Reply with QuoteHi Steve
How did you line-bore the bearings? With the axis vertical, in a mill large enough to span the height of the job pluss the length of the tool, pluss clearance?
Hi Steve
How did you line-bore the bearings? With the axis vertical, in a mill large enough to span the height of the job pluss the length of the tool, pluss clearance?
Last edited by dynosor; 07-05-2010 at 12:20 AM.
Red to red and black to black, or it's ashes to ashes and dust to dust.
I used a boring bar. The bore is 4.935 thru the block so i let 5.250 of bar hang out of the boring head. The travel on Z is only 5 inches so I would bore 4.800 deep then raise the knee until it broke thru and then lower the knee and back out. Was a bit of a pain but that is all i have to work with.Originally Posted by dynosor
Steve,
How are you going to machine the crankshaft?
Your work is totally awesome.
Jeff...
Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish.
Thank you!!
The crank will be alot like this one i made for a V4 only a little longer. It will be turned on the lathe and alot of work will be done on the milling machine also.
Steve,
What alloy did you make the block out of? It looks like 6061. The machining seems very cleanly cut, suggesting it is not like the gummy 6061 one often gets from common material suppliers.
Are you going to run the crank in removable bearing shells, or directly in the block?
What material, hardness and finishing method will you use for the crankshaft?
Do you drill oiling channels in the crank and or block, or will this engine run on a 2-stoke fuel oil mix?
Thanks for sharing!
Red to red and black to black, or it's ashes to ashes and dust to dust.
The block is 6061-T6. I make everything from 6061.
The crank will have 3 shell bearings in the center and ball bearings on the ends.
I will turn the crankshaft from a bar of 0-1 tool steel (drill rod). The main and rod journals will be polished with some 1000 grit paper. No hardening.
The lower end is oiled using a splash system like a Briggs Stratton engine. Every now and again the valve covers will need to be removed to lobe the rockers and lifters.
Not ideal but the goal was to make it easier to build for someone with small machines and limited skills. Everybody seems to want to build a V8 but the choice of plans is very limited and some are very complex. This one will be about a simple as it gets.
I think for now the block is done. I still need to drill the hole for the distributor but i'm going to wait and drill thru the manifold and block at the same time. It just hit me how small this thing is.
Steve,
How many hours do you have invested so far?
Jeff...
Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish.
I don't keep track. If I had to guess it would be 20-30?
Where are you with plans for sale?
Hercules
2008 TM-1, 2008 TL-3, 2009 TL-1, 2010 VF-2YT
Here is the easy way to do it..!!
)
I would guess 6 month away. I really need to build this thing 100% before I offer anything to somebody else. I have already made a change to the head that would have been useless otherwise. When I am reasonably sure the plans are sound, I'll try to get some good drawings together.
Easier, but not cheaper.
I have been playing around and I think I will try to reproduce the Engine on http://www.weberprecision.com/. I have modeled the pistons, rods and working on the block. I am just designing as I go so we will see how it works out.
What size bore and stroke are you going to make it? Will it be big like the original weber?
Right now looking at a 1" bore 1" stroke giving me 6.28ci or 102.9cc.
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