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  1. #1
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    Default Big Orange jgro

    Been spending the last couple of weeks building. I wanted to build a Joe 2006, but without a CNC and without cash, I figured JGRO was the way to go. I did, however, implement Joe's changes that makes the unit a little bigger.

    I have most things figured out. I'm using the Hobby CNC controller, but I found some 160 in-oz steppers at Marlin P Jones for only $12.95 each, so I decided to go with those even though it will affect my speed. My lead screws are 5/16 threaded rod, which fits nicely in the skate bearings. I fashioned some motor couplers from 1/2" aluminum rod, which is drilled and tapped, then I used 1/2"ID rubber hose and hose clamps to fasten them together.

    Things are mostly good, but I'm fighting with the bearings on the long Y axis. I just cannot get one bearing on each side to make contact. I was pretty sure my pipe was flexing in the middle, and I think supporting it there will help, but I'm thinking I am going to have to take it apart and shim to get everything to make contact. X and Z were mild problems, but I could adjust the pipes enough to tighten things up.

    Here are a few pictures on my progress:

    Similar Threads:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Big Orange jgro-img_1314-jpg   Big Orange jgro-img_1315-jpg   Big Orange jgro-img_1316-jpg  


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    If you can, use 5/16 stainless threaded rod it won't whip as much as the standard rod. Although I used a much stronger option than the pipes I supported the entire length of the axis. I also used threaded rod running under the pipes to pull the sides together and keep them from pushing out as the gantry moved along the axis.



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    I am using 5/16-18 threaded rod since it fits the skate bearings and can be gotten easily. I know many people use acme 1/2-10, and I may do that eventually, but I am starting with what I can get at Home Depot and Tractor Supply.

    With Joe's variation, the linear bearings ride on the outside of the pipes, and the lower front of the gantry has holes that go completely around the pipe. I concluded that my problem was the pipes getting squeezed together in the middle, so after some tinkering, I came up with center supports. I am going to have to modify the gantry a bit so that I don't have interference.

    I am now able to get all the bearings to make contact. I will post pictures this weekend when, hopefully, I will have all three axes assembled.



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    Congratulations on your build. You're going to love the JGRO. I know I loved mine, I cut a lot of stuff on it too.

    Once you get up and running, you will want to go faster then the 5/16"-18 threaded rod will allow. Just like gears in a car, you will be cruising along everywhere in first gear. You won't go very fast in first gear either.

    Eventually, speed will become more important, and the easiest way to increase speed is to upgrade the threaded rod to an ACME 1/2"-8 (2 start) [4.5 times faster]. Or even the 1/2"-10 (5 start) [9 times faster].

    Hope this helps later in your JGRO experience. You're going to love it. Get some good software too. Mach3 and VcarvePro are my favorites.
    Take care
    Dave



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    Glidergider,

    Thanks for the advice. I have looked through many of your posts, which helped me get started in the first place. I will probably move to an ACME rod when I get the thing done, but I wasn't sure how far I would get, and ordering then waiting is not a lot of fun. I wasn't sure a 1/2" would fit on the Z axis, but I have seen how slow the Y axis travel is with a drill -- it seems like it takes forever to get from one end to the other.

    I have been using linux for years, so I have initially installed EMC2 and have been able to at least jog the Z axis. I feel pretty confident I can get it to work. In this forum, it does not appear as popular as Mach 3, but it is free.

    I have watched others progress from simple and cheap to more complex and expensive, and I may follow when I get experience, or I may decide that slow, simple, and cheap suit my purposes. I should at least be able to get a couple of Christmas presents done. Then I will have to decide whether to upgrade the jgro or use it to build something like the Joe 2006 in which case I would definitely make it faster.



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    Default Rod supports

    I couldn't get all the bearings on the Y axis to make contact with the gas pipe, so I added a couple of supports to the middle. Now, I can adjust the width at each end and the middle, which allows all the bearings to make contact. It also stiffens the pipe quite a bit. I fear, however, that alignment may be more tricky, but I am as close as I can get without the table attached.

    I had to modify the lower front of the gantry to clear the new center supports. Perhaps, there is an easier way to do this, but this works for me.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Big Orange jgro-img_1317-jpg   Big Orange jgro-img_1318-jpg  


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    Nice work, I like the modifications.

    My wife wanted me to paint my jgro orange, but I just couldn't do it...

    Deeds not words...
    VoltsAndBolts runs RC for the builder. http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/ My Forum


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    Thanks. If this week goes as expected, then I'll need it to start manufacturing points for Tennessee. Perhaps, basketball season will be better.



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    Default Update

    Just an update on my progress. Sorry, no pictures.

    I built a torsion box for the table, and I think it turned out pretty well. I drilled holes in all the internal parts, so I could potentially attach a vacuum to it to hold parts down. I have seen this concept in other posts, but I have not seen where someone has actually done it. I'll just need to drill a series of holes in the top and do some external plumbing to try it out.

    I mounted the router -- an old Craftsman 1.5 hp. I took the base off the router and bypassed the switch so it is always on. I am not thrilled with the appearance of the MDF bracket, but it works. I had problems with the MDF wanting to split on the narrow sections, so I coated the whole thing in thin cyanoacrylate ("super glue") to hold it together and make it stronger. (My old company had a 3-D printer that made parts out of powder. We would soak the whole thing in super glue and it was really strong.)

    I do have all 3 axes working, but I have decided to take some time and make a rolling stand for this beast and mount the electronics instead of just having them sit sprawled out on a table. Perhaps, this week I will actually cut something!



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    Looking good! Don't expect much speed with the 5/16-18 all thread. http://pminmo.com/mechancial-power

    Phil, Still too many interests, too many projects, and not enough time!!!!!!!!
    Vist my websites - http://pminmo.com & http://millpcbs.com


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    Just jogging it with EMC2, I'm around 40 in/min. EMC2 does everything in in/s, and it seems pretty reliable at .6 in/s. I might be able to .7 or .8. Right now, I'm just thrilled the thing moves! Eventually, I'm sure I will move up to an ACME rod.



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    A few more pictures to post. I got the router mounted and the electronics "mounted." You would think that a EE would do better, but I just screwed the electronics to a piece of OSB on the roller base I made. I will eventually make a dust cover, but for now, it keeps everything together and gives me some more room.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Big Orange jgro-img_1319-jpg   Big Orange jgro-img_1320-jpg  


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    Default First "real" cut

    It took me all weekend to figure out how to draw something, generate the gcode, and get the machine to be "happy" with it. I migrated to Sketchup and CamBam, and can now actually design a 2.5D part and cut it out.

    I noticed my router mount appeared to be cracking, so based upon some other post, I designed a new bracket to hold my old Sears router. I am then going to mount a dust collector hose to it in the hopes of keeping the dust down.

    I can say that I am not thrilled with the way Sketchup does circles. You can really tell on the actual part that it is composed of straight lines. I may just have to bite the bullet and learn the SolidEdge 2D package I downloaded but then became frustrated with it.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Big Orange jgro-img_1334-jpg   Big Orange jgro-img_1333-jpg  


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    When drawing circles on Sketchup, you need to select the circle > right click > divide > 100 segments.

    When you click divide, you will see a bunch of red dots, you can move your cursor around to use more or fewer segments. 100 is the max resolution so use that. This will really help your circles actually look like circles in Sketchup.



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    Thanks. I'll check that. I think it was set on 24, which looked OK on the screen, but not great in real life. I also need to increase my acceleration on the steppers. Cutting circles with all these small lines is slow. I'm only cutting at 30 in/min and I have the acceleration set slow just to make sure everything is stable. I didn't notice it too much on straight lines, but circles and curves are somewhat painful.



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    Have you tried to cut out any more circles yet after increasing the resolution of the circles in Sketchup?



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    No, I have not tried it yet. I have spent my limited time working on the new spindle holder and trying to come up with an attachment to my dust collector. I'm pretty sure upping it will work, but what I have produced so far is functional.

    On the "to do list" this weekend is to incorporate a solid stay relay for spindle on/off control, work on homing/limit switches, and start drawing doll furniture for Christmas. Some of the pieces have curves, so I may get to try out Sketchup's curves again.



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    Just a couple more pictures of the new router mount and dust collection. I found a cheap LED desk lamp at the tool store, so I bought it, took it apart, and mounted it beside the router. The dust collector hood is a deli meat container. I cut a hole in the top to fit around the router and a hole in the end for the dust collector tube. The router has one screw hole on the far side, so I put a screw there and a wire hook on the front so it won't be impossible to remove to change bits.

    I added a solid state relay for spindle control. I like this a lot. I was plugging and unplugging the router, but now I can just push a button. I mounted the SSR in a metal electrical box to give it a little heat sink, and to protect from the exposed high voltage.

    My first attempt at limit switches was a total failure. I have some magnetic security type switches that I thought would work, but the magnet is too powerful and activate the switch from several inches away. I guess I will have to use old fashioned push button switches.

    I am also trying to figure out how to do homing. So far, I have just eye-balled home and called that good enough, but I am going to be doing some things that require repeatability. My spindle is grounded, so I can make a touch plate for Z. I'm just not yet sure what to do about X and Y. I have thought about mounting some aluminum angle at the origin, which would help me accurately position material, and be a homing sensor. I could also just get a laser bullseye and and manually align it with a mark on the table.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Big Orange jgro-img_1335-jpg   Big Orange jgro-img_1336-jpg   Big Orange jgro-img_1337-jpg  


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