Diary of a FoamCutter building a jgro router table


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    Default Diary of a FoamCutter building a jgro router table

    Well here I am, bitten by the CNC bug. First its a CNC Foamcutter, now a Router. Besides cutting wings, I've had equal fun cutting foam art. See the example below.

    First off, a big thanks to jgro for the most excellent plans. Its been said by many folks in this forum, and I'll repeat it again. Wow, the plans are great, easy to understand, read, and simple to build.

    I started with the two base assemblies. They went together easy, cutting the components with the table saw. The two subassemblies are glued but not nailed. I'm likely to use drywall screws instead of nails. Is that ok, or should I just use nails?

    Not much to see yet. I'll make some progress in the evenings this week. But I have only Monday thru Friday to work on it, then a two week break, as I'll be travelling for work.

    Me and a co-worker (John Miller) got the CNC router bug while discussing CNC topics at the coffee pot. Its entirely Johns fault that I'm building this table. John is also building a jgro. I'm hoping that John will show us his progress as well. By the way, John is a far better craftsman then I, so we can expect a higher grade of work from him.

    Wish me luck.
    Dave

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Diary of a FoamCutter building a jgro router table-dsc06585-jpg   Diary of a FoamCutter building a jgro router table-jon-stones-trophy-jpg  


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    Hey Dave, I recognize you from RCSE. I've caught the bug with this CNC router stuff, too. What are your plans to use the router for...DLG wings ala the Encore? Or bigger stuff?

    Mike



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    Default Jon's not here

    Mike,
    Jon Stone is a fellow NASF club member. As you know, a great guy. I cut that foam trophy for him and will present it to him on Tuesday. So, if you see him on RCSE, please don't tell him about my creation. Too many Jons/Johns in this world. Too many Daves also.

    Its a small world!
    take care,
    Dave

    Quote Originally Posted by mcyr View Post
    Hey Dave, I've caught the bug with this CNC router stuff, too. What are your plans to use the router for...DLG wings ala the Encore? Or bigger stuff?

    Mike




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    Mike,
    I'm planning to cut and bag a 3 meter. I'll probably use the Supra airfoils and planform. Then, add a big carbon spar and bag it. Too bad though, this CNC router project is putting a big delay into those build plans. I've also cut a couple DLG wings for a buddy, but the 3 meter is my next big build project. If, that is, I can clear my head of this CNC router bug. (not likely to happen).
    Dave

    Quote Originally Posted by mcyr View Post
    Hey Dave, I recognize you from RCSE. I've caught the bug with this CNC router stuff, too. What are your plans to use the router for...DLG wings ala the Encore? Or bigger stuff?

    Mike




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    Quote Originally Posted by GliderGider
    I'm likely to use drywall screws instead of nails. Is that ok, or should I just use nails?
    Screws, nails, brads, paneling nails, doesn't matter, just test whatever you're going to use on a few scrap pieces of 1/2" and 3/4" MDF to make sure that it's not going to split. Don't forget to predrill holes for the fasteners to reduce the chance of splitting the MDF. The only problem with using screws and nails is that they have a bigger head which means you'll have a better chance of hitting them with another fastener when you attach subsequent assemblies/pieces.

    Watch when you measure and drill the Gantry Front (CNC_DTL20). The three vertically aligned holes on the left and right sides should be spaced at 0.375", 1.438", and 2.500" to match the bolt and dowel pin holes in the Gantry - Left Side (CNC_DTL16) and Gantry - Right Side (CNC_DTL17).

    Another thing, I just switched my X-axis and Y-axis leadscrews from 1/4"-20 allthread to 1/2"-10 ACME screws, 1/2"-10 ACME nuts, and DumpsterCNC A/B nuts, what a difference it makes. You wouldn't believe how much faster, smoother, and quieter the JGRO table runs after switching from the 1/4"-20 allthread. If I would have known that to start with I would have made the modifications for the larger ACME threaded rod and skipped the alltread altogether. Some modifications to the design must be made to accomodate the larger diameter thread, bearings and dumpster nuts. Just my 2 cents if your interested.

    You've made excellent progress, so far. Keep up the good work.


    L8r,

    HayTay

    Don't be the one that stands in the way of your success!


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    Hi HayTay
    Thanks for the tips. I'm amazed how cheep the 1/2" acme hardware costs. I'll be making that modification for sure. Also, I will be predrilling the holes before any fastener gets attached. Thats good info. I appreciate the heads up about the dimension changes.
    Dave



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    Well Dave, you are making great progress. I have purchased some MDF but that is all. Because my garage is not heated and there is a woodworking show in Atlanta this weekend, I will not make any progress for awhile.
    I sure agree with the comments from "HayTay". Pre-drill all fastener holes and the 1/2/10 Acme threaded rod are the way to go. We'll get these built someday. Keep up the good work. John



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    Hi Dave,

    I'll be watching your progress on this thread. I'm thinking about building a cnc router myself for the purpose of routing elliptical planforms with transitioning Drela airfoils that would be impossible with wire cutting. I'm most interested in DLG's and Sp400's so a smallish router might do the trick.

    So many projects, so little time! Good luck with you build.

    Mike



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    Mike,
    I've always wondered how a CNC router would finish the bottom of a wing? See the attached picture. The top is no problem, there's no easy way to finish the bottom. What would you do? You can't turn a complex airfoil on

    Now if I were cutting a foil for a mold, then no problem, because you would cut a top, the cut a separate bottom.
    Dave

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Diary of a FoamCutter building a jgro router table-a1106653-11-smoothwing-jpg   Diary of a FoamCutter building a jgro router table-a1106652-62-machine_01-jpg  


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    If the problem is laying the wing flat when you turn it over, can't you cut a "mold" to lay it in? It should be easy to invert the code used to cut the airfoil. Don't know how you'd do it with a wire, but this may be just one more reason you need to build the router.



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    EDO,
    Heres a German group that cuts their cores with a router. They cut both the top and bottom half side, by side. Then the wirecut each foil at the parting plane, glue them together, and waaahhla, they have a wing.

    Actually they go further and vacuum bag these wings in a mold.

    http://www.delago.de/ariane/ETechnik.htm
    and
    http://www.delago.de/ariane/EStyro.htm

    Interesting.
    Dave



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    Hey John,
    The bearings arrived.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Diary of a FoamCutter building a jgro router table-dsc06587-jpg  


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    Lucky you, would you believe i ordered bearing since late November and have not gotten them as yet , i don't know, maybe got lost in postal, had to order a new set, usually take two to three weeks to get them, still waiting........



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    Quote Originally Posted by Glidergider View Post
    Mike,
    I've always wondered how a CNC router would finish the bottom of a wing? See the attached picture. The top is no problem, there's no easy way to finish the bottom. What would you do? You can't turn a complex airfoil on

    Now if I were cutting a foil for a mold, then no problem, because you would cut a top, the cut a separate bottom.
    Dave
    Dave,

    Great question. I've only given it a little thought and all I can come up with is about the same as you suggest: Route the top and bottom separately with a lip around the edges. The lip could be used for alignment before gluing, then cut off??? I guess since the two would be mated together it might be a good time to put some spar material in. This might be good for DLG wings if it doesn't add too much weight. Do you think the material would become too thin routing this way that it wouldn't be feasible? Might be a particular problem with Drela et al foils.

    Another option would be to use a 4-axis machine so that you route both sides (not a perfect solution either I realize). Biggest drawback of this is I haven't got a clue how you'd keep the piece stationary enough.

    Mike



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    GliderGider,

    How did you make out with Sporqster's JGRO router plans modeled in CATIA format? Did they open OK for you?

    HayTay

    Don't be the one that stands in the way of your success!


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    Hi HayTay,
    Yes, the Catia files opened perfectly. Full 3D solids with all the trimmings. Very nicely done. Thanks for the link. I had John Miller in my cube and we were zooming around looking at the details. Most of it we already knew, until we closed in on the back of the long axis bearing mount. It turns out that on the back side of that mount, there is a MDF block, which appears to be an adjustment feature or just a structural backup block. Its detail 21. Its also shown on assy07.

    Can you shed some light on its purpose?

    Thanks again for the link.
    Dave



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    Quote Originally Posted by Glidergider View Post
    ...until we closed in on the back of the long axis bearing mount. It turns out that on the back side of that mount, there is a MDF block, which appears to be an adjustment feature or just a structural backup block. Its detail 21. Its also shown on assy07.

    Can you shed some light on its purpose?
    Are you sure you got the drawing number correct. According to my PDF plans CNC_dtl21 is a GANTRY - CORNER BLOCK. Are you talking about the ANTI - WHIP BLOCK SPACER (cnc_dtl24) and the corresponding ANTI - WHIP BLOCK (cnc_dtl23)? If you are, then the purpose is to help keep the long axis leadscrew (1/4"-20 x 43.50") from 'whipping' around like a jumprope while moving. This is apparent at higher feed rates (motor RPM) and the farther you get from the drive motor. The sound is horrible and results in reduced accuracy and repeatability. The A-W Block Spacer also seems to help stabilize the gantry a bit.

    If you used 3/4" Delrin/HDPE for the ANTI - WHIP BLOCK (cnc_dtl23) you wouldn't need the A-W Block Spacer (cnc_dtl24). If you're converting to a larger ACME leadscrew the A-W Block is one of the parts that requires modification.

    HayTay

    Don't be the one that stands in the way of your success!


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    HayTay,
    I was talking about the corner block that I saw in the fly thru. Still, thanks for the info about the AW block, thats good stuff.

    It was the corner block that I'm wondering about. I'm wondering, is it for structure or adjustments or both?
    Dave



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    Quote Originally Posted by Glidergider
    It was the corner block that I'm wondering about. I'm wondering, is it for structure or adjustments or both?
    Dave
    The GANTRY - CORNER BLOCK (cnc_dtl21) is primarily for structural support. It's used to connect the GANTRY - BOTTOM (cnc_dtl18) to the GANTRY - LEFT SIDE (cnc_dtl16) and GANTRY - RIGHT SIDE (cnc_dtl17). It also helps to 'stiffen up' the area where the bearing slides mount so that they better withstand the racking motion of the gantry. There may be other reasons. I'll leave those to JGRO or a mechanical engineer to explain (please).

    Most of the adjustments to the machine are made to the rails via the ADJUSTMENT BLOCKS - LARGE & SMALL (cnc_dtl07 & cnc_dtl13).

    Any more progress, or are you currently in the 'hunting and gathering' phase?

    HayTay

    Don't be the one that stands in the way of your success!


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    Regarding my progress. Nothing this week because of various life activities. My Daughter had a High School Basketball game, I had a Sailplane Club meeting, then a Volleyball tournament last night, but tonight, I should be cutting timber.



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Diary of a FoamCutter building a jgro router table

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