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Thread: Arburg C4/b pneumatic injection

  1. #21
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    Default Re: Arburg C4/b pneumatic injection

    Yes. I have not worked on the 2 my father-in-law has since he passed.
    I still remember things about them as I work a lot with them.
    Some of the big things for you are do you have electrical tracing skills? CNC skills (to cut molds)? etc. I would recommend aluminum for the molds to start.
    Also your knowledge about plastic injection molds is also a key here.
    Many of them seem to be reworked and the controls seem to be whatever the owner came up with.
    The worst you can do is fire away.

    Remember the mold size is around 4" by 5" or so. It will have to fit between the tie bars.
    The machines can use up a lot of air if you are running as a production run. My father-in-law had a large air compressor so that was not a problem for us.



  2. #22
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    Default Re: Arburg C4/b pneumatic injection

    Thank you for the reply. I am an old rubber mold designer and do have a small cnc machine. The first step will be to get it in my garage. Next will be to get it running. It was rewired for manual operation only, but it looks like the controls are still there. Did you ever get the owners manual that you requested earlier? Even a German language version would be helpful at this point.



  3. #23
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    Default Re: Arburg C4/b pneumatic injection

    No I do not have a manual.
    Depends upon how it is set up horizontal or vertical. Can be switched by changing the bolt pattern and the square split nut blocks.
    We were running virgin polypropylene or polyethylene depending upon need.
    Don't know if your machine is set up for automatic runs or not. There would be a metal ring extending around the back the head where the pellets drop down.
    This ring activates a brass/bronze plug to push a new load of pellets into the melting chamber. The melting chamber always has about 2 or 4 shots of pellets in it.
    The pellets at the top are warming up while the others below are already melted and ready to inject. Each successive following shot move them near the nozzle and the heating bands.
    You should have some sort of temperature setting gauge on the system. Set it for the plastic you are using. These machines will drool a little as there is not stop on the nozzle.
    The plunger always moves down the same amount. It is not adjustable as far as I have been able to tell. This is where the amount of pellets in the melt chamber adjust the volume of shot into the mold.
    On the lower left portion of the machine base (holding the plastic head) there is a hole. This hole is a worm or gear mechanism to move the nozzle (a whole head) up and down relative to the injection sprue. The hole is a spline shaft to match the gear (I do not know what gear size or tooth DP). There is a large nut on the back of the main shaft which holds the whole head. That must be loosened to allow the gear to move the head up and down (if vertical).
    The slides have double nut near the back of the guide rods that has to be adjusted to allow the toggle mechanism to close the mold. It is best to push the toggle closed by hand (make sure there is no air pressure or you will lose a finger) then slide the mold closed. The twin nuts are used to fine tune the pressure to close the mold so you get limited flash. The second nut is a lock nut.
    The cycle on our machines were Eagle electo-mechanical timers which were quite old but worked. These were about 8 inches in length with multiple pins at the rear for connections.You can get modern digital ones to perform the same work. The same for the temperature gauge.
    Almost all pneumatic were run off of 5 port pneumatic solenoids wired into micro switches to complete cycle to allow everything to continue in the process.
    The follow steps all air activated:
    -Close mold
    -activate plunger down
    -plunger hold time for plastic packing and freeze gate of the plastic
    -retract plunger
    -metal ring near plunger head activated to push new pellets into the melt chamber
    -mold remains closed for cycle time (15-45 seconds depending upon size) to 'freeze' molten plastic.
    -retract mold plunger to open mold and have ejection pins push the part out (this happens as part of the mold design when the mold retracts)
    -cycle starts again

    I have no idea as to how your machine is wired or air hosed so I cannot be too much help with some of the stuff.



  4. #24
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    Default Re: Arburg C4/b pneumatic injection

    I also made rubber compression molds for antique auto parts. Vulcanizing type rubber about 30-70 Shore A durometer hardness



  5. #25
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    I may have found a book on these machines. A guy in Germany named Rainer posted this in his own website:

    https://radow.org/doc/Arburg-c4-v3-1.pdf

    Some translation required.



  6. #26
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    Default Re: Arburg C4/b pneumatic injection

    I got my machine today. It needs a ton of work. It looks like the injection ram is 16mm in diameter. Is this a standard size? I was hoping to do a 45 gram shot of nylon, but am not sure this size ram will support that.



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Arburg C4/b pneumatic injection

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