Question about cutting speeds

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    Default Question about cutting speeds

    Hi Guys,
    I’ve been using my CNC Router Parts 2x4 pro for over a year now, so I guess you can say I’m still a newbie lol !
    I’ll try to keep this short but to the point.
    So I have the 2x4 pro with the 34 ?steppers motors.
    I’m using a PC 3hp router and I enjoy to make all sorts of projects.
    My latest project was ( see attachment) a 34”x 20” 3d wall decor.
    What’s bothering me is that it took me 12 hours to do.
    I started using a 1/2 carbide ball 2 flute with 1/4” max step over and 1/8” step down at 13000rpm and 80 feed speed .
    Then 2 passes @ 125 speed and same rpm using a taper 1/4 to 1/16” to finish.
    I adjust my speeds and feeds by ear trying to insure there is no chatter or motor stalling do to overload.
    My question is if I upgraded to CNC Router Parts spindle motor could I cut deeper and faster?
    I’ve been cutting in dimensional 2x pine because it’s cheap and I’m still learning everyday.....
    And that brings up a second question...
    I know that the 2x pine isn’t the driest but is there a way to keep it from cupping?? This last piece curled up 1/2” on me almost ruining the project.

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    Default Re: Question about cutting speeds

    You can cut much faster with the PC router that you are using.
    Try the roughing pass at 18,000 rpm and 300ipm.
    Then do a single finish pass at 18,000 rpm and 250ipm.

    That should reduce the time substantially.

    The wood is cupping because it's drying. If you want it to stay flat, it needs to be kiln dried to 6-8% moisture before you machine it. If you don't live in a desert, you'll only see this immediately after removing it from a kiln. Note that construction pine is not usually dried that much, even when it's kiln dried, it's usually closer to 20%.

    A PC7518 has more than enough power for these light cuts.

    Gerry

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    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    You can cut much faster with the PC router that you are using.
    Try the roughing pass at 18,000 rpm and 300ipm.
    Then do a single finish pass at 18,000 rpm and 250ipm.

    That should reduce the time substantially.

    The wood is cupping because it's drying. If you want it to stay flat, it needs to be kiln dried to 6-8% moisture before you machine it. If you don't live in a desert, you'll only see this immediately after removing it from a kiln. Note that construction pine is not usually dried that much, even when it's kiln dried, it's usually closer to 20%.

    A PC7518 has more than enough power for these light cuts.
    Thanks Ger,
    I guess I’m thinking more about deeper cuts and slower speeds so not to beat the machine up to much. Like I said, I’m always learning !!!!
    I’ve run the machine at 200 for finishing passes, I’d hate to get in its way at 300 !!! Lol
    I forget to mention the bit is 6” long and with about 5” hanging out I didn’t like the vibration I felt at higher speeds. It’s a new bit I was trying out, maybe a shorter bit would handle the speed better.



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Question about cutting speeds

Question about cutting speeds