a parallel port to my laptop, will I have issues running the machine? I heard something about the powersave feature in laptops messing with the timing? I'm debating if I want to build a cheap computer into the left side of the base. That would be pretty cool and there would be less wires running around.
    If you left yourself extra bays on the left like I did, you can, but you are limited to something like a micro-atx Atom motherboard. Adequate, though. The Intel 525 (I think) apparently does well and has a parallel port. The slick thing would be an atom board with a pico power supply and a SSD. I figure a minimum of $250 + software. I have no idea if it runs Ubuntu, which is what I'm doing. Me: 6 year old AMD celeron 1.8 ghz I salvaged. Free. Free software too.



  9. #29
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    Nice. You mean something like this? Can I use a USB stick as a hard drive? I've never tried that before. That would be more ideal that buying a SSD or other hard drive.



  10. #30
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    I have a Intel D525MW mb running Ubuntu 10.04 with EMC2. The SSD boots up fast and quiet.

    Alan



  11. #31
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    GT, yes, like that, but you can't fit the case. I was thinking bare board. I'm not sure the differences between the 425 and 525, but several say the 525 works well. Most microatx don't have parallel ports, so make sure to check for that.

    I've read that generally usb type memory doesn't last very long as a HDD. I do know of an application where they use compact flash and do fine though.



  12. #32
    Gold Member acondit's Avatar
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    The Intel 510 is 1.6gHz and has a 26pin header for the parallel port while the 525 is 1.8gHz and has a DB-25 for the parallel port. There are some bugs in the 510 bios that are fixed in the 525 bios (I don't believe they released a fixed bios for the 510).



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    Thanks for that. I was looking for the speed of the 525 and its not easy to find on Intel's website. I'm currently using a 1.8ghz AMD Semperon. I'm thinking it would be similar.



  14. #34
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    Clamps are done. I'm glad that's over with. They seem to hold the Colt with authority. We'll have to see how they hold up to the vibration when I start cutting parts. I designed them to all fit in the 3x10x3/4" alum block I had purchased (per the plans). They were very easy to make, just quite time consuming to cut with a hack saw. I used a 2-3/4" and 1-11/16" bi-metal hole saw on the parts, which mate nicely with the Colt.

    I had already made the z-rail and block (parts 25 and 26) per the plans before I knew I was going to buy the colt, but I lucked out and was able to just drill new holes in them to accommodate the Colt. I don't need any extra parts to hold the Colt other than the new clamps and mods to parts 25 and 26.

    I bought a counterbore drill for the 1/4" SHCS and that really adds a nice touch to the parts.

    Looks like I'm going to have to remake part 28 (nut plate) since the anti-backlash nut flange has a different hole pattern than what I drilled into the nut plate. Does anyone have some extra aluminum for this small part they wouldn't mind sending over?

    Assembly is starting to take place finally!

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    I got my rails from Online Metals and the stock was bowed. How was yours and where did you buy it?



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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Adams View Post
    I got my rails from Online Metals and the stock was bowed. How was yours and where did you buy it?
    I guess I haven't really looked at it closely for straightness yet. Just from holding it and placing it under the drill press I haven't noticed any bowing, but I'll have to wait until I place it in between the bearings to see how straight it really is. I got all my metal from speedymetals, except for the rectangular gantry tube which I got from onlinemetals.



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    Quote Originally Posted by GTFreeFlyer View Post
    I guess I haven't really looked at it closely for straightness yet. Just from holding it and placing it under the drill press I haven't noticed any bowing, but I'll have to wait until I place it in between the bearings to see how straight it really is. I got all my metal from speedymetals, except for the rectangular gantry tube which I got from onlinemetals.
    Hope yours comes out OK. I'm think about taking the $35.00 loss and going to O1 ground stock which is ground on all sides, a bit more costly, but not a piece of crap. When I worked in the machine shop we used cold roll stock which was perfectly flat. So i did not question what i was buying. I would now ask the metal suppliers to make sure it is flat across the width. The bow was about 1/32" which tips the edge where the bearing is going to ride on. If I had the edges and width machined where they will ride. This would cost more time and $.
    Bob A
    CNC Programming Software Tools



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    I got my rails from Speedy Metals. The left one was perfect, but the right one (the more critical one) was junk. It is wavy, with about 1/8" variation one way and 1/16" the other. I've extended my X axis to 36", which makes it more of a problem.

    Fortunately I waited to do my OnlineMetals order in case I messed anything up, so I ordered one from them and it was dead flat. Cost an extra $9 for my 36" rail, so probably $6 for the standard 24".



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    Quote Originally Posted by cgodwin View Post
    I got my rails from Speedy Metals. The left one was perfect, but the right one (the more critical one) was junk. It is wavy, with about 1/8" variation one way and 1/16" the other. I've extended my X axis to 36", which makes it more of a problem.

    Fortunately I waited to do my OnlineMetals order in case I messed anything up, so I ordered one from them and it was dead flat. Cost an extra $9 for my 36" rail, so probably $6 for the standard 24".
    I would like to know what Momus has to say about this problem?



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    Since my angles were straight, I thought the rail might flatten out enough to be usable once it was bolted on. If you aren't planning on making very precise parts, that might work okay. But it was cheap enough to replace the part that I didn't try that approach.



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