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  1. #61
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    I think this is what you want. This worked for my new bearings anyway. You don't need to machine the two holes at .2D Marked with T.

    Attached Files Attached Files


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    Buzz thanks, I figured it out being eager to get this machine taken apart this weekend. Appreciate the file though, will be helpful for others.



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    This is the one that I used in V-carve.

    Rick

    Attached Files Attached Files


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    Some have asked for a picture of the motor side of the Axis, Here is the X-Axis setup. Note: the standard 1/2" nut all i did was drill out the threads on the drill press to 1/2" to use them as spacers against the center race of the bearings.

    Joe

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Joe's CNC Model 2006 (Mods & Additions)-picture-001-jpg   Joe's CNC Model 2006 (Mods & Additions)-picture-002-jpg  


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    Thanks for the pics joe, it helps a lot and is clearer than even paragraphs of explanations.



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    Thanks Joe. This answers a lot of my questions. I had used washers on each end of the spring which were a little larger than the bearings and this caused enough friction to keep the motor from moving the lead screw. I will have to try your way. One other thing, approximately how much compression are you putting on the spring for the preload?



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    not a whole lot of pressure, it is just enough to compress the spring by hand and this will not let the leadscrew move around. you can twist the dumpster clamps by hand then clamp it down. Make sure as Tim suggest on his site not to over tighten the clamps, they grip really well to the threads.

    Joe



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    Got the y axis assembled w/ the spring and new stuff. I ended up using a metal washer in between the dumpster clamp and the spring because it was grinding into it and didn't want to damage it after heavy usage. Anyhow, what settings would you recommend changing in mach3? Should I adjust the microstepping? Currently I have it on 8000 steps per and the jumpers on ms1 & enab on my xylotex board which I believe is quarter step. Otherwise I'm ready to fire it up and see what happens!



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    well I gave it a shot at 16000 and 1/8th, was anxious, holy cow, 100IPM sounds so quiet, before it sounded horrible. It's stalling a lot on one side and anything higher than that. I'm not sure if its binding in the bearings or not, it may still be tight a bit in some areas and I will now use the router as a jig to grind things down .



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    If you are getting stalling as you approach an edge/bearing I usually fine this is because the bearing is not aligned to the lead screw. You could adjust now or wait till you have done your alignment as each time you realign your machine you will change the center location for the bearing.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzz9075 View Post
    If you are getting stalling as you approach an edge/bearing I usually fine this is because the bearing is not aligned to the lead screw. You could adjust now or wait till you have done your alignment as each time you realign your machine you will change the center location for the bearing.
    This is correct, because this is a DIY so to speak machine, the way it is bolted together, the way the bearing slides are made, different manufatures or bolts etc. will always give a slight variation in the perfect alignment.

    What you can do is for the holes in the router end (the 4 around the Leadscrew hole) drill those out say to start with 5/16" or slightly bigger, move the gantry to the end and then tighten doen the HDPE bearing block. this will center the leadscrew/bearing to the actual gantry. You can also do this with the Y-Axis.

    Joe



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    Joe thanks for the advice. I may try it. Much of the problems I've had in adjusting in the past and now I believe is due to the shotty job I did with the angle/bearing mounts. I did the best I could with a drill press, a mill would have been better and next time if I build a bigger machine I will use my router to cut a jig and or template for drilling the holes so that everything is within a 32nd" of an inch. Do you think it may have any negative affects to move that rod? From what you and buzz mentioned and from what I understood; you're loosening up the bearing block (hdpe) so that you can bolt it to the gantry side precisely where it will be center? I had the carriage perfect, I mean dead on and the lead rod directly in that hole. The problem was that two of the lower left bearings weren't contacting, giving the ability to literally lift the carriage up on one side. I tightened the adjustment bolts on the top as minimal as I could, it probably was just enough to set the acme screw off center from the hole. Anyhow, will try it tonight; any other suggestions are welcome.. I'm all ears. Can't wait though to put in the rest of the stuff as I ordered more dumpster clamps and one more ab nut for the x.



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    Default Rough pipe

    Hope this the correct place to post this?
    It seems like a common problem on a Joes Machine is the condition of the pipes used for the rails. They are either dinged,gouged by the jaws of the pipe machine used to cut them or have uneven,rough paint or galvanizing.
    So they need to be smoothed up before use.
    Now to get to the point, hidden in home Depot is chrome closet rod !! Home depot carries it its just not in any place you would expect to find it they seem to hide it in a differant place in each store its smooth as a babys bottom strong enough to hold up a full wardrobe of your average "I don't have a thing to Wear" princess comes in lengths of up to 8 feet sure its a couple of pennys more but its ready to go no gouges ,dings bends etc I work with pipe and thats what I would use for round rod bearing setup the main name I see is "lido designs" may be others

    8' CHROME CLOSET ROD $37.99
    Lido Designs Model: LB-10-A106/8

    here is a link to a online source.
    http://doitbest.com/Main.aspx?PageID=64&SKU=257273

    The reason I posted here is it 1 5/16" in dia so the machine would have to modified to accomodate it. They also have telescoping sections of smaller diameter. They are quite strong and when you figure in your labor reasonibly priced



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    Those closet rods are nice, smooth and strong but I would be curious to joes opinion on long term strength of them with bearings putting so much pressure on the rods. Some of the members here have chucked gas pipe (suggested for the build for reasons of strength) on a lathe and polished them down. I did mine by hand but still there are bumps in some places that can't be avoided. I don't believe it makes the machine rock at all or change the position of the router. If there were only 2 bearings one on top and one on bottom probably but there is so much surface area that each angle rides on I haven't found it to be a big issue. Anyhow, joe's opinion would be interesting, he is after all the chief honcho on this topic.



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    Not fully sure if anyone is using any jigs or work holders and I'm fairly sure most of you haven't added a vacuum system to joes table but heres a cool video I just came across showing a fundamental example of utilizing the machine to create a work fixture for yourself.



    For me one of the hardest things to grasp and also one of the coolest things to figure out was how to machine two sides to a part and line up perfectly on both sides. The best and simplest method for me so far as I've shown in pictures is to mill out channels and use aluminum angle or small rips of alum sheet to sit in there and once screwed down you can remove them so you don't risk hitting them when cutting/carving. In this video he milled out sections on his spoil sheet. One to pocket out a section of the back for the clock works, and then the second part he flipped it over and fit that into the reverse of that pocket perfectly. Milling into the spoil board for this kind of stuff is always interesting, programmers and operators all seem to have different ways about it. That's why I always remind myself that the machine is so fundamentally simple but unless you are creative enough to know how to use it, you're going to be limited by lack of creativity.

    Now.. if only I could afford a vacuum pump it would make my life a lot easier! BTW google video/youtube has an immense amount of videos on cnc routers. Great info, cool videos I'm sure you've all ventured on. Thought this video might be of some insight to joe06 owners, as it has been for me.



  16. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by technomage View Post
    Hope this the correct place to post this?
    It seems like a common problem on a Joes Machine is the condition of the pipes used for the rails. They are either dinged,gouged by the jaws of the pipe machine used to cut them or have uneven,rough paint or galvanizing.
    So they need to be smoothed up before use.
    Now to get to the point, hidden in home Depot is chrome closet rod !! Home depot carries it its just not in any place you would expect to find it they seem to hide it in a differant place in each store its smooth as a babys bottom strong enough to hold up a full wardrobe of your average "I don't have a thing to Wear" princess comes in lengths of up to 8 feet sure its a couple of pennys more but its ready to go no gouges ,dings bends etc I work with pipe and thats what I would use for round rod bearing setup the main name I see is "lido designs" may be others

    8' CHROME CLOSET ROD $37.99
    Lido Designs Model: LB-10-A106/8

    here is a link to a online source.
    http://doitbest.com/Main.aspx?PageID=64&SKU=257273

    The reason I posted here is it 1 5/16" in dia so the machine would have to modified to accomodate it. They also have telescoping sections of smaller diameter. They are quite strong and when you figure in your labor reasonibly priced
    I would lean on not getting the crome closet rods, with the bearings rolling on them the crome might flake and be a rougher surface in the future than the pipe that has been sanded. And is the wall thickness less?

    Joe



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    Default Bearing Slide Assembly Alignment

    Hi Joe, this is my first on line post relating to my build of the Joe's CNCRouter 2006. I have purchased many of the required parts and started a BLOG
    http://www.dickshouse.net/wordpress
    of my efforts. I have completed all of the bearing slides and tested them on the 3/4" drill rod. I have not purchased the 1" diameter pipe yet to measure the OD and test the X-Axis bearing slides. Apparently there are issues with obtaining clean, straight, unmarred pipe. I will try a large pipe supply company in Tacoma and purchase two 20 foot lengths that I can cut to size and clean up in my lathe.

    I noticed when testing the bearing slides that the Y-Axis bearing slide using your recommended bolting arrangement in the manual called for a lock washer. This seemed to place the contact point of the drill rod on the bearing contact surface at the edge of the bearing. Because the bearings had play in them out of the box this seemed a bad location. As a result I started up AUTOCAD, got samples of all the components, my micrometer, and drew two cross sections, attached, showing the contact points for the 3/4" drill rod on the bearings. The Z-Axis bearing slides are not too bad but the Y-Axis bearing slide seems way to close to the edge of the bearing. I am inclined to change the Y-Axis bolting to match the Z-Axis so that the contact point on the bearings is closer to the center of the bearing contact surface.

    Since I do not have the parts from you yet for the router, I would appreciate you opinion of making this change to the Y-Axis bolting to match the Z-Axis. Will this change any thing during assembly of the router? Is there enough adjustment and room to make this change without affecting the accuracy of the router?

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Joe's CNC Model 2006 (Mods & Additions)-zy-axis-cross-section-pdf  


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    Quote Originally Posted by trajan View Post
    ...I noticed when testing the bearing slides that the Y-Axis bearing slide using your recommended bolting arrangement in the manual called for a lock washer. This seemed to place the contact point of the drill rod on the bearing contact surface at the edge of the bearing. Because the bearings had play in them out of the box this seemed a bad location. As a result I started up AUTOCAD, got samples of all the components, my micrometer, and drew two cross sections, attached, showing the contact points for the 3/4" drill rod on the bearings. The Z-Axis bearing slides are not too bad but the Y-Axis bearing slide seems way to close to the edge of the bearing. ...?
    From your drawing, you're using 3/4" as the OD of the Y-axis rod - in pipe terminology, the 3/4" is the ID. Don't recall the exact OD, but it should center up the contact points nicely. [edit - 1.05" OD]

    For the Z-axis drill rod, 3/4" is the OD.

    Gary



  19. #79
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    Gary is correct you need to consider the wall thickness, i'm kinda sure the setup mentioned is what works, i will count what i have on mine, you can also see them in pictures that others as well as myself have.

    Joe



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    I assumed that you used 3/4" drill rod (solid) for the Y and Z axis. I have purchased that and not 3/4" pipe. Did I make a mistake?

    R



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