I am designing a face plate to adapt a rotary A axis to a chuck and a collet closer.

The rotary is a Fadal VH65. It's a pretty standard 4x T slot arrangement with a 1.380 bore through and 1.625 dia CB .250 deep on a 6.496" diameter face.

Visual representation of the 4th axis can be found here: https://www.cnczone.com/forums/fadal...te-layout.html

The chuck is a Kitagawa JN06T 3 jaw chuck

Specs can be found here: https://www.kitagawa.global/en/produ...l-chucks/jn06t

I would like to get a plain back 5c collet chuck but until I have one in my hot little hands I will not know the bolt circle spacing.


I can do the easy stuff:
I ordered a 7" diameter 1 inch thick plate of cold rolled.
I can lay out 4x 3/8 thru holes, counter bored for socket head cap screws on a 5.75" bolt circle (I figured further out would be better, I debated a second set inboard)
I can lay out 3x m10x1.5 thru holes, indexed 15 degrees, on a 5.7874 bolt circle (147mm bolt circle per Kitagawa)
I drew a 1.4" diameter thru hole for clearance, since the limiting factor is 1.380 on the rotary
I planned on a 1.624" diameter raised boss .187 tall to assist locating the fixture plate in the center of the rotary
I can make parallel. I can make flat.

Where I get hung up is wondering if this will be sufficient. I haven't done a lot of rotary A work before so there might be a lot out there that I don't know.
Should I add a flat on the outside of the plate for a repeatable A axis reference? I would think any part would be round or any fixture would have an A axis indicator built in because it's specific to the fixture and not the face plate.
Should I bore a small diameter in the center of the plate so I can tram in my Y axis easily every time? It never gets as close as indicating the actual work piece itself though.
I thought about tick marks on the outside profile but they'd be a visual reference only, and at that point why wouldn't I just eye ball the 3/8 bolts.
The best suggestion I received was to add a screw driver slot for prying the chuck off the face plate without gouging either surface.
Figured I'd bounce it off the forum and see if there were any great ideas I could implement.

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