Joe's CNC Model 2006 (Mods & Additions)


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    Default Joe's CNC Model 2006 (Mods & Additions)

    I thought I would open this Thread to Be able to have all the Modifications and Additions to the Machine so it would be easy to find them in one place instead of stumbling onto them in all the different threads.

    Joe

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    Ok, I guess i will start if off with just a brief list of mods to the machine.

    1.) sanding the pipe rails. (this helps with smoothness and cuts on the machine)

    2.) I added threaded rod through the sides of the gantry across the the Y-Axis. if i remember right they are 14.5" from the bottom. I also added threaded rod just above the Lower Gantry torsion box the rods go through the gantry sides and also through the X-Axis bearing adjustment box.

    Jay "dighsx" added bed rail angle iron to the sides of his and also some straping at the bottom of the X-Axis bearing adjustment block. And he also added a spring loaded leadscrew tensioner. His website www.cncjay.com

    http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...50611288533238

    3.) bolt the machine down, like all other machines they should be very stable this will help with the jerking of the machine when motors shift travel directions.



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    Have you added, or thought about the 8 TPI ACME Leadscrews?

    Seems like I saw you or someone posting about it in one of the threads. I have read so much I cant remember where it all is. Sent you an email the other day.

    Thanks
    Glenn



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    Quote Originally Posted by Depdog View Post
    Have you added, or thought about the 8 TPI ACME Leadscrews?

    Seems like I saw you or someone posting about it in one of the threads. I have read so much I cant remember where it all is. Sent you an email the other day.

    Thanks
    Glenn
    Yes Rick used them on his machine 1/2-8 two start which gave him 4 turns per inch, the other day he was just testing the machine to see what it would jog at and got over 300ipm jogs. He also made his own anti-backlash based from mine.

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23546

    Joe



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    One thing you can do before painting the machine is after glueing all parts together as required, use a mixture of half wood glue and half water then brush all parts with a foam brush and solution, this makes a very good base coat and when you paint it the paint sticks good and also does not soak into the cut end pieces, if you have tried to spray paint the ends before you will notice it soaks up alot of paint, the wood glue mixture seals the MDF very well.

    Joe



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    Well I thought I might share some things. In another thread someone wanted more details or explanation of how the carpet tape is used in cutting parts. I like it because you don't have to worry about hitting screw heads but just remember to be liberal about it; you don't have to go crazy with the tape though. Before running the part, try wiggling it and moving it, if it moves at all DO not run the part, I've made that mistake. Take it out, put more tape or add a screw in opposite corners. Some materials it holds well, some not. HDPE seems to hold fairly well, as does solid woods, mdf and natural plywood.



    Start off applying it.



    Lay it down where you want it, I created a jig fixture by milling out two channels and using aluminum to create a removable fence. It works extremely well for parts you need to flip over and mill the other side. I had trouble with it in the past, but recently got it dead on; I just now design parts with the fence in it so that they all cut from the same home position in the program.



    You don't always have to, but I do most of the time anyways removing the alum just in case I do through cutting where I may hit it.



    Parts cut, everything held in place nicely. This is the bottom plate for joes new dc design and some other stuff I wanted to cut.



    Take the parts out, a little cleanup sometimes, mostly just static and you can vaccum them up and they are good to go.



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    Also I had a problem with so much chips and dust getting on the bearings and rails so I was at home depot actually getting the plastic carpet runner material for the new dc housing and I saw these when they gave me the idea. They are just cheap vinyl toe kicks/base that are used in commercial rooms and sometimes cheap housing/apts. I think they are $3 for 4'. Screwed them in and they are working REALLY well. No chips on the rails now. If anyone does this remember to predrill every screw.







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    Looks good Brian!

    The jig is a pretty slick idea!
    I can't believe how well the tape holds things in place. I'll have to try that some time!

    Order that ATC yet?

    Bob



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    Quote Originally Posted by ccsparky View Post
    Looks good Brian!

    The jig is a pretty slick idea!
    I can't believe how well the tape holds things in place. I'll have to try that some time!

    Order that ATC yet?

    Bob

    Sparky,

    Ordered it the other day. Can't wait, so tired of having in consistent vcarving depths and having to reset everything all the time. Tape is good, just be careful, and test it with your own strength always before cutting. Cut anything lately?



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    Quote Originally Posted by bp092 View Post
    Sparky,

    Ordered it the other day. Can't wait, so tired of having in consistent vcarving depths and having to reset everything all the time. Tape is good, just be careful, and test it with your own strength always before cutting. Cut anything lately?
    It'll be nice, can't wait to see it in action!

    No, I've just about finished the drawings for a gear driven dust collector attachment. I've got the gears and shaft. Will try to cut the parts this week.
    It's designed it to work with the ATC and as drawn right now with a modification of Joe's original brush type DC collector. The idea is to get the DC raised so it will not interfere when replacing tools in the tool rack. (Which I still have to build also).
    I've got to get back to my power supply / control cabinet so I can replace the Xylotex stuff and have the extra 269oz motor to try on the DC. Also will have to order another Gecko G203V to drive it.
    Endless hours of fun!!!



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    Sounds interesting, I would like to see it when it's done.. still my biggest goal is to eliminate the vibration, wish there was some other way to show you guys so that you could determine in your best view how I could fix it.



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    bp092 - do you have a thread where you have documented you vibration.... been working on my vibrations and so far I have them figured out, might be able to use my knowledge to point you in the right direction.



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    BP... thanks for the detailed story on using the tape... I picked some up on the weekend... but have not had a chance to do anything with it yet. I like your idea of the removable wall, i put one in but it is perminent I think I will delay it a little and implement your removable idea.



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    Go for it, it's easy to use. If you need the acad file or gcode let me know. I just used an 1/8" spiral bit, milled out two 1/4" deep pockets in my spoil board and cut up some aluminum pieces from home depot and put them in. They should fit snug but be removable. There are a lot of ways to do it to make a jig or jigs if you're doing a lot of parts at the same time but this is what has been working for me. It's also great even if you only use one for finding that perfect parallel line on your machine.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzz9075 View Post
    bp092 - do you have a thread where you have documented you vibration.... been working on my vibrations and so far I have them figured out, might be able to use my knowledge to point you in the right direction.
    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27561 The last few pages document it to my best ability. I would be thrilled to hear what you went through and how you rectified your problems. Anything you can share I would appreciate it, just post in my thread. Thank you!



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    Thanks, I was thing I would take a piece of 3/4" ply wood and cut through it and into the table at the same time. This would give me my 90D angle on the table and an edge to attach to. Then attach a 1/4" alluminum plate to the edges of the plywood so they will sit down into the table. I still have to make my sacraficial plate first.

    Two things I really like about your idea.
    1 - I only loose 1/8" machining area on the table from the 0,0 (half the width of the cutter). Before I woudl cut a 1" slot and put a piece of wood, this consumed 1/2" of the cutting area.
    2 - Very temporary and VERY easy to remove. Before I would have to either cut into my edges or spend 5 minutes removing them.



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    I hear yah. It's simple and effective. I'm working on a new fixture now with toggle clamps for production parts, quick release of sorts but still based on that concept of drawing the fence into every program of parts I design. Again I'm in no way educated in cnc programming or machining but this was the only way in my mind I could ever identify a common area where I would place objects/work pieces to be milled. I don't have home switches ATM or an accurate edge of the table to work off of like commercial machines.



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    Default Priming and painting tip

    Hey all,
    Joe suggested that I put this painting tip up here.....

    Instead of using lots o' spray cans for priming and painting Joe's 2006 machine, you might try using a small very fine foam roller. See pics below.
    The nice thing about using the roller is that you can paint directly over holes and grooves that should NOT have paint in them and they will be perfectly clean after painting with no masking. Also, on many accounts in the forum, you'll read about all the spray cans that one goes through to get the thing primed. All of the parts shown below have had two coats of Kilz Odorless primer while only using 1/2 of a quart. The added bonus is that the roller leaves a very nice even coat that will be ready for paint. I picked up the Kilz at Lowes for about the same price as two cans of spray and the roller which is package with the tray was $1.98.

    Joe

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Joe's CNC Model 2006 (Mods & Additions)-dscn1193-jpg   Joe's CNC Model 2006 (Mods & Additions)-dscn1196-jpg  


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    Default T-Nut Mod

    Actually, I was surprised to hear that a T-Nut is really not a nut at all!!!!! It's a piece of hardware.

    Seriously, I'm a big fan of the T-nut but not as a mod for Joe's machine. I did try them on the kit and they were as tight as I could possible get them by using a bolt on the other side and tightening until they were flush with the surface. After assembling the Z axis assembly, the slightest little nudge had two of them popping right out with no resistance at all. It's probably because the kit was machined to accept a 5/16" nut which didn't leave much meat in the MDF to hold the T-Nut.

    I went to Home Depot and picked up Insert Nuts, which are pictured below (sorry about the flash glare). These are HM (House Mates)1/4-20 X 20mm and the HD part number is 54454. These inserts have a flange on them and are screwed very snuggly into an 11/32" hole with a hex wrench. There is no way these guys are coming out, unless you purposely unscrew them. They seem to hold MUCH better and so I thought I would leave this info here in the mods section for all you new builders.

    Have fun,
    Joe

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Joe's CNC Model 2006 (Mods & Additions)-insert-nuts-jpg  


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    Default Wood nut inserts

    Thanks PhillyCyberJoe,
    I ran across this link http://www.profhdwr.com/55008.htmin my favorites. I had forgoten about it. Price looks real resonable. I was thinking of attaching spoil board with them. were you able to get yours flush ?

    Edit : I went to the above link to order the product. But there site wanted me to turn off firewall to let shopping cart work .I have run across this numerous times before. I just relax my settings in my firewall to enable pop-ups and cookies. This site still would not let me order / access shopping cart even after doing this. I am not comfortable with this arrangement so please Order at Your Own Risk. I did send a emiail to them asking why the above procedure did not work. I will keep you posted.

    Last edited by calgrdnr; 05-04-2007 at 08:08 PM.


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Joe's CNC Model 2006 (Mods & Additions)

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