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  1. #81
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    Thumbs up Confirmat screws

    the plans are posted as the first message in this thread.

    The reason I am asking about the size is because I am uncertain as to exactly which screws they are recommending replacing with CONFIRMAT.. it is either the 10mm screws, or else the 1/4 inch screws, and I don't know which length of screw they are recommending replacing as well.

    I have no background with reading blueprints and/or design plans, so i am still learning as I go.

    Thanks for the help though. It is greatly appreciated!

    Eddie




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    ESMILLER,

    I have just completed most of the wood working for the JGRO special. I got to tell you that drilling and tapping all thoses holes is a real pain. I have been tempted on many occasions to just drill pilot holes and use course drywall screws. (Cheaper and easier).

    I haven't added up all my recipts yet but figure I have about $30 worth of bolts and washers in it. However, now that it's all done, Im glad I used the bolts instead of screws as the machine has be taken apart many times for adjustment, modification and painting and the bolts make re-alignment much easier that screws.

    A word of advise is to not drill the mounting holes for the pipe adjustment blocks or steppers until you have the blocks made and the steppers purchase. Use them as a templete to drill the mounting holes LAST.

    Good luck with your build.

    Steve



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    Quote Originally Posted by stevec
    ESMILLER,

    I have just completed most of the wood working for the JGRO special. I got to tell you that drilling and tapping all thoses holes is a real pain. I have been tempted on many occasions to just drill pilot holes and use course drywall screws. (Cheaper and easier).

    I haven't added up all my recipts yet but figure I have about $30 worth of bolts and washers in it. However, now that it's all done, Im glad I used the bolts instead of screws as the machine has be taken apart many times for adjustment, modification and painting and the bolts make re-alignment much easier that screws.

    A word of advise is to not drill the mounting holes for the pipe adjustment blocks or steppers until you have the blocks made and the steppers purchase. Use them as a templete to drill the mounting holes LAST.

    Good luck with your build.

    Steve
    Thanks for the advice... guess what I am curious about is the places where you use the bolts to screw INTO an edge piece.. how did you tap them so they would hold good? on the adjustment blocks, it goes clean through with a nut on the back.. no problem, but that is not true for the edge pieces.. worried about stripping them out.

    Eddie



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    ESMILLER,

    I note your concern using a tap to hold bolts on the edge of MDF. It was a big issue with me at first to but just did it and it's working out. Just don't tighten the bolts down really tight. Once you have everything lined up you can use some CA (super glue) or wood glue in the holes and wood edges for a final fit if you want. I did use blind nuts in a couple of locations but not at the edges. See photo of my machine for example of blind nuts.

    Just use your best judgement and secure as needed. Drywall screws will work but pre-drill before attempting.

    Steve

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Free Router plans! and Discuss it here.-cnc2-jpg  


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    Oh, one more thing!

    When tapping the hole use a small drill or cordless screwdriver with low power and take your time so you don't strip the holes.



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    Quote Originally Posted by stevec
    ESMILLER,

    I note your concern using a tap to hold bolts on the edge of MDF. It was a big issue with me at first to but just did it and it's working out. Just don't tighten the bolts down really tight. Once you have everything lined up you can use some CA (super glue) or wood glue in the holes and wood edges for a final fit if you want. I did use blind nuts in a couple of locations but not at the edges. See photo of my machine for example of blind nuts.

    Just use your best judgement and secure as needed. Drywall screws will work but pre-drill before attempting.

    Steve
    Okay, thanks for the advice.. guess as soon as I buy my new shop vac tonight, i will get back to work cutting the MDF for this.. my old one burnt out due to no filter to contain the fine dust the MDF created.. old vaccuum, so now i have an excuse to buy a newer, quieter one .. LOL

    BTW.. do you notice any flex in your system? concerned about flex at the center of travel on the longest axis...

    Eddie



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    Do you mean flex in the MDF, I so No. The base and cutting support grid as jgro's plans show eliminate this.

    Steve



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    Quote Originally Posted by stevec
    Do you mean flex in the MDF, I so No. The base and cutting support grid as jgro's plans show eliminate this.

    Steve
    Not sure.. thought i saw something on his website saying he had had flex in it before he built it smaller.. maybe I misunderstood it ...

    Eddie



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    JGRO (and anybody else who has comments)

    That's a very cool setup. I'm looking at building a CNC router that I can use to cut out various shapes made from a wood like maple, say up to 2" thick. The shapes are irregular curved forms....drawn in AutoCAD. My maximum size would be about 14" x 24"..maybe a little longer. Given the material (maple, fairly hard) and thickness, do you think a machine like yours would perform the job well? Seems to me it would, taking reasonable cut depth per pass of course. Again, great build! I think I'm hooked on this site........



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    Default I'm building the MDF Router

    I'm building the router from your free plans. I made mine 10" wider, but other than that I'm following the plans pretty close. can't find the shoulder bushings so I am going to improvise. I currently have the base and the gantry done. I's looking pretty good. Kraig



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    cwoodall,

    It should perform well cutting hard wood. I only cut MDF with mine, but if you start with a smaller depth of cut and work deeper as you get more experience with it. I was cutting MDF at .125/pass with a 1/4" endmill no problem at 30 ipm.

    Kraig1,

    Keep us posted on your progress

    jgro



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    Jgro and others who've built from these plans:

    Could someone post a run-down of the process used to adjust the machine? Kind of a sequence of events that seems to work well to get the rails, etc dialed in. I'm finished with the base and gantry thus far (there's a thread in the build log) and did a little playing around with the gantry and the 1" pipes. As soon as I get a straight piece to replace the bowed one I have, I'll be set!

    Thanks Much!



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    Take a 4 blocks of wood that are cut to the same height and place these under the rails. Use a large carpenter square and set one of the rails square to the base. Next cut 2 pieces of wood that can be used as spacers to place between the two rails to keep them parallel. Check with your square to make sure that the second rail is square to the base when you are done. That should get your rails close. You may need to adjust one of them later to get them to mate up with the bearings on the gantry. To set the gantry, this is what I did. There are 4 drilled and tapped holes in the bottom piece of the gantry shown on the drawings. These are for jack screws. Set the bearings up as I showed in post #66 of this thread. That is your starting point. Next set the gantry into position as close as you can, adjust one of the rails if needed and screw some bolts into the jack screw holes. Screw the jack screws down until they just touch the base. Loosen all of the bearing bolts. Measure from side to side to make sure the gantry is set into the center of the machine. Next place a level or something that you know to be straight and stiff across the pipes behind the gantry and measure from the level to the bottom of the gantry. Adjust the jack screws until both sides read the same. Do the same thing for the front of the gantry. Once all the measurements are the same, take 2 wood screws and screw the gantry down tight to the base. Now you can tighten the bearing bolts. I used a Vise Grip C-clamp to clamp the bearings tight to the pipe and preload the bearings. I hope this all makes sense.

    jgro



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    My wealest area is in the electronics area, but I have the basic gist of it. I looked at the HobbyCNC 3-axis unipolar driver and the Xylotex 4-axis unipolar driver. I'm building a 3-axis machine for now. Two questions....can I go with the Xylotex driver to enable future expansion, and someone straighten me out on unipolar and bipolar drivers. Thanks.

    Curtis



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    Yes, you can go with the 4 axis driver, and only use one axis,,,, Although I would pull the jumper that is on the board to disable the unused axis, My take on unipolar and bipolar is that in a unipolar system, the coils in the motor are switched on and off,,,, whereas the bipolar system switches the polarity of the current back and forth,,,,



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    Hi:
    I don't mean to hijack the thread I just have a quick question for jgro.
    Dtl 23 & 24 the anti-whip block and spacer, from what I understand the block mounts with the "rod trough" facing up and the spacer is under the block, if this is the case how come you made the block and spacer in two pieces? if this is not the case could you help me understand how to mount these pieces.

    Great plans by the way
    fantastic job.
    Jim



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    jgro,

    Thanks for the tips on dialing in the router. I was on the right track, but sort of backwards, if that makes any sense at all. Boy am I glad I put those jack screw holes in the gantry base! They could have easily become a corner I cut , but that little voice in my head told me they're for a reason...

    Thanks again, more progress tomorrow, I hope...



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    jmc,

    I believe I made them in 2 pieces because I had a piece of leftover delrin from making the anti-backlash nut and it wasn't tall enough. So I added another piece underneath it.

    jgro



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    JRGO --

    Question.. on your website you mentioned some flex in your router.. was that in this version, or an older version..?

    Eddie



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    BTW.. GREAT plans!

    Got most of the wood cut, and waiting on funds to afford the pipes to start assembling the initial stages... Also helping me to get practice with cutting and using power tools.. been YEARS since i have done anything useful in the shop, so I am grateful for the practice *GRIN*

    Eddie



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